Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A friend of mine just got a r32gtr ... nicely modded and produces alot of power ... dont' know the exact numbers but its fast!! ... N1 turbos, big cooler, runs lower boost than normal with those mods, probably for reliablility.

anyways he says that his car oversteers alot in corners and he gets freaked out. he came across this article

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...+torque+control

and was wondering if any of u guys have tried it?? or what other things have you tried to make it handle much better in the corner?

also, the car has ohlins on it, and slightly lowered from what i can see, i'm not to sure about what it has for struct and sway bars, i'll check that later.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51103-r32-gtr-diy-torque-splitter/
Share on other sites

sway bars, tyres, ride height, wheel alignment, all seem to play a roll in it

if you power out of a corner hard i find the arse does come out, but not like a rwd, if you keep on the gas pedal, and point it where you want to go (dont overcorrect) it corrects itself... thats the idea of the ATESSA, if you dial it up to 50/50 full time i think it may do bad things

This link is an interesting read. Deals with modifying torque split control.

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0060

GTR's are complicated beasties eh?

Revision Ah, sorry for the dodgy link. I'm not subscribed to Autospeed either. If you try this http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&ie=U...+g+sensor&meta= and click on "godzilla tamed" it gives you the complete article for some reason.

if u use ne other options, other then 50/50 full time rear and normal, the transfer case will be constantly slipping wearing it out super fast, as with 50/50 your atessa pumps will be constantly working therefor will wear out faster, best just to get used to the way the car works, learn to work with it and it will be unbeatable around a corner.

he says that his car oversteers alot in corners and he gets freaked out.  he came across this article

Rear Steering is not your friend, the first thing I would do is lose the HICAS. Get rid of that fidgetty rear end, that makes you worry that it's going to let go. Tell you friend that the race GTR's never ever ran the HICAS, that usually seals it. :thumbsup:

I've been doing some sniffing around and it seems that the 32's are more tail happy than the 33's due (partly at least) to the tolerances in the transfer case clutch pack.

The 33's clutch pack is partially engaged at all times. This should be achievable with the 32's transfer case as well by using enough of the thicker packers in between clutch plates.

I haven't got an r33 manual to check the figures. Anyone who has, please check it out and let me know.

Also investigating retrofitting v-spec 33/34 ATTESSA computer for faster reaction.

Hi, the car Hippy is talking about is mine.

I've just ordered a Super HICAS electronic locking kit from GRID in Japan

http://www.grid.co.jp/en/prod/prod7.htm

Should take out the unexpected twitches when on the limit. I hope the package is as reliable as physically locking the system, has anyone had any experience with this gizmo?

Sounds interesting about retrofitting either the R32 Attessa-Pro from the V-spec models (If you could ever find one) or a v-spec 33/34 attessa system. I recall reading somewhere in HPI or Zoom that apparently the controller in the attessa (non pro) monitors data @ 100 cycles per second, where as the attessa-pro is much faster at 400 cycles.. does anyone know how much of a difference this would make?

I have that article and he said no difference at all. Apparently just feels a bit smoother in the car but as far as handling goes no difference.

I think the different software would probably give you the difference. I found a post on a UK Skyline site where the guy said he fitted an R34 ATTESSA and the car then handled like the R34.

Ok apparantly the link doesn't work once pasted.. though just do the godzilla tamed google search and full access is granted.

GTRman1992, this is a taken from the last paragraph of the article.. perhaps you missed it?:

"It's hard to believe, but the electronic mods have made more difference to the handling of the GT-R than any other suspension modifications I have ever made to a car. And that includes the changing on previous cars of wheels, tyres, sway bars, springs, dampers, bushes - the lot. The difference simply cannot be overstated. And I might add that now the cat's out of the bag, a number of GT-R owners who had previously told me how wonderfully their cars handled have modified their torque split control system..."

Check it out guy's, some interesting points are made.

To access the DIY ATTESSA Torque controller article go to

www.autospeed.com/A_0060/article.html

or just type: godzilla tamed

in google and you should be able to access the full version

Yeah the link didn't work, but the google search did. Thanks for the tip Conrad. Reading now!

Richard

Ok apparantly the link doesn't work once pasted.. though just do the godzilla tamed google search and full access is granted.

GTRman1992, this is a taken from the last paragraph of the article.. perhaps you missed it?:

"It's hard to believe, but the electronic mods have made more difference to the handling of the GT-R than any other suspension modifications I have ever made to a car. And that includes the changing on previous cars of wheels, tyres, sway bars, springs, dampers, bushes - the lot. The difference simply cannot be overstated. And I might add that now the cat's out of the bag, a number of GT-R owners who had previously told me how wonderfully their cars handled have modified their torque split control system..."

Check it out guy's, some interesting points are made.

I take everything Julian Edgar says with a grain of salt. Having read a lot of what he has written over the years I can say I believe that he has some weird agendas. That article was published many years ago and I have personally tested the mods out on the road and the track. All it does is make the GTR understeer all the time, maybe this made him feel safer, but it just made the GTR slower. This was particularly noticeable around the circuit. I am not the only one with that opion, the article has been discussed and dismissed by many people.

It is also worth noting that the car involved was Julian's own and he sold it shortly after and has done nothing but whinge about it ever since. Maybe he has tall poppy syndrome, because he appears to like nothing better than knocking down icons.

My opinion anyway :D

I take everything Julian Edgar says with a grain of salt.  Having read a lot of what he has written over the years I can say I  believe that he has some weird agendas.  That article was published many years ago and I have personally tested the mods out on the road and the track.  All it does is make the GTR understeer all the time, maybe this made him feel safer, but it just made the GTR slower.  This was particularly noticeable around the circuit.  I am not the only one with that opion, the article has been discussed and dismissed by many people.  

It is also worth noting that the car involved was Julian's own and he sold it shortly after and has done nothing but whinge about it ever since.   Maybe he has tall poppy syndrome, because he appears to like nothing better than knocking down icons.

My opinion anyway ;)

Yeah, after reading the article I didn't really find it very helpful. All he did was basically bag the GTR and say how bloody special his liberty was. and then describe a mod that no-one who's not an electrics genius can make. Very helpful.... :D

Richard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...