Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My AVC-R does a few weird things. Mainly in the overboost department. I have set it to run .65bar however at times it spikes up to .75 or .80 bar before dropping to .65.

a. Is this normal??

b. Have I got it hooked up right. I have a vaccume line comming off the "surge tank" which has a t piece. One line goes to the pressure sensor the other goes to the BOV.

the apexi documentation is kinda crap..

avcr.jpg

I am assuming the Air Filter Pressure Regulator is the BOV right.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54271-avcr-question/
Share on other sites

Drop the duty cycle down. When the AVC-R thinks the duty cycle is correct (when its not overboosting) it will change from three numbers (e.g 055) to ***. Then just run it in self learning mode for a while to self tune it a bit and it should all be good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54271-avcr-question/#findComment-1064511
Share on other sites

Whats the T piece for ?

Are you running a external wastegate or stock set-up ?

For stock set up it should go from your intercooler pipe/turbo/serge tank or were ever you have it plumbed into. That goes to [NC] on the avc-r solinoid and [COM] goes to turbo actuator.

Check your F/B control if this is too high you will get spikes. And as other's said adjust your duty cycle to get your boost to what its set at.

:(

Jun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54271-avcr-question/#findComment-1064931
Share on other sites

This looks like a good thread to put my question into.

I've drawn a graph (using ms paint, please forgive me) of my boost curve on the road.

It doesn't do this on a dyno but it does on the road. It's most pronounced in 2nd gear but does still do it in 3rd.

I have the boost duty set quite high because it struggles to get to the set boost. (0.85 bar) It often peaks at 0.78 or so even though I have it set to 0.85.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54271-avcr-question/#findComment-1065166
Share on other sites

T piece is for splitting the vaccume line off the plennum / surge tank. 1 goes to the AVC-R sensor the other goes to the BOV.

I will sus out this F/V control you speak off. Might also try dropping the duty cycle, however since the boost is level after the spike not sure if thats the cause. Its almost like it delays the opening of the waste gate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54271-avcr-question/#findComment-1065383
Share on other sites

My AVC-R does a few weird things. Mainly in the overboost department. I have set it to run .65bar however at times it spikes up to .75 or .80 bar before dropping to .65.

a. Is this normal??

b. Have I got it hooked up right.  I have a vaccume line comming off the "surge tank" which has a t piece. One line goes to the pressure sensor the other goes to the BOV.

the apexi documentation is kinda crap..

avcr.jpg

I am assuming the Air Filter Pressure Regulator is the BOV right.

In that diagram "Air Filter Pressure Regulator" is acutally 2 things "Air Filter" refers to the small plate shapped thing to the left of the text and it's the air filter that goes in the vacuum line feeding pressure to the pressure sensor (it comes with the kit). "Pressure Regulator" refers to the Fuel Pressure Regulator.

HTH mate :)

Richard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54271-avcr-question/#findComment-1065389
Share on other sites

What is your start duty set to.

This can able you to spike your boost or under spike it. might help level out your graph a little bit.

It's not ramped at all at the moment. I might try easing it off in the lower revs so that it doesn't hit so hard.

Just feels quicker with a hard hit of boost. :)

Ta.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54271-avcr-question/#findComment-1065440
Share on other sites

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

I got you dude.. yeah. those little clear air filter things!!

BING WAHHHHH

might do some reworking of these vaccume lines.. see if it helps the spike issues..

Yep, that's the ones. Man you got gipped though if they are clear, my trust thingy came with green ones :looney: yeeha!

The re-working might help, but it sounds like it's most likely a tuning/programing problem.

Richard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54271-avcr-question/#findComment-1065875
Share on other sites

hmm, I don't know of any places in melbs but any place that sells all that kind of nice flashy stuff (avcrs etc) would have 'em. I know in sydney I'd go to somewhere like advan, or UAS, but if none of the local shops have them you could mail order from syd, or Japan for that matter.

Richard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54271-avcr-question/#findComment-1066940
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...