Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

import an 89 model while you still can, or buy a 90 model for import next year..

theres a misconception that 15 year old cars are 1000x crappier than a car that is only a handful of years younger than it. The truth is that 15 year cars are just a few years older than the cars that cost 4-5k more.

And if you find a 15 year old vehicle thats in outstanding condition its not uncommon for it to be a far better buy than eg a 92 model that has average amounts of wear and tear.

I have owned 2 now. My first was a 92 model and I currently own a 93.

You really need to take a good look at the inside of the car to get a good indication of the condition. You will know what I mean, when you start looking.

Under the car can also give a good impression.

So there is no real interior difference? So what are the differences? What about the studs on the wheels i have heard something like the later models come with 5 or 4 or something like that any of u guys know about this?
First of all, you should go for a Type M (as opposed to a standard GTS-t - Type Ms have the "Nissan" 4-pot front calipers)... not that you'll find a normal GTS-t floating around anyway but...

The interiors on the later (post '91) GTS-ts ditched the smooth black plastic surround that goes around the audio system/air con controls for a "grained" grey plastic trim (can someone confirm? I bought a grained plastic surround for my car off Yahoo and it was from a post '91) and the seat fabrics are different afaik. The standard audio system was upgraded, but I think most R32s have had their audio changed for aftermarket at some stage in their life.

All Type Ms have the 5 stud hubs on them....

I have a 1990 model btw.

Just my 2c, but I really think you should get the latest model you can find with the best bodywork. Especially check the rear wheel arches for rust and where the rear bumper attaches to the bodywork... a haven for rust. Rust is the killer, you can change the engine, replace the interior WHATEVER... but you can't stop the rust without doing it properly with alot of $$$ that you could be using for performance mods. I love my R32 even though it's been abused like a 2-fitty hooker, but I would go back and do it again to get a more expensive well maintained (and rustfree) 1992 model.

You cant import from around 90->mid 92 because the R was sold in australia during those times.

Also, the type-M was only from around 92 onwards (Series 2) also wasn't it? with LSD, 4 pots, kit etc.

Shaun

well your making the right decision by buying an R32, i've got a 92 type m gtst.

its a nice little car that likes to kick out the rear some times around corners, hehe

With the fuel consumption, if you drive miss daisy it wont drink anything, if you drive like schumacher it will much like any normal 6cylinder turbo vehicle. I've found that running BP ultimate is the best fuel for this type of car and you get more k's.

-B

Also, the type-M was only from around 92 onwards (Series 2) also wasn't it? with LSD, 4 pots, kit etc.

Shaun

Type Ms were released from May '89 through till July '93... all of those Type Ms had the 4pot brakes and LSD.

Cars built from june 92 onwards could be imported through the old scheme, and will be able to be imported through the new scheme, if anyone gets approval for them.

Pre 91 cars have blue dials, post have grey dials.

My 92 type M still has the stock tape player.

All turbo skylines R32 onwards have 5 stud wheels.

Not all type M's have the bodykit, it was a factory option.

Cars built from june 92 onwards could be imported through the old scheme, and will be able to be imported through the new scheme, if anyone gets approval for them.

Pre 91 cars have blue dials, post have grey dials.

My 92 type M still has the stock tape player.

All turbo skylines R32 onwards have 5 stud wheels.

Not all type M's have the bodykit, it was a factory option.

my 92 model has blue dials

i'm thinking the dial colour was dependent on the car colour as my car is dark blue to match the dials...

most dials are grey as most cars are grey/black

I'm with Rezz, get a Post Aug 1991 (so that's a series 2) Type M. You'll get all the factory goodies that you want and a car that didn't have any recalls.

Post 91 cars ot grey dials, blue only vame from NISMO, apexi, and other aftermarket dial makers or factory in Series 1 R32s

Dunno if you'd want ABS, but yeah see if you can get a sunroof... its a bitch to put a sunroof in a R32 afterwards, and its soo nice in summer, as you can leave it open when you leave the car and it dosen't become a sauna.

Make sure the leather on the dash isn't lifting as this is a common problem, also around the C-Pillar the leather tends to split and peel off. If you find one that doesn't show this then its a sign that the owner was very careful with his car and took care of it.

No, no... RHETT is right, post-'91 cars have grey dials, I think your dash has been replaced Warren *runs and hides in the corner behind the sofa*

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah

well it matches the paint so who cares?

(anyone got nissan FAST so i can check my build date?)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...