Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

My rear right suspension has developed a knock :)

It will knock several times when going around a corner with one or more people sitting in the back. What is causing this?

dont be too descriptive now, thats a pretty basic question without much info :O

heavy passengers???

Edited by CruiseLiner

haha Yeah sorry - Had to dash off to work!

Well it used to be able to hold all the weight I wanted. This is only a recent problem... Hitting the bump stops possibly? Now if this is the case - I dont want to sound like too much of a Noob (even though I am) what do I have to do to stop it? New shocks? Suspension?

All this thinking has made me tired...

haha Yeah sorry - Had to dash off to work!

Well it used to be able to hold all the weight I wanted. This is only a recent problem... Hitting the bump stops possibly? Now if this is the case - I dont want to sound like too much of a Noob (even though I am) what do I have to do to stop it? New shocks? Suspension?

All this thinking has made me tired...

what suspension u got now? stock or lowered? sk's kit?

does it sound like a metal on metal sound, or rubber on metal?

bumpstops are a very ... well... bumpy ordeal when they hit.

I have a kinda knock, id call it a crack (like a screw) from the rear and I know its because of the rear wheel bearings + high km's + being lowered.

my "knock" occurs when the suspension is traveling, aka around tight corners etc (dont hear it in the sweepers)

Well disaster has struck my car yet again.

It's been at my suspension mechanic for 2 weeks now, and i'm not getting it back anytime soon. Wheel bearings have been a pain in the butt to get replaced, the set he thought would work were 1mm out and even a 15T press couldn't get them in. He got the right ones, but they won't arrive until monday.

My suspension mech being the good bloke he is loaned me his 350Z for the weekend, but i turned him down. no way was i going to drive around in one of those, i'd be paranoid of hitting something.

Every time he looked under the car he noticed the CV boots splitting all over the shop, so i'm up for 4 of those now. a word of advise: DON'T USE UNIVERSAL CV BOOTS. they aren't designed for the movements the driveshafts make on stageas and wear in weak points and split very easily.

On the up side, i now have straight as an arrow rear wheels. no more negative camber. i'll get part numbers for those adjustable arms so everyone can share in my straightness. means i can lower the car a little more now without worrying about uneven tyre wear, or even tyres rubbing on my coilovers (which is was presently doing)

the knock sound you are hearing could possibly be the rim itself rubbing on the shock body, i have had this problem in the past with independant rears and being lowered.

remove one of the rear wheels and check the inner lip of the rim for damage, also look on the shock body itself for rub marks of any kind.

On the up side, i now have straight as an arrow rear wheels. no more negative camber. i'll get part numbers for those adjustable arms so everyone can share in my straightness. means i can lower the car a little more now without worrying about uneven tyre wear, or even tyres rubbing on my coilovers (which is was presently doing)

would be keen to get a hold of those part numbers as soon as they are available!! so i too can have straight rears but i have a series2 so would you be able to compare for fitment? as i have never seen another stag on the road its bit hard to compare stuff.

does it sound like a metal on metal sound, or rubber on metal?

bumpstops are a very ... well... bumpy ordeal when they hit.

I have a kinda knock, id call it a crack (like a screw) from the rear and I know its because of the rear wheel bearings + high km's + being lowered.

my "knock" occurs when the suspension is traveling, aka around tight corners etc (dont hear it in the sweepers)

Rubber on metal id say... Really loud bump bump bump bump noise..... and pretty bumpy. Its kinda like someone bashing the car with a metal pole.... would that be the bump stops?

I have some more noobish questions for you all...

1. When you have the wheel of the car deadstraight - the car is actually turning slightly to the right (just had an alignment about 5 weeks ago... need another?)

2. When braking heavily... and sometimes just driving along, the whole front end of the car shudders very violently. Especially through the steering wheel. What could that be?

My car still isn't fixed. my mech sourced 4 wheel bearings through nissan, and they only sent him 3. this is a disaster, i hope no one else has to go through this much pain to replace wheel bearings. this will cost me a fortune, but hopefully my car will run super smooth and quiet.

My car still isn't fixed. my mech sourced 4 wheel bearings through nissan, and they only sent him 3. this is a disaster, i hope no one else has to go through this much pain to replace wheel bearings. this will cost me a fortune, but hopefully my car will run super smooth and quiet.

