Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 113
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well rev210 has run a 13.8 with a simular setup to mine. exhaust and a bit more boost. Hes even done it with the shitty stock clutch and 205 tyres.... so should I break out the bullshit now or later for all you naysayers??? He can obviously drive better than most of us, I could only manage a 14.11 on the night with my new clutch and 225 tyres.

Rob

  • 1 month later...

Sorry to rehash an old argumentative thread, but I didn't see the point of creating a new one.

As most of you know I went to the drags a few weeks back, I went there hoping to pull mid 14's.

My car has stock airbox, 3" trust zorst, from the front pipe back. Running stock boost...(dual stage removed)

got 245/45 rubber at the rear. I have KYB damp adjustable lowered suspension

I started out real badly, being my first time at the drags so I was running 15.5's consistantly.

After improving launching techniques I was able to run 15.1's consistantly with a bit of wheelspin off the line.. I then adjusted the FRONT shocks to number "5" (out of 1-5 setting) and was able to run better.

After that the best I could manage was 14.9's repeatedly, and one fluke 14.86 @ 150.87km/h. 60' time of 2.399

Now, A skyline runs 14.2 stock so I'm thinkin either i'm sh*t at dragging and need to learn more, or something in the car's setup is different.

Hicks suggested I launch at 3000rpm with clutch slip for a better take off, that didnt work as well as I thought as I let it slip too much, and fudged up (ran a 16.8)

I think it's a combination of launch and overall power for me here (so i'm a crap driver with a not-so-powerful skyline)

I was changing at redline every gear, often on the limiter...

-My tyre pressure would have been around 31psi (standard road use)

-I didn't do a burnout beforehand (I really can't get the technique right :( )

How do you guys suggest I pull better times with my current setup?

After xmas a POD is on the list, as is a boost up to 10psi :P

-Kym.

Strich9ine,

It was my first time last Wednesday, and I would agree with you that it is difficult to get your launch technique right. I managed a best of 13.9, but I'm sure that car has more in it that that.

I would suggest lower tyre pressures, I started on normal pressures but soon discovered that about 20psi is much better.

When gear changing, make sure you don't hit the limiter, max power is created at around 6800rpm on most GTS-t's therefore you should change just after this.

Launching is where most of your time and mine is being lost, I have been launching off 3800rpm, and this is between the car bogging down and loosing traction.

I'd definately recommend the burnout before a run, it gets the tyres nice and sticky and helped improve my times. I get the tyres in the water, put it into 2nd gear, build revs to 5000rmp and drop the clutch, then straight onto the brake. When you get going then try and feather the throttle not just bounce off the limiter.

I'm sure with practice that we will both get much better, and I'm sure that people with more experience will be able to give you more help, but nothing is going to beat time behind the wheel.

See'ya:burnout:

Looks like I gotta find some stocker rims and tyres to play around on, don't fancy blowing $300 tyres after a few burnouts....

20psi you say ? i'll give that a try...

it's interesting to know what other techniques people use, and it gives me an idea as to find the perfect medium for dragging...

I gotta beat bully's TT supra down the strip... he pulled a 14.3 (it's an auto)

i'll give it to the pro's tho, it's a lot harder than it looks!

street tyres aren't a soft enough compound to become hot and therefore sticky...unless you're using semi'slicks or full slicks

those people that give a little chirp are wasting their time as that doesn't do anything at all; in order to get your street tyres hot enough you have to do a long, hard burnout, and usually after a couple of those you can kiss your tyres goodbye

tyre pressure, maybe...maybe not...it all boils down to what people have experienced...

I'd say a lower tyre pressure, like 20psi, would be pointless (no offence gtst v-spec! :P) but you're caving the tyre, and only gaining traction on the outer edge of the tyre, and not all the way across...that's why I tend to think that an intermediate pressure is best...and theoretically should be since you'd have maximum traction

so in conclusion: unless you're running slicks, steer clear of burnouts and don't drop tyre pressure *too* much

I stress - IMHO :(

Strich9ine,

You should have enough power there to get into 13's. In its present trim it ought to be faster than mine was when it did the 13.8

245 tyres? man i'd kill to have some of those at the drags.

let them down to 19/20psi. That should give a little sidewall flex.

Burnout should be a little like the way you want to launch (ie: without the brakes applied).

