Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wanted to share the recent dyno results on my car. 20lbs of boost on pump gas. Pulled the fuse on the AWD so it was only rear wheels on the dyno. It made 484 hp at the wheels. I asked the tuner to see if we could do something so it breaks the 500hp level, but he said that we were maxxed out on pump gas. If i wanted to make more power, id have to go to E85. 

 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.6cb63829bbb8c53febb80b71ae1ce2c5.jpeg

  • Like 1

Still fast enough to have fun (kinda).

Time for a modern turbo with a divided turbine housing and a proper twin scroll manifold.

I think 400-450kW is a great place to be, provided it's all in before 4500 rpm.

1 hour ago, kevboost7 said:

i'm not at 600 though 😢 its 484hp (356kw) at the wheels.. 

Yeah, whenever I say "HP", I mean HP. As in, at the engine. Allowing for a 25% discount from engine to typical Ozzie braked roller dyno figures, then subtracting the usual (more optimistic) US inertia dyno offset..... you get into the 600 actual engine HP territory from your 484 wheel number.

484 / 0.75 = 645   (that's Aussie rw intertia HP, converting to approximate engine HP.

645 --> 600 is discount for inertia dyno. Could actually be worse than that. But that would still be up around 600. So near enough for purposes.

What turbos are on it? 356 American KW is possibly the best place to be if you want to use the car. Close the internet and hit up a twisty road and ignore all other opinions and see whether you have fun driving the car around.

Car would be very knock limited on pump 98 fuel, this is also why lots of old school turbos has such a massive turbine end to drive a small compressor.  Overall a decent result for pump fuel, 

  • Like 2
10 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah, whenever I say "HP", I mean HP. As in, at the engine. Allowing for a 25% discount from engine to typical Ozzie braked roller dyno figures, then subtracting the usual (more optimistic) US inertia dyno offset..... you get into the 600 actual engine HP territory from your 484 wheel number.

484 / 0.75 = 645   (that's Aussie rw intertia HP, converting to approximate engine HP.

645 --> 600 is discount for inertia dyno. Could actually be worse than that. But that would still be up around 600. So near enough for purposes.

Nice, i like the sound of 600. 

8 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

What turbos are on it? 356 American KW is possibly the best place to be if you want to use the car. Close the internet and hit up a twisty road and ignore all other opinions and see whether you have fun driving the car around.

I have GT2860R. I'm not sure if they are -5 or -7. Do you know? These are the exact ones. 

https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/garrett-rb26dett-gruppe-n-turbo-upgrade.html?srsltid=AfmBOopSCzHaDtf7nggL6R8KrD8RJP4wxBJitmkRmswmv2SaEbAVcxTe

And to be honest, i think the car was the most enjoyable to drive on the streets when it was 280hp (205kw). I could enjoy all the revs to redline i wouldn't be going crazy fast, but just fast enough to know that you are working the car.

 

Those would be the infamous -5 Turbos.

They're okay, 20psi on them on 93/98 is right on par with what everyone else can sort of flow for those, irrespective of what the output on the dyno shows. There's probably plenty of results in the RB26 thread with -5's and various levels of mods on petrol/gas to sort of compare it to.

They aren't as popular a choice now, and kinda weren't then as they're large, oldschool things, and twins never got the same kind of RND development that singles got which is what Dose is alluding to by telling you to put something modern on.

Just call it period correct and enjoy the rest of the car not blowing itself to pieces (which can, and will happen once you really get obsessed with power numbers).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...