Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 123
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

On a serious note, the standard setup of a GTR is so far ahead of the R33 GTS25t (as original cost would attest) that any advantage in weight is overcome. I'm yet to try my 25t on decent suspension but I have an expectation it will improve the result dramatically. With unmatched std shocks and harder springs it takes a delicate touch. The GTR track is wider as well and influences handling a huge amount.

Too much power in the GTS makes it too hard to go fast at PI and as Andrew said, you can maintain commitment in the GTR. For knore, I was running 220rwkw at 15psi and managed 2:03 on road rubber, then dropped to 11psi and went 2:00.6 so getting the power down becomes a problem out of a few critical corners. Sandown is one with tightish corners onto long straights so again the GTR will rule. We can't include Ben's GTR as an example due to the mods (is there a trach GTS with that much done to it? mine will take a while:D)but certainly Scotsman (chris) is a real demonstration of what a pretty stock GTR can do. Take the 5 seconds a lap out for cheater rubber at PI and he is then 3-4 seconds faster than me.

The R34 is undoubtedly an improvement again over the 33 in both models seeing the handling of Adz's car compared to mine. We were pretty well on par but I had roll bars. While I never got enough track time to be consistent I have put together individual laps earlier in my racing life to be on par with some of the top five to ten in my races in u2L sports sedans, clubman karts and F Ford (which was an awesome demonstrator for driver ability in equal equipment).

mostly though driver ability and commitment are the biggest influencing factors.....and I suck. I'd rather drive it home.

On a serious note, the standard setup of a GTR is so far ahead of the R33 GTS25t ....  .

:werd:

The way i see it they have bigger rotors, stiffer bodies and susp, better diffs, good intercooler, way more power with just an exhaust, boost increase and tune, slightly wider track and larger diameter and also wider rubber on all corners!

About the only fair comparison is skylinegeoffs R33 GTST vs Scotsmans GTR. But he cheats and uses sticky rubber.

Too much power in the GTS makes it too hard to go fast at PI and as Andrew said, you can maintain commitment in the GTR. For knore, I was running 220rwkw at 15psi and managed 2:03 on road rubber, then dropped to 11psi and went 2:00.6 so getting the power down becomes a problem out of a few critical corners.  

Dont really agree with that. Your car needs decent tyres and susp upgrade and a good alignment. How much more traction did you have with the stickies...then consider shocks/springs and a decent alignment. A well sorted GTST can handle way more then 220rwkws...i was making 206rwkws at PI and the thing was hooking up nicely:) (The few corners it ran properly:()

Biggest variable is driver and tyres...only have to look at Duncan/Fatz lap times in a std R33 with sticky rubber if you want to feel inadequate:(

Hey snowman, bout your theory, I have tried and tested, and it has to do with the g sensors for the awd in gtr's. depending on where u are it can change dramaticaly. Phillip Island and in general, further north changes the effect of the lateral sensors, which in turn brings the front into play alot faster when exiting corners, further south, the opposite will happen. The best mod I have done to my gts-4 was to rotate the lateral g sensor 90 degrees, the result, fantastic handling, now i can exit corners and not have to worry bout losing it.

Gimme some cheater tyres and lets talk about small ballz. Until then...  :talk2hand

Your R32 already runs bigger wider 17s with the 4wd, thats enough cheating for you my friend:)

I seem to recall that you ran Race Brakes Comp 9s, what did you think of them? Im about to throw a set at my car, but i seem to recall that they kinda ate your rotors:( Perhaps i shoudl just throw them in the night before a day at the track?!?!?!

I was hoping to see how the GTST went up against the GTRs on the weekend, but my car was sabotaged by Snowmans mechanic to stop me from beating him:)

Disclaimer: if my car is as quick as any GTR with less then 240rwkws then i see that as a win:)

I've been having a think about this and I reckon the only things I could think of were when us RWD drivers break traction coming out of a corner we have to ride it out or back off, both will slow us down BUT when a 4WD breaks traction coming out of a corner all you do is point the car and floor it and the torque splitter does the rest, thats enough cheating in my opinion.

Oh another funny ones is when you have a GTR driver in the passenger seat and they say "break later, break later". The GTS-T and GTT breaks sure don't hold up like the GTR's. Any later and my car would be a smear on the wall, well an even bigger one than it is :P

Having 4WD does not compensate enough for having semi slicks. The cornering G's of 4WD are nowhere near RWD with slicks! Lets not forget how much later you can brake.

Comp 9's were REALLY good but they demolished my standard rotors. The DBA's seem to take it a lil better. Noisy though. But yeah, better as a track only option.

...The GTS-T and GTT breaks sure don't hold up like the GTR's. Any later and my car would be a smear on the wall, well an even bigger one than it is :P

LOL...that aint funny:(

But normally those same GTR drivers run sticky rubber and have susp work. It makes the car so much more stable and allows more confidence when braking. I dont think Scotsman use to brake as late as Snowman, and i dont think it has so much to do with R33 vs R34 or driver ability as it did tight susp vs sloppy std stuff.;)

They were dead even yesterday now that they have basically the same mods. On paper Scotsmans brakes are as good as Snowmans for about 2-3 laps, then the aluminium hats and better cooling of Snowmans should mean his resist fade better.

But GTRs do come with the good stuff factory, while us GTST owners have to hunt around part stores to retro fit the good bits to our cars:(

In a GTR when the ATTESSA kicks in does it upset the line of the car much. I know in slow corners when it kicks in the things start to understeer (Turn 2 and 9 at Easter Creek) On the quick stuff though can you keep yor foot planted and hold your line?!?!?!

I think so much advantage of the GTR comes back to the RB26 and great chassis, it has less to do with the 4wd. Oh and show me a GTST with 17" 255 rubber all round:)

If we were doing 35 laps and needed to look after our tyres then yes the GTR would come into its own. For the sake of a few laps around the track i dont think the 4wd (especially the way ATTESSA is set up from the factory) there is much advantage...

Having 4WD does not compensate enough for having semi slicks. The cornering G's of 4WD are nowhere near RWD with slicks! Lets not forget how much later you can brake..  

Thats the line im towing and im sticking with it:) Traction may be similar, but braking and lateral grip woudlnt compare (well at least thats what i think)

absolutely. rwd with semis > 4wd with road tyres. any day.

Adzmax, are you running semis as well? they make a hge difference to braking, much more than the size of the calipers or discs.

I've found my brakes work a treat. Gtst's fading while I keep up the laps.

Never had any fade at all.

I guess I'm not going fast enough hehe.

I've been having a think about this and I reckon the only things I could think of were when us RWD drivers break traction coming out of a corner we have to ride it out or back off, both will slow us down BUT when a 4WD breaks traction coming out of a corner all you do is point the car and floor it and the torque splitter does the rest, thats enough cheating in my opinion.

Oh another funny ones is when you have a GTR driver in the passenger seat and they say "break later, break later". The GTS-T and GTT breaks sure don't hold up like the GTR's. Any later and my car would be a smear on the wall, well an even bigger one than it is :P

Driving like a girly girl racer your right, I don't experience any brake fade but when I decide to step up and really push it I'm breaking a hell of a lot later and harder, thats when brakes start to crack the poo's.

I was running street's last weekend and your right, that has a hell of a lot to do with it.

One thing though, are you trying to tell me that a GTS-T/GT-T with semi's can go round corners as quick as a GTR with semi's?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...