Wheel bearings...... I have NEVER EVER replaced wheel bearings on a Skyline, they are monsters. I have seen cars with 300,000 k's still with good, original wheel bearings. Are you sure the problem was wheel bearings?

I have some more noobish questions for you all...

1. When you have the wheel of the car deadstraight - the car is actually turning slightly to the right (just had an alignment about 5 weeks ago... need another?)

2. When braking heavily... and sometimes just driving along, the whole front end of the car shudders very violently. Especially through the steering wheel. What could that be?

1. Hit anything recently? Are you sure it's not camber of the road, so that water runs into the gutter? Did they set it up with more caster on the left than the right? This helps to offset the road camber problem.

2. Sounds like warped brake rotors, have you had the run out checked lately?

:( cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid
Wheel bearings...... I have NEVER EVER replaced wheel bearings on a Skyline, they are monsters. I have seen cars with 300,000 k's still with good, original wheel bearings. Are you sure the problem was wheel bearings?

Yeah i'm sure it's the wheel bearings. they're shagged completely, making terrible noise and such. i've done almost 170,000km on my stagea. only 2 of them were busted, but i figured i'd replace all of them at the same time.

my odometer might not be accurate either with all the clocks being wound back (got it at 97,000)

So I was looking at buying 'Low' King Springs for R33 GTS-T (Supposed to lower the Skyline by ~30mm). And I was aware they might be too light for the Stagea, so I looked to see what Nismo sold for rear of both cars in terms of weight.

Rear Springs Only: Stagea (lowers 20mm) 4.4kg/mm, R33 GTS-T (lowers 20mm) 4.8kg/mm

So the Skyline springs are heavier which isn't what I expected. I know different cars can have different Motion Ratio's from the recent Autospeed article (http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2904/article.html), but these cars would be the same I would expect (sharing the suspension and all).

So why shouldn't I buy the R33 Kings....? Are they gonna lower the Stagea 30mm as specified for a Skyline, or more, or less? I'm thinking more..

have a set of r33 gtr super lows which drop the gtr by 40mm. spring rate is 180lbs/in with was going to be OK based on previous calculation advise... these are for the front and from different peoples advise ( suspension shops) they have said that it would be OK although bit rough

for sale now.. never got on the car still in wrapping

going the group buy set up

So I was looking at buying 'Low' King Springs for R33 GTS-T (Supposed to lower the Skyline by ~30mm). And I was aware they might be too light for the Stagea, so I looked to see what Nismo sold for rear of both cars in terms of weight.

Rear Springs Only: Stagea (lowers 20mm) 4.4kg/mm, R33 GTS-T (lowers 20mm) 4.8kg/mm

So the Skyline springs are heavier which isn't what I expected. I know different cars can have different Motion Ratio's from the recent Autospeed article (http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2904/article.html), but these cars would be the same I would expect (sharing the suspension and all).

So why shouldn't I buy the R33 Kings....? Are they gonna lower the Stagea 30mm as specified for a Skyline, or more, or less? I'm thinking more..

OK, I’m confused.

You can’t use R33GTST rear springs in a Stagea, they don’t fit. The Stagea has smaller strut towers, presumably to give more load space. Plus Stagea rear springs are linear rate, not progressive.

Front springs wise, R33GTR physically fit and would be the closest in rate.

:wave: cheers :)

OK, I’m confused.

You can’t use R33GTST rear springs in a Stagea, they don’t fit. The Stagea has smaller strut towers, presumably to give more load space. Plus Stagea rear springs are linear rate, not progressive.

Front springs wise, R33GTR physically fit and would be the closest in rate.

:dry: cheers :D

Confusion on my part too then, I thought R33GTS-T rear springs fitted the rear of a Stagea. Stagea ones are tapered at the top right? I see from a pic that R33 rears are too.

So if the Skyline rears don't fit (just talking fit here, not rate suitability), what do?

Cheers.

The geometry of the Stagea rear end is different. The cross member is definitely wider and the drive shafts are longer. I wouldn’t be surprised if the fulcrum points in the rear suspension are different therefore giving different leverage on the springs than in an R33 therefore the different spring rates.

The springs that fit are SK’s secret. You will have to ask him of buy them from him.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
×
×
  • Create New...