As GTS-t VSPEC suggested the line between bogging down and wheel spin is where you want to be. Slipping the clutch is for cars with more power than yours and mine, instead 'feed' the throttle off the line and during the burnout. :(

forgot to say, regarding where to change gears - get a dyno tune and you'll be able to find out your power range

each car is diff, since you may have diff turbos or anything which would alter the power spots

get the dyno and you'll know the best revs to keep your car within

dumping is best :(

otherwise you'll be buying yourself a nice new clutch a lot quicker and not getting much (questionable) diff on 1/4 times :P

PSIKO,

I thought tyre pressure would do f#ck-all aswell, but I tried it and it works. Street tyres can get stickier and a decent burnout helps, no point just doing a chirp. If you don't apply the brakes then you won't get a decent burnout, I'm getting a line locker in mine so that the rear brakes aren't on while doing the burnout.

See'ya:burnout:

[i gotta beat bully's TT supra down the strip... he pulled a 14.3 (it's an auto)

i'll give it to the pro's tho, it's a lot harder than it looks! [/b]

Ive got to beat that too im sure the car has more in it yet. I was wieghed down with a full fuel tank and tool kit i forgot to take out as well. Not to forget it was my 1st time also and i had launch problems. I dont think ill drag again till after january but when the warrenty expires the watch out Strich9

Originally posted by bully

Ive got to beat that too im sure the car has more in it yet. I was wieghed down with a full fuel tank and tool kit i forgot to take out as well. Not to forget it was my 1st time also and i had launch problems. I dont think ill drag again till after january but when the warrenty expires the watch out Strich9

Dam straight your car has more in it :)

I still had the spare in my car too :D

I wont drag till next year too... after the pod and boostup... 14.0 flat here I come....

Originally posted by Strich9ine

Dam straight your car has more in it :D

I still had the spare in my car too :)

I wont drag till next year too... after the pod and boostup... 14.0 flat here I come....

Winge winge winge.

I had over 100kgs in my boot of work gear plus the back seat was full of printers and the front seat had a big box of stuff and I had a full tank of juice and my spare wheel and tool kit and I was on crap little 205 tyres and only 8 psi of boost.

14 flat? You better be getting 13s or else you have to do a lap around the pool table.:)

I've got to agree with rev210, the additional weight is not the factor stopping you getting a 13. More horsepower and a decent launch is what is needed. I have the horsepower, just need to launch it now!

See'ya:burnout:

Strich9ine,

I would recommend using the RSM shift light ability, it saves me from embarassing myself by hitting the rev limiter down the strip. Practice is what counts, that's why I'm taking every opportunity, cause I need all the help I can get.

I'm sure with higher boost a high 13 is quite possible.

See'ya:burnout:

Originally posted by PSIKO

so in conclusion: unless you're running slicks, steer clear of burnouts and don't drop tyre pressure *too* much

I stress - IMHO :)

I was told by john fowler at wheels world that a burnout before hand makes no difference. But believe me it does. The drag wars day, I wasn't doin a burn out and first gear just kept spinning. I then started doin burnouts(blew the clutch) and ran a best of 13.7 instead of low 14's.

Hicks..

i've said this before and i'll keep saying it until it bugs the sh*t out of everyone.

Burnouts on plain ol street rubber do nothin but send the tyres to an early grave..

how come at the plex you were doing burnouts everyrun, and still pulling different times all over the place...??? I'll give ya a hint, it aint the burn out.. it's just getting the launch right.

all your whoppin burnout does is heat up your intercooler so it's nice and hot for your run.

how about trying a full night (6 or more runs) with NO burnouts and see what your best is..?

Originally posted by Hicks

I was told by john fowler at wheels world that a burnout before hand makes no difference. But believe me it does. The drag wars day, I wasn't doin a burn out and first gear just kept spinning. I then started doin burnouts(blew the clutch) and ran a best of 13.7 instead of low 14's.

A little burnout with no brakes is enough, the idea is to get the tyres a little warmer. John is right about doing brake burnouts, street compound tyres generally are designed to provide grip even in cold conditions for safety reasons. On a hot evening the burnout may not be necessary at all, you can use the staging (burnout) area to find out by launching the car there first (just don't go past the marker, they get anoyed if street cars do this).

My 13.8 pass and more importantly my best 60ft of 2.1 was with a very small non-brake burnout. In the past with other much faster vehicles I have found this method to work, so I stick to it.

I think the key is to stick to what you think works, do a big brake burnout or not, if you think it gives you an edge then do it. I'm not sure if there is much quantifiable evidence either way. I think that getting some heat into R rated tyres helps, hence the reason they do it with Nitto's, normal ZR tyres may or may not, but it won't likely do any real harm except to your clutch.

See'ya:burnout:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
    • I've managed to find this: Nissan_Stagea_AutechVersion260RS (1).pdf
×
×
  • Create New...