Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sydneykid,

Did you have any dramas getting the rear bar to fit? I cant seem to get mine to go even close - the mountings are about 35mm out?

Jash

Take a look at my pictures of the Whiteline bar and the standard bar, on the previous page. Where abouts is it "35 mm out"? If it is at the ends of the arms the links are, have you put the links on the outside or the inside of the arm?

Mine was a tight fit where the D bushes go around the bar, the U bend in the Whiteline bar was a little closer together then the standard bar.:cheers:

awesome work SK, love the info - I will definately be doing sway bars next then as, like you, i am really getting jack of the directionless steering and body roll.

Awesome that they are the same as GTR's tho, any idea what springs/shocks fit? I was assuming these would be the same as a GTR also... (I hope, then i can fit my HKS coilovers).

Christian

Prank,

There is a slight difference in the top of the strut between GTR and Stagea. The GTR is a little bigger and doesn't quite fit in the tower, so I've been told. So from what I understand just use your top spring retainer from the Stagea. And if the rear struts are off a 33 GTR the bottom mount is completely different, so they won't fit at all unless you change the hub carrier to a GTR or 34GTT type.

Cheers

Gary

It was where the U bends were. They seemed to be right in the spot where the bar had to be mounted - how tight was it?

Jash

Take a look at my pictures of the Whiteline bar and the standard bar, on the previous page.  Where abouts is it "35 mm out"?  If it is at the ends of the arms the links are, have you put the links on the outside or the inside of the arm?  

Mine was a tight fit where the D bushes go around the bar, the U bend in the Whiteline bar was a little closer together then the standard bar.:)

It was where the U bends were. They seemed to be right in the spot where the bar had to be mounted - how tight was it?

Jash

Hi Jash, if you still have the standard bar, then measure across the inside of the U bend and compare it with the Whiteline bar. If it is not within 5 mm then it won't fit, so give Whiteline a call on 02 9603 0111 and they will send you a replacement. You can usually give the wrong one to the same courier to take back.

I think what happens is the Stages subframe is slightly narrower and when the jig is set up, the outside measurments are used instead of the inside. Since the bars are thicker that means the U bend is too small.

Hope that helps:cheers:

posted some pics(my gallery) of underside of 260 and scan from autech blurb showing handling mods..roof braces etc...this car is stiff.. no roll thru corners..suspension makes lite work of 1700 odd kgs...hard to believe its a station wagon...until parking at the shopping center..then the long wide load thing starts to happen ... its so farkin long

  • 1 month later...

The Bilsteins go in this weekend, so I measured the centre of wheel to guard heights as it is now;

RHS Front 395mm

RHS Rear 370 mm

LHS Front 395mm

LHS Rear 372 mm

I am thinking of around 360 rear and 370 front, so I will have to machine some extra circlip grooves. Maybe 6 at 5mm intervals.

Need some feedback from the guys that have already lowered theirs, please post up your centre of wheel to guard heights...........:)

Just rang King Springs in QLD and they actually recommended not using their springs in Stageas! They said the fronts are easy - but they dont have a spring suitable for the rears, and even manufactured ones were a bit risky in their opinion!!

So looks like Im a gonna take the advice of a few of the tune shops here in Perth and get the specific Stagea Tein springs sent over from Japan... been quoted $550 fitted which aint bad I suppose.

Just gonna go with stock shocks for now... in the series 2 stageas they seem a heap better - read somewhere they were upgraded for the extra output etc of the Neo6... and certainly seems that way having driven both series 1 and 2 stageas - much flatter cornering and minimal body roll in series 2. Will see how it goes and maybe get Bilsteins later on if I have suspension issues.

The quote was cheap, but i think it was because it was part of an overall list of work worth a few grand - so they are probably making up their profit elsewhere - they gave me that price alongside all my exhaust work and air intake and other bits and pieces, when I told them Id been quoted $600 to fit King Springs (which I now find arent ideal for rear spring choice anyway). Ummm - I'll check with the tune shop about a stand-alone price and PM u mate :)

Guy's,

I can get cost price for Teins, I am sure I posted it up earlier. I have a set on my car. They work well. If you need a set let me know. They are ex Japan though. Be prepared for a wait.

Cheers,

Ken

Cheers Ken & Brazen - I was looking at these on Tein's website last night:

http://www.tein.co.jp/swgdampe.html

About $1250 for the set + shipping, fitting etc - Ken, what would be the approximate cost price?

I have no idea whether this is what I want or what I need! But does seems like it has the right 'bits' (as far a my very limited research tells me) and it is a set made for Stagea...

I currently have the Whiteline anti-sway bars (as outlined in this sticky), 235/40/18s and the caster arm adjustment thingo... I still find that the car needs firming up - I like the 'soft' ride in a straight line, but still feel that it rolls and wobbles a bit when moving off the straight...

Tein's web site doesn't give a great deal of info on their stuff, so I wonder whether this set will be too firm, or not firm enough - though it would have to be better than the 118k stock shocks I would expect.

:D

Hi Tigerleo

Phoned Hanson at Xspeed who do all my work and he is happy for me to put up their quotes for Tein springs for Perth customers. As I said mine was cheaper coz of getting a lot of work done at same time, but his "Springs and nothing else" price for the Stagea fitment Teins are:

Tein S-tech springs $450 fitted

Tein High-tech Springs $650 fitted

But yeah - better to call him for a specific quote on anything you are thinking about - have found them really competitive and great service. Hanson was saying he is actually looking at buying a Stagea for himself, so sure to be the next Xspeed project vehicle (which you can gaurantee will end up on a magazine cover!) so itll be good to know my Stag work would have been researched and experimented on by Hanson on his own Stag a thousand times over! ;)

Also just for anyone looking at exhausts - Xspeed also have a special on at the moment for the Stagea specific fitment HKS Hi-Power 409 WGNC34 for $718 + GST.

http://xspeed.dreamhost.com/catalog/produc...roducts_id=1044

They have a shipment of these exhausts arriving in March.

Hope that info helps

Adam

Probably best to ring Hanson at Xspeed directly for specific inter-state quotes... say you got the price from "Adam" off this forum and just wanted to know an unfitted price with delivery.... Hanson goes out of his way - so if they do interstate Im sure he'll look after you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...