Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I just bought an R33 GTS-T, It's completely stock. I cant afford any major mod at the moment. Just wondering would an intake alone help much in term of performance? because it normally should go with an exhaust system (like the car gotta be able to breath in and out well!)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53129-does-intake-help-much/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

After market pod will help you, I dont know why geno8r said its will have negetive effect? :rollseyes:

Just make sure its fine enough to filter out dirty air...

and depends on the road regulation, if you dotn have permit or if the pod is not securely attached to somewhere you would get defect "yellow sticker".

hope this helps.

Pods bring in more air, but hot air

Stock air boxes bring in less air, but colder air.

Pods are only good for turbo's sucking lots of air @ higher RPMs. If not flowing large amounts of air, best to have a cold air box around it, otherwise its just going to be sucking in hot air.

Pods can be Bad for lower speed, but good for higher speed RPMs.

Hot4s mag did an article on stock air boxes vs pod filters & modifying your stock air box by replacing the filter & cutting out some plastic restrictions will work better than a pod if your vehicle is stock, can all depend on the total setup like all things.

Get an Apexi filter or a K&N. Then run some 3"-4" dryer ducting from somewhere exposed in the front of the car, such as a fog light hole, up to the filter, essentially creating ram air. If you cant make it work, you dont want it bad enough, and yes, you'll notice the difference.

Yeh, do a search on Cold Air Boxes, there's lots of good advice on making your own, & as fantasy said directing air up to your pod. I personally have not done it yet but will expect good results when i do.

I rarely go driving & nighttime but went driving last night when the air was all cold & DAM! My car was running the fastest i'ver ever felt, stock 7 psi felt like atleast 12psi during the day. Then when i upped it to 12psi, all i can say is fast... very very fast... So when i do get a CAI happening should be great for daily driving.

Along with what Duncan said about the bleed valve....If you simply turn up the boost with out increasing the amount of air that the engine takes in, the engine works much harder than it has to. You might even see bigger gains with the addition of a filter at stock boost levels as apposed to just turning up the boost without one. The addition of a filter may raise you boost a notch or two as well. Both a new filter, and upped boost would be even better.

When my R32 GTS-T had an exhaust, FMIC & 1bar of boost it made 164rwkw.

Slapping a pod on inbetween power runs showed absolutely zero power gain. If anything it lost something like .5rwkw down low.

Apparently the stock RB airbox is good up to around 400hp or ~200-230rwkw before it becomes a restriction.

Get an Apexi filter or a K&N. Then run some 3"-4" dryer ducting from somewhere exposed in the front of the car, such as a fog light hole, up to the filter, essentially creating ram air. If you cant make it work, you dont want it bad enough, and yes, you'll notice the difference.

Yes :( I had the pod on, then we wacked in some 3inch piping from the front bar (middle of winter mind you when it was done) and yeah, I REALLY noticed the difference that made, altho it probably wont make a lot of different on a dyno.

And yeah get a bleedvalve, mine cost $70, works a treat, holds boost perfectly, never spikes etc.

Keep the stock box. Get a GTR foam re usable 'Finer Filter' they have very good flow and do a good job cleaning the intake charge. As an addition to the stock cold air intake I cut another hole nearby and routed short piece of flex pipe to just behind the headlight to assist with air flow. Car really seems to accelerate and breathe better, and you're not sucking in hot air, that kills performance.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...