Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep increase in torque, also..

Viscous to Helical LSD

Different front bar

Two tone colour steering wheel and gear knob

Aluminum pedals

Darker rims (more GTR colour)

And i think that's about, altho i always forget something when i list the differences :D

cheers.

  • 1 month later...

The Series II’s also have a different turbo, Garret with metal compressor and steel turbine. Boost is set at about 900kpa and I believe the ECU is different as well.

Instruments have silver faces that light up orange, oil press and boost read in kpa vice kg/cm.

Center console is painted a bronze color and has the same radio options as the later GT-R. Shift boot is different and the shifter has about 10% shorter throws.

A good upgrade for Series I GT-t’s is to put a Series II shifter in as it is almost identical to the NISMO one and costs less.

Also the cover for the three gauges in the center has a better finish on it, more like the rest of the dash as does the center vent assy with the hazard button.

The power mirror controls are different as well. And the glove box does not lock.

  • 3 weeks later...
The Series II’s also have a different turbo, Garret with metal compressor and steel turbine. Boost is set at about 900kpa and I believe the ECU is different as well.  

Instruments have silver faces that light up orange, oil press and boost read in kpa vice kg/cm.

Center console is painted a bronze color and has the same radio options as the later GT-R. Shift boot is different and the shifter has about 10% shorter throws.

A good upgrade for Series I GT-t’s is to put a Series II shifter in as it is almost identical to the NISMO one and costs less.

Also the cover for the three gauges in the center has a better finish on it, more like the rest of the dash as does the center vent assy with the hazard button.

The power mirror controls are different as well. And the glove box does not lock.

ummmm

isn't 900kpa like 9bar?? that isn't right,,

on mine , car boosts up till 0.75-0.8 bar approx (10-11psi) (car is stock standard),,

also found out i "used" to have fog lights!!!! but they were removed because a c-west front bar was fitted in japan,!!! doh!!!!

also!!! there was a factory option of "cup holders" at the rear of the center console!! under the ash tray,,,

i don't have an ash tray or cup holders,,, just a plastic cover,, for both... hehe,,,

is ur engine bay bayside blue or is it a really dark navy blue (almost black)??, mine is painted the dark colour, ( so is demon dave's r34) ,, i can't see y nissan didn't just paint the engine bay blue,,,

still,,,,,,, Bayside Blue rules,, :D

Afro

ummmm  

isn't 900kpa like 9bar??  that isn't right,,

on mine , car boosts up till 0.75-0.8 bar approx (10-11psi)  (car is stock standard),,

also found out i "used" to have fog lights!!!!  but they were removed because a c-west front bar was fitted in japan,!!!  doh!!!!

also!!! there was a factory option of "cup holders"  at the rear of the center console!! under the ash tray,,,

i don't have an ash tray or cup holders,,, just a plastic cover,, for both... hehe,,,

is ur engine bay  bayside blue or is it a really dark navy blue (almost black)??,  mine is painted the dark colour, ( so is demon dave's r34) ,, i can't see y nissan didn't just paint the engine bay blue,,,  

still,,,,,,, Bayside Blue rules,, :)    

Afro

Sorry about that I meant 90kPa .......extra zero in there.

My engine bay is dark blue/black. I think the 2001 cars got body-color engine bays.

Funny thing is all the white, yellow and red cars I have seen have body-color engine bays, but the silver and light colored cars had the light grey engine bays regardless of year.

ya its really annoying having the dark coloured engine bay,, you wouldn't believe how many times i've had to say "the car was NOT black before!, the engine bay is Meant to be black!"

lots of people think that the car has been re-sprayed blue....

have u compared ur car against a series I?? is there any difference in performance? (acceleration/power etc etc)?

ya its really annoying having the dark coloured engine bay,, you wouldn't believe how many times i've had to say "the car was NOT black before!, the engine bay is Meant to be black!"  

lots of people think that the car has been re-sprayed blue....

have u compared ur car against a series I??  is there any difference in performance? (acceleration/power etc etc)?

Not many R34 GT-t's (only 3 I think) on Okinawa so I have not had a chance to "compare" mine against any others.

  • 4 months later...
Not many R34 GT-t's (only 3 I think) on Okinawa so I have not had a chance to "compare" mine against any others.

hey eharrald

can u confirm that the series II r34 has the metal compressor wheel??

is there a way of telling from the outside of the turbo???

do you know if there is a different clutch kit used from the series I??,,, since there is more torque in the series II (i know 20Nm isn't much,, but still u never know),,

i need to change my clutch and need to confirm,,,

thanks

Afro

  • Like 1
hey eharrald

can u confirm that the series II r34 has the metal compressor wheel??

is there a way of telling from the outside of the turbo???

do you know if there is a different clutch kit used from the series I??,,, since there is more torque in the series II (i know 20Nm isn't much,, but still u never know),,

i need to change my clutch  and need to confirm,,,

thanks

Afro

Hey Afro.

If you wanted to be certain your turbo had the metal compressor wheel you could do 1 of 2 things.

1. Take out the turbo and physically have a look or

2. Pull of the heat shields and look for the stamp on the turbo. If it says Garrett then it is metal wheel, if it says Nissan then it is nylon.

As for clutch, I'm not too certain as I have the tiptronic box.

oh ya just remembered,,

the series II instrument cluster ,, i.e speedo, tacho, the 3 guages etc all light up an amber/orange colour,, where as the series I lights up white,,

the A/C display still lights ups white on mine

were the sedans given all factory options (like a Holden calais equivalant)? i notice alot of people asking wheather or not they have a S1 or S2, did nissan actually call them S1 and S2 or is it just factory options? Also, why are there alot of variations of the skylines. ie: the 1998 r34 GTT sedan i have has 'skyline' in individual letters across the middle part of the boot where as some had skyline intergrated into the lower bumper. Another thing is that the sedans only GT shields on the front fenders, some have a GT-T badge on the back boot - below the right light. The interior instrument cluster and optional 3 gauge pod has amber lights (from what people are saying, its S2 that had them that colour but 1998 is an early r34 year so when did S2 skylines start to come out?), the rear seats have there drink holders and ashtrays and the driver/passenger have there own drinkholders. Does the vehicle ID plate state if its S1 or S2?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...