Jump to content
SAU Community

Look at this import R33 GTR

Lepperfish
 Share

Recommended Posts

NAman Collaborator

NAman

Posted
Posted

I would be a bit worried about that car…

Look at the last two photos around the spare wheel. Are there cracks!? I think so!

I believe it's an accident car- the shell may have only done 24k but the engine looks older and "cracks" in the boot.

Good luck to the buyer.

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted

Im with Steve also.

And like i said, the fact that paint from the plenum is peeling does not automatically mean the car as a) had a hard life or B) had its odometer tampered with

And for those commenting on how the engine looks "tired" and dirty which is apparently an indication of its true age or condition, you have got to be kidding.

Not everyone cleans and washes their engine bays. The climate and conditions in japan would also be a major factor in the surface condition of parts in the engine bay and around the car.

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
Blitz: how many kms did your 33GTR have? Was the plenum like that ?

I admit that I dont have any experience with GTR like you, do all GTR engine look like that after 24k kms ?

My car had 40,000 km's when I bought it and the paint on the plenum and rocker covers was perfect

DAN00H Mentor

DAN00H

Posted
Posted

I think it looks pretty good FOR THE MONEY! But if you look closely, you will notice the plug cover has been off the engine for some time - it does not have the soem level of oxidisation as the cam and timing belt covers.

I'd have it for that money! i bought my GTR from Geoff and it was in better condition than descirbed.

NAman - I don't think it has cracks in the boot - doesen't look accident damaged to me!

I think the buyer has done well!

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

at least its stock... even has the STOCK MUFFLER! i have only ever seen one of them in real life on a friends car..

as if its not wound back lol.

also the rubber around the gearlever isnt cracked (on most cars its cracked) and the front lip looks like its in one peice..

but it is missing the snorkle for the air box..

cheap either way but it is still risky(gtr repair labour costs) u never know about its mechanical condition till its here..

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
I'm beginning to think this one may have had slight water damage.... during a typoon or something. I wonder what the interior smells like?

You probably wouldn't have the time (or the desire to get involved), but it seems there's a business opportunity here for the guys like you in Japan - you could offer an independent inspection service for cars like this. Don't really need to be a mechanic, just check the cars out so they match description, all damage (if any) as described, etc etc, offer a general opinion - no guarantee's, of course, just the opinion.

Just a thought :D

Rezz Grand Master

Rezz

Posted
Posted

Ok... I'll see what I can do about this guys. I add something to my sig if it's something viable for me to get into.

Just remember that I can only check cars on Sundays only and in Osaka city or Kobe only.

go_nuts Enthusiast

go_nuts

Posted
Posted

My whale has almost 96k on the clock when I bought it over and the paint on the plenum and the cam cover are perfect. Even on the pipe where it says "twin turbo" doesn't have white deposits on it either. I don't think the paint and the white bits are a good indication of the engine...

BoyWhoCriedWolf Grand Master

BoyWhoCriedWolf

Posted
Posted

33 GTR with 24000 on the clock going for 1.5mil Yen - doesnt happen. Just for the record - my GTR (r32 sold to Kier Wilson) had 800000km on the clock, my engine bay looked a lot better. And for the roads in Hokkaido - yes they do salt them but this is not the cause of the "irregularities" of this engine bay. One of my suppliers is just outside Sapporo where they do salt the roads.

Nuf said.

Ken

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • R32 TT
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By R32 TT · Posted

      Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • GTSBoy
      R34 auto to manual conversion help

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...