Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i got my suspension i ordered through nengun today, the TEIN type wagon. only problem was when i opened the box, there were only 3 shock absorbers, the 2 fronts and only 1 rear.

I think this is a funny sort of suspension kit, considering what i paid for it.

as soon as they send me the other shock absorber i'll let you guys know how it fits, for now here's a pic of the 3 i have.

Post up the measurements (wire ID, coil ID and the number of coils) and I will work out the spring rate for you:cheers:

Well Nengun say they sent the 4th shock in a previous package, but with the same EMS number. My post office said they haven't received another package with that number, so idon't know where it is. hopefully it'll show up somewhere, it has my name and address on it, that should help it find me.

So they sent a single shocky first by itself, then sent 3 more... LOL - wtf??

--------------------------------------

Posted this elsewhere but should probably go in the suspension thread for people looking only in here for supension options...

Here's an dam expensive choice at $3700 - but very noice being PentRoof Bilstein WGNC34 specific coil-overs :D

7934190001.jpg

order online from: http://www.ab-flug.co.jp/indexf.htm

(and shout me a set while you're at it)

So they sent a single shocky first by itself, then sent 3 more... LOL - wtf??

--------------------------------------

Posted this elsewhere but should probably go in the suspension thread for people looking only in here for supension options...

Here's an dam expensive choice at $3700 - but very noice being PentRoof Bilstein WGNC34 specific coil-overs :cheers:

7934190001.jpg  

order online from: http://www.ab-flug.co.jp/indexf.htm

(and shout me a  set while you're at it)

They won't fit a Stagea (non 260RS), they have forks at the bottom of the rear shocks, Stagea rear shocks have eyes at the bottom. They are GTR shocks I would say.:)

They won't fit a Stagea (non 260RS), they have forks at the bottom of the rear shocks, Stagea rear shocks have eyes at the bottom.   They are GTR shocks I would say.:)

Awww - dammit

Thanks SK... spoilsport

Do all the parts on my other thread look like 260RS only parts SK??

Cheers

They state 7/6 which is 7 kg / mm (390 lbs per inch) for the front and 6 kg / mm for the rear (335 lbs per inch).  As a comparison, the standard Stagea fronts are 165 lbs per inch, so that's a 137% increase in spring rate.  Usually for sporty road use I would be loooking for around 30% increase.  I think I'll leave it at that, you can make your own judgement from the numbers:cheers:

Call me stupid SK - but I cant get my head around this - didnt really think about it when you did this reply above, but...

If 7/6 is around a 137% increase and way too hard, and 30% increase is ideal ... arent the Tein S Tech springs ok, being 3.1 Front (172pounds/inch or 4% increase over stock) and 3.8 Rear (213pnds/inch or 25% over stock).

The Tein S Tech lowering springs would end up under the 30% max you recommended, with 25% increase at the rear, and pretty much same stiffness at front with only a 4% increase.... but you have said before the Tein spring are way too stiff.... am I still missing something in all this suspension mumbo jumbo??? :confused:

Cheers

Hello all (esp SK)

Time to replace the radius rod bushes on the stag. Do I go factory or

do I go whiteline ?? if they have them

And while I'm at it, should I get a more "adjustable" setup in the radius

rod setup ??

Any hints clues would be appreciated

cheers all, and thanks, this is a great forum !!

Call me stupid SK - but I cant get my head around this - didnt really think about it when you did this reply above, but...

If 7/6 is around a 137% increase and way too hard, and 30% increase is ideal ... arent the Tein S Tech springs ok, being 3.1 Front (172pounds/inch or 4% increase over stock) and 3.8 Rear (213pnds/inch or 25% over stock).

The Tein S Tech lowering springs would end up under the 30% max you recommended, with 25% increase at the rear, and pretty much same stiffness at front with only a 4% increase.... but you have said before the Tein spring are way too stiff.... am I still missing something in all this suspension mumbo jumbo???   :confused:  

Cheers

Nope, you got it right, if the Tein S Tech are truly 3.1/3.8. Maybe they started to listen to the rest of the world. Then it's down to what shock valving rates they are using.

Hello all (esp SK)

Time to replace the radius rod bushes on the stag. Do I go factory or

do I go whiteline ?? if they have them  

And while I'm at it, should I get a more "adjustable" setup in the radius

rod setup ??

Any hints clues would be appreciated  

cheers all, and thanks, this is a great forum !!

