Jump to content
SAU Community

Diff Rebuild or get a mech?

fane

By fane,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

sorry, I should have said I think that only applies to 1 way diffs since they only lock under acceleration. 2 way could be a bit tricker since deceleration locks its as well.

but, you most likely only want a 1 way diff anyway, locking under brakes just gives you more understeer :)

BTW I agree with magic1, its the best mod I ever did, the extra drive out of corners was amazing :(

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

Ok... so for mech diff we know kazaa is an alternative to cusco or nismo...

Ok, back to the topic in the first page, if the stock diff is rebuild, will it still be viscous or can it be transformed into some kind of quieter mech diff?

E.g. just replacing the diff centre?

Grey skys Enthusiast

Grey skys

Posted
Posted

I have a Nismo mech diff in my car and I have no problems with it at all. It is only really noisey for about the first few mins but after that it is fine, even in the tight Mandurah forum carparks. Tire wear isn't a problem either' I have had the same tires for 20 months with the same tread on the front and the rear.

cheers Jon

  • 5 months later...
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I've driven an R32 running a Nismo 2way (new model).

The only clunking I heard was when reversing slowly out of the driveway on the turns.

Once up and rolling and decelerating around corners as per normal there was no clunking.

Around round-abouts I could hear the inside wheel grating.

No doubt that would have to increase tyre wear slightly. :(

I wouldn't worry about a Nismo diff clunking. Others if they are worse.. maybe.

Personally I would look at a 1way for a street car.

1.5way for a street/track car.

2way for a drift.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...