Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:( hoping it is just a leaky hose.

Either way Plenum out all hoses replaced.

Temp always under half way today. Leaks when turned off, not while on

No oil in water or water in oil (yet!!, touch wood)

Richard, I noticed today that your Exhaust and mine are the same (Blitz Nur Spec), but I have my silencer bung in.

All I need to do now is build a Fat GTR around it and I'll have your car. ;) minus the leak of course.

Fingers crossed she's all sweet (And I'm sure she will be!!).

Mine was on other side of the motor. I too had hoped it was just a fluid line or worst case a welsch plug but no such luck as confirmed when we got her on the hoist.

Do you have aftermarket temp gauge? Bear in mind by the time the factory one moves you're usually well f**ked and it's too late.

my zorst has no bung in the bung hole :D

and yeah - I was worried it would either go off the dial. Either upwards or downwards.

I'm Just relying on the factory one at the moment which as you know is either half or full or zero.

Kept one eye on it for any movement today. My PFC used to monitor water temp but haven't got the Haltech doing this.

Will have to get one in the triple gauge or hook a pc upto Haltech

Yeah - when stuff goes bad on a GTR it's normally really BAD

The may lose green fluid, but it doesnt lose turbos........

Yeah kinda pee'd on me a bit lol looked a familiar colour after drinking a few too many V's..... Warm too...

I just wanted it to be anything other than what it was... Coming out a crack on the side of the block.

Oh well. She's all sweet now! But I never want that feeling again.

Im going to set up an output on my haltech (maybe tomorrow if i can be bothered lol) that will display a bright red led when water temp gets over say 90. will also use this once i get an oil pressure and oil temp senders for it too. Once light comes on, pull over or its gonna be expensive lol. Would only require 1 output as well, just have a few conditions set!

Edited by k_d

Im going to set up an output on my haltech (maybe tomorrow if i can be bothered lol) that will display a bright red led when water temp gets over say 90. will also use this once i get an oil pressure and oil temp senders for it too. Once light comes on, pull over or its gonna be expensive lol. Would only require 1 output as well, just have a few conditions set!

Wouldn't you think maybe to set it at a little higher say around 100... Water temp is generally higher that oil temp by up to 10 degrees, when I give mine the beans it gets to a little over 90...

Just a suggestion

Yeah on average my water temp on the PFC shows 70-75 (depending on hot weather) and on my oil temp gauge it reads 65 or so.... Either way you don't want either of them creeping too high because that spells disaster..

:( hoping it is just a leaky hose.

Either way Plenum out all hoses replaced.

Temp always under half way today. Leaks when turned off, not while on

No oil in water or water in oil (yet!!, touch wood)

Here be just some of the horrors that lurk beneath the plenum. There are more attached up under the plenum itself..........

That's not my engine, but gives you some idea

piping_zps1b99ffea.jpg

Thanks JD.

Going to be something/anything in the red circles below.

Definately Plenum off :(

Good excuse to get my Nismo on - woot woot

holds an extra litre of air and feeds number 5/6 alot better

Anyone heading out to the Nats for a look?? I have a season pass so I'll be loitering around. Will likely be in Braddon on the Fri/Sat nights too.

I'm keen to head to the drive in on the Thurs but have no idea if that's just for entrants with cars. Anyone got any idea?

It's like on the main screen at the main stage or something. Cars that aren't entered can't drive in but I'm assuming you can sit on the grass or somewhere to watch it.

They are playing Cars and Running on Empty.

Surely there's external speakers right? lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...