Stageas (like GTR's) need more caster real bad, so I would always go for the adjustable Whiteline replacement bushes. Being 4wd, we can't get as much caster on them as GTST's, but every little bit helps.

:)

  • 2 weeks later...

Looking for some input guys (esp SK).

Getting the radius rods replaced (bushes are shot) on Wed, and the guy said I can have the adjustable versions if I want. Is this a better option than the whiteline bushes (both will give caster adjustment ??). Or do I completely misunderstand

the Stagea front suspension ?

thanks and cheers

Looking for some input guys (esp SK).  

Getting the radius rods replaced (bushes are shot) on Wed, and the guy said I can have the adjustable versions if I want.  Is this a better option than the whiteline bushes (both will give caster adjustment ??). Or do I completely misunderstand

the Stagea front suspension ?

thanks and cheers

Previous post on this subject......

In order to increase the caster you simply pull the front wheels forward in the guards. Not enough to rub though. This changes the front steering toe angles and therefore you need to re-align it after fitting and adjusting the caster.

If the caster rods you are looking at have spherical joints at the front (not polyurethane or rubber) then you will notice a slight increase in NVH as there is no dampening. Sphericals also wear rapidly on Australian (rough) roads, and they then knock noticeably.

Since they don't have as much "play" as a polyurethane bush they do provide more constant caster settings (less flex) but that comes at the price as above ie; as usual, you don't get something for nothing.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

As you can tell, I am not a fan of sphericals in a road car, they wear out very fast in that environment, knock like a bustard and cost as much as a new arm to replace. Plus they add quite a bit to the NVH (noise, vibration & harshness) even when new. Consequently I would always recommend an adjustable polyurethane bush.

:rofl:

Previous post on this subject......

As you can tell, I am not a fan of sphericals in a road car, they wear out very fast in that environment, knock like a bustard and cost as much as a new arm to replace. Plus they add quite a bit to the NVH (noise, vibration & harshness) even when new. Consequently I would always recommend an adjustable polyurethane bush.

:(

SK, your'e a legend, thanks heaps for the info.

Just to let people know, i'm getting my TEIN Type wagon coil overs and whiteline sway bars installed tomorrow, i'll get some pics up once i get her home. i don't have time or tools to do it myself, which is a bummer because this thread is super helpful.

anywho, just letting people know if they're interested

Cool, it'll be good to see how it goes. Once done you'll be able to out handle most cars :D

I've been tempted to get a set of sway bars, but I know if i get them then I'll want new suspension and then do the camber and next thing i know I'll get a loan and do a rb26 and 5 speed converstion.. lol

Well got my car back from Inline. he says the springs have to settle before he can lower it at all, but the sway bars are in and work absolutely awesome. the car takes corners like it wasn't even trying, and there's barely any body roll. all in all a good investment in my opinion.

The Bilsteins go in this weekend, so I measured the centre of wheel to guard heights as it is now;

RHS Front 395mm

RHS Rear 370 mm

LHS Front 395mm

LHS Rear 372 mm

I am thinking of around 360 rear and 370 front, so I will have to machine some extra circlip grooves.  Maybe 6  at  5mm intervals.

Need some feedback from the guys that have already lowered theirs, please post up your centre of wheel to guard heights...........:cheers:

SK,

I realise this is an old post but have just measured the S2, and the figures are:

RHF 360mm,

LHF 360mm,

RHR 365mm, and

LHR 372mm.

However I have a weeping shock on LHR so may be this is having an impact on height.

The vehicle has NISMO springs but have no idea as to what the specs are.

Marc2

SK,

I realise this is an old post but have just measured the S2, and the figures are:

RHF 360mm,

LHF 360mm,

RHR 365mm, and

LHR 372mm.

However I have a weeping shock on LHR so may be this is having an impact on height.

The vehicle has NISMO springs but have no idea as to what the specs are.

Marc2

Thanks Marc, looks like the usual 30 mm lowering on the front, but with standard height rear. I did similar with ours, it takes away that nose up look they have when the rear springs settle due to load carrying. The diff right/left rear is usually because they spend a lot of their life with just the driver in the car. If you are changing shocks it may pay to check the free height of the springs and maybe swap left to right.:cheers:

PS; send me the spring specs and I can rate them if you like, using the computer spring rate simulator, it is very accurate. I would need the wire diameter, coil ID and number of coils.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...