Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wanted to share the recent dyno results on my car. 20lbs of boost on pump gas. Pulled the fuse on the AWD so it was only rear wheels on the dyno. It made 484 hp at the wheels. I asked the tuner to see if we could do something so it breaks the 500hp level, but he said that we were maxxed out on pump gas. If i wanted to make more power, id have to go to E85. 

 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.6cb63829bbb8c53febb80b71ae1ce2c5.jpeg

  • Like 1

Still fast enough to have fun (kinda).

Time for a modern turbo with a divided turbine housing and a proper twin scroll manifold.

I think 400-450kW is a great place to be, provided it's all in before 4500 rpm.

1 hour ago, kevboost7 said:

i'm not at 600 though 😢 its 484hp (356kw) at the wheels.. 

Yeah, whenever I say "HP", I mean HP. As in, at the engine. Allowing for a 25% discount from engine to typical Ozzie braked roller dyno figures, then subtracting the usual (more optimistic) US inertia dyno offset..... you get into the 600 actual engine HP territory from your 484 wheel number.

484 / 0.75 = 645   (that's Aussie rw intertia HP, converting to approximate engine HP.

645 --> 600 is discount for inertia dyno. Could actually be worse than that. But that would still be up around 600. So near enough for purposes.

What turbos are on it? 356 American KW is possibly the best place to be if you want to use the car. Close the internet and hit up a twisty road and ignore all other opinions and see whether you have fun driving the car around.

Car would be very knock limited on pump 98 fuel, this is also why lots of old school turbos has such a massive turbine end to drive a small compressor.  Overall a decent result for pump fuel, 

  • Like 2
10 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah, whenever I say "HP", I mean HP. As in, at the engine. Allowing for a 25% discount from engine to typical Ozzie braked roller dyno figures, then subtracting the usual (more optimistic) US inertia dyno offset..... you get into the 600 actual engine HP territory from your 484 wheel number.

484 / 0.75 = 645   (that's Aussie rw intertia HP, converting to approximate engine HP.

645 --> 600 is discount for inertia dyno. Could actually be worse than that. But that would still be up around 600. So near enough for purposes.

Nice, i like the sound of 600. 

8 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

What turbos are on it? 356 American KW is possibly the best place to be if you want to use the car. Close the internet and hit up a twisty road and ignore all other opinions and see whether you have fun driving the car around.

I have GT2860R. I'm not sure if they are -5 or -7. Do you know? These are the exact ones. 

https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/garrett-rb26dett-gruppe-n-turbo-upgrade.html?srsltid=AfmBOopSCzHaDtf7nggL6R8KrD8RJP4wxBJitmkRmswmv2SaEbAVcxTe

And to be honest, i think the car was the most enjoyable to drive on the streets when it was 280hp (205kw). I could enjoy all the revs to redline i wouldn't be going crazy fast, but just fast enough to know that you are working the car.

 

Those would be the infamous -5 Turbos.

They're okay, 20psi on them on 93/98 is right on par with what everyone else can sort of flow for those, irrespective of what the output on the dyno shows. There's probably plenty of results in the RB26 thread with -5's and various levels of mods on petrol/gas to sort of compare it to.

They aren't as popular a choice now, and kinda weren't then as they're large, oldschool things, and twins never got the same kind of RND development that singles got which is what Dose is alluding to by telling you to put something modern on.

Just call it period correct and enjoy the rest of the car not blowing itself to pieces (which can, and will happen once you really get obsessed with power numbers).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...