Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Awesome.. gotta be happy especially on street tyres. Dunno how much diff the RS turbos are compared to 2540's... but a GTR R33 in Melbourne with similar mods to you runs 10.8's on semi slicks.. I think your turbos push more power than 2540's so it's obvious you have even more room to improve. Well done mark.

Posted by two.06l  

those gtrs turbos are sh1t arent they   :jk:

Posted by markr34gtr

yeh they have nothing.... too laggy bad power curve etc......

Let's not get too cheeky fellas... :(

Mark has the power on board to achieve what he has, no one denied that.

The comments on the other thread were, re:GTRS vs 2530s

So far, there is nothing to indicate the superiority of one over the other, on a straight line.

:P

Guest two.06l
yeh they have nothing.... too laggy bad power curve etc......

we shall see.....

thanks..... :)

It makes it all so much sweeter when you prove all those knockers and doubters wrong. Wont be long till you need that andra tech inspection and cage. All the best mate.

Guest two.06l
Let's not get too cheeky fellas... :rant:  

Mark has the power on board to achieve what he has, no one denied that.

The comments on the other thread were, re:GTRS vs 2530s

So far, there is nothing to indicate the superiority of one over the other, on a straight line.

:)

Noting like having a wet sock to rain on your parade mark. We have 2530s and will be upgrading to the newer technology(2530 design is now 13 yrs old).We will then prove it for all, as the combination will remain unchanged except for the turbos,and by the way im a girl not a fella.

  • 3 weeks later...

ran 11.07 at 119 mph at jambo against squizz to just get the win.. good racing ...

good news is i was on the limiter 50 mtrs before the line in 4th gear...oops...

my new federal 275-40-17s tyres were hooking up great all day 1.64 best 60ft......

was a great few days at jambo...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...