Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, I *think* I know the answer, but time to check, before I spend $$ etc

R33 '96 Series 2

T3/4 Hibrid Turbo

FMIC

Stainless Ducting

3" high Flow, all the way through

Mines ECU

Adjustable Fuel Reg

Pod

Etc, Etc.

When I'm using the engine to brake, usually when i've been doing quite a few k's at motorway speeds (100-110), I get random pops/almost backfires. Usually only one or two, when slowing down for a roundabout etc.....

It's noticable to me, but not to an uneducated passenger, so they're not too noisy.

I think it's because i'm running rich atm, and am going to be changing ECU & getting a retune done soon (Which should fix it, and a little more power, I hope)

(IIRC, I was running 12.5's on the mix at the last dyno)

Any other thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54658-pops-backfires/
Share on other sites

mine does the same mate ...

just unburnt fuel passing into / through the turbo and igniting in the exhaust ...

when you have LOTS of fuel going through, then you get, ahem, nice flameouts ...

slightly more than a popping noise tho when this happens .... a friends rx-7 in the uk used to shoot flames on each gear change ..

lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54658-pops-backfires/#findComment-1069349
Share on other sites

My GTI-R does it. I love it! It sounds great on gear changes. Mine is caused by two things, free flowing straight through exhaust and rich as tune. Don't worry about it too much. Unless of course it has only just started happening which may indicate a problem.

Richard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54658-pops-backfires/#findComment-1069800
Share on other sites

Due to your car running rich, the unburnt fuel when you back off the throttle is left in the chamber, So once your throttle body closes theirs no more air only leaving fuel to hit your nice hot turbo. Which ignites and back fires. no mager dreamer, as lots of skylines do it. You should see what happens when you have a 700hp GT3540 and that fuel hits that a full noise. Its pretty awesome flame about 1m long.

Just make sure your exhaust sticks out far enough from your back bumper, other wise it will melt it eventually.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54658-pops-backfires/#findComment-1069991
Share on other sites

thats more a result of a sh|t tune.

my car doesnt pop/backfire or flame and it has no cat

NOPE, don't think so. mine pops away quite happily on occasion as a result of a very free exhaust and nothing to do with my tune which is near on perfect 12:1 AFR's thanks to PFC.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54658-pops-backfires/#findComment-1070710
Share on other sites

Interesting leg you're standing on. So you're telling me that my car isn't actually tuned properly and every car in victoria is so therefore they don't do it?

Anyway, lets not start a shitfight. Agree to disagree but I can tell you there ain't nothing wrong with my tune :uh-huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54658-pops-backfires/#findComment-1070890
Share on other sites

thats more a result of a sh|t tune.

my car doesnt pop/backfire or flame and it has no cat

I think you will find it has absolutely nothing to do with a sh!t tune. If in fact it’s probably a good tune if your car does pop/ blow out flame.

Because if it does then you know you don't run as much of a risk of leaning out your motor and killing it, as compared to no back fire, were you don't have enough fuel into the engine causing it to run lean.

If you watch the Japan drag racing I think you find just about every one of their cars running any were from GTS-T running 11 to GTR running low 8, pop and back fire every gear change. Because they tune them rich, for reliability.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54658-pops-backfires/#findComment-1071112
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...