Jump to content
SAU Community

Braided Brake lines

Mr R32 M-Spec
 Share

Recommended Posts

Mr R32 M-Spec Experienced

Mr R32 M-Spec

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

well its almost time for the new beast to arrive and I'm just looking at the last few things that may need doing.

I was thinking about repacing the old brake lines with braided ones. does anyone have these on there GTR? and did it make much difference

also if anyone can recommend a good place to get the ADR approved ones(if there is such a thing) and rough costs

cheers

mark :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51786-braided-brake-lines/
Share on other sites
Ashy Larry Grand Master

Ashy Larry

Posted
Posted

Mate,

My GTR came in with the braided lines..... Feels great, and after driving my Mates GTR you can notice the difference.... But I did only notice the difference at the track.... Once the brakes and fluid became warm / hot.

Mike

Mr R32 M-Spec Experienced

Mr R32 M-Spec

Posted
  • Author
Posted

but the only problem is I called race brakes for a quote aswell and they tell me the GTR needs 2 for each wheel and a mounting block for the front so the front is 420 and the rear is like 240

wil be leaving this for a while and getting it done properly I think

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
but the only problem is I called race brakes for a quote aswell and they tell me the GTR needs 2 for each wheel and a mounting block for the front so the front is 420 and the rear is like 240

wil be leaving this for a while and getting it done properly I think

Standard they have 2 brakes lines per wheel on the front, one goes from the inner guard to the upright and the other from the upright to the calliper. I replaced mine with a one piece braided line. It has a plastic hoop around the line that attaches to the upright. Saves 2 fittings and the extra labour to make.

I have compared a number of supposed ADR approved braided brake lines, the only extra I can see is a plastic sleeve over the line that extends about 15-20 mm out from the fittings. This is there to spread the flex loadings that would otherwise be localised at the fitting. Other than that there are no other distinguishing features, the braided hose itself is made by the same manufacturers, as are the fittings. Some I have seen have a tag on them with numbers on it, but it is just like a dymo label and falls off/fades very quickly.

So last time I had some braided lines made up I asked for plastic sleeves to be used at the fittings. Both sets together cost way less than one set of supposed "ADR approved" braided lines. The two cars fitted with them have had pre rego checks and both had no problems.

Hope that helps

  • 2 weeks later...
Sciby Experienced

Sciby

Posted
Posted

There is a pair of guys that make a kit for Soarers and Skylines, they cost $550 per kit... from....

Maltech

Brake and Clutch Hoses

Steve or David Malkin

Phone 0418 378 939 or email:

[email protected] or

[email protected]

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
There is a pair of guys that make a kit for Soarers and Skylines, they cost $550 per kit...  from....

Maltech

Brake and Clutch Hoses

Steve or David Malkin

Phone 0418 378 939 or email:

[email protected] or  

[email protected]

I have just bought and fitted these Maltech lines. They are ADR approved and have the ADR number moulded on all the rubber sleeves at the ends of all fittings. My mechanic had nothing but praise for the quality and "no problem/modification" fitment. i.e: Nissan couldn't produce a better product.

Brake kit (front and rear): $420

Clutch Line: $70

Sciby Experienced

Sciby

Posted
Posted

It's actually more practical over pretty... braided hoses don't expand, so all pressure exerted on the brakefluid is almost completely transferred through the hosing, whereas standard hosing can expand and flex. It also cannot be punctured easily, so you're less likely to get a random leak and suddenly find your brakes don't work.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Sciby is spot on, you should get someone ot push the brake pedal one day when you ca nsee the brake lines. You won't believe how much they flex, and as they get older they flex even more, look like a balloon. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...