Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, so I know (i think) that the AFM gives an output of between 0 and 5 volts, 5 volts being at the max of its range ... looking at the stats from my consult port logging, I can see that the afm is VERY close to the 5v mark on quite a few occasions ... 4.90 being the top end so far - my injector pulse width being in the 15-17.5ms mark and a duty of between 60 and 85%

so the question is this : What needs upgrading first

fuel pump ?

injectors ?

afm ?

any thoughts anyone ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50002-afm-max-values/
Share on other sites

ok, so I know (i think) that the AFM gives an output of between 0 and 5 volts, 5 volts being at the max of its range ... looking at the stats from my consult port logging, I can see that the afm is VERY close to the 5v mark on quite a few occasions ... 4.90 being the top end so far - my injector pulse width being in the 15-17.5ms mark and a duty of between 60 and 85%  

so the question is this : What needs upgrading first  

fuel pump ?

injectors ?

afm ?

any thoughts anyone ?

How many rwkw?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50002-afm-max-values/#findComment-996947
Share on other sites

i have no idea how many rwkw it has now, or what i want to get

to be honest i'm not really interested in looking at what the numbers are, i am more interested in driving it bloody fast (on a private track of course) and also being drivable on a day to day basis - not to be spitting flames at every gear change.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50002-afm-max-values/#findComment-997552
Share on other sites

i have no idea how many rwkw it has now, or what i want to get

Sorry I can't really help you then. All the components for upgrading are rated and, based on a large number of cars, I have a rule of thumb wherebye I can tell what part is capable of what power. It is pretty stupid to have a 400 rwkw capable fuel pump, 300 rwkw capable injectors and only a 250 rwkw capable turbo. Stupid = wastes time and money and is limited by the weakest link.

i am more interested in driving it bloody fast

To many people a 200 rwkw Skyline is "bloody fast". Others need 400 rwkw to get any jollies at all. Some think anything less than 1,000 bhp is plain whimpy.

I have a personal preference for 2wd drive Skylines to have around 250-270 rwkw, that's enough for a high 11 at ~200 kph. Over that and they get a bit cranky in traffic, tricky in the rain and you get a pretty poor return for your money (lots of $'s per kw). For 4wd Skylines, add another 50 rwkw or so, as the wheelspin problem is covered.

Hope that helps :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50002-afm-max-values/#findComment-997684
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Tang0 : Mine goes as high as 4.96, with 80% duty (mods exhuast, filter stock boost control).

I have major hesitation issues from 5 to 7k RPM. I think the solution maybe AFM or piggy back with Z32 AFM. I sent you a PM

SydneyKid : Do you know what sort of rwkw you would reach where you would be maxing out the stock R33 AFM? I though it was in the 200kw range, but I would be suprised if mine pulled much more than 150kw atw with only exhaust and filter and stockish boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50002-afm-max-values/#findComment-1013290
Share on other sites

SydneyKid : Do you know what sort of rwkw you would reach where you would be maxing out the stock R33 AFM? I though it was in the 200kw range, but I would be suprised if mine pulled much more than 150kw atw with only exhaust and filter and stockish boost.

Hmmmm, an unusual combination. If the numbers are all as you say, I suspect something is wrong. I haven't seen a R33 GTST go that high in AFM voltage until over 200 rwkw. Maybe try cleaning the AFM (brake clean is the go as it has no residue) and checking it's connector. Then check the voltage with a multimeter, as a few spots in the rpm range, that might help narrow it down. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50002-afm-max-values/#findComment-1013556
Share on other sites

It's about 1.1V at idle. Should it be lower?

You may need to re-ground the MAF. I've heard of this problem cropping up a number of times of GTI-R SR20s. Adding another gounding point to the MAF should help. You will need to identify which wire is the negative earth and then CAREFULLY solder another wire to where it fits on the AFM, then ground the other end to a good ground place on the chassis.

HTH.

Richard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50002-afm-max-values/#findComment-1013736
Share on other sites

The ground to the AFM is switched off the ECCS relay, and connected to the CAS sensor and the ECU on multiple pins. I am unsure what other things may be affected by wiring another ground in parallel. Personally I would want to disconect the existing ground first. See atached schematic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50002-afm-max-values/#findComment-1014651
Share on other sites

well, hopefully this can now be solved, I have ordered a PFC from nengun, and am awaiting its arrival ...

I don't have the consult plugged in at the moment as was fed up with it sliding around behind the gearstick ... will plug it up at the weekend and see if I can get some logs off it ....

now to read up about the pfc ..

gah

so much to do

so little time

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50002-afm-max-values/#findComment-1014737
Share on other sites

Hey guys did the re-grounding work ?

I haven't done it yet, but the problem is shitting me off to the max.

I have 1100mv on the powerFC at idle (700rpm) and at 2000rpm in 5th gear on flat highway, its at 2500mv - 2700mv

****en big cough at around 6500rpm gearchange if changed hard..

this is what I am gonig to do, find the earth, chop it off the AFM and wrap it up, and then solder a new earth onto the AFM and ground it somewhere on the motor or the chassis.

Anyone know a good spot?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50002-afm-max-values/#findComment-1019423
Share on other sites

My AFM goes the the max value on the data consult port display all the time when i get up it (5.11). It also says my injectors are in theory going up to 125% duty cycle.

Car is R32 GTS-T with around the 200rwkw mark. On dyno it shows there is still plenty of fuel. Sydneykid you have seen my dyno graph. Any idea on all of this. Car runs great.

Regards,

Scott

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50002-afm-max-values/#findComment-1022637
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...