Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i hope so! i think it all bolts up.  Kit comes with its own dump and all the lines. I think the one thing ill need is a new intake pipe as the compressor inlet mouth looks big, but im fairly sure its a blot on kit.

can someone with ~280rwkw comment on drivability? are these cars still fast at speeds below 100 or is it just wheelspin city?

While i love power, it makes you slower if you cant get it down!

Its very rare that on normal roads you open the car out to 7000rpm in every gear.

With the price of petrol these days i much prefer driving my gfriends car around day to day

300kw's is my power goal eventually also. Sounds like an awesome whack of power.,. As for bolt on turbo i have witnessed some TD06's on rb25's and they go well. IO have been in a r33 which had a HKS 3037s and microtech and cams etc and it made 350hp at wheels on 1 bar. Was rather quick but very wheelspiny. guess its personal choice on turbos.

Would it be a better idea if i was to say put garret gt2535 on my car rb25det,with usual mods,with a different size ar.Here is a reply that i got from horsepower in a box.com

I can do the GT2535 in the T3 flange internal gated for $1750, but not the

GT2530.

We also do a 500hp core unit with a .70 comp cover for the RB25 as a bolt on

Internal gate for $2150.

Regards

Is this option a good one for this turbo and motor with stock internals looking at running cams?What sort of spooling rpm time could i expect it to come onto boost from the upgraded version?

:)

For me i feel 250RWKW is perfect for the street/circuit. Only problem is finding a turbo that will hit full boost at a low rpm(say 3500-4000) and make that amount of power as well, Because we all know bigger turbos=big power=lots of lag. I think to achieve 250RWKW with a little lag(compared with stock) you'd need cams, ported head and port matched inlet and exhaust ports. All these help reduce the lag and up the power too. In my opinion ball bearing and being water and oil cooled is a must for the longterm, plus the ball bearing aspect helps in cutting lag.

Would it be a better idea if i was to say put garret gt2535 on my car rb25det,with usual mods,with a different size ar.Here is a reply that i got from horsepower in a box.com

I can do the GT2535 in the T3 flange internal gated for $1750, but not the

GT2530.

We also do a 500hp core unit with a .70 comp cover for the RB25 as a bolt on

Internal gate for $2150.

Regards

Is this option a good one for this turbo and motor with stock internals looking at running cams?What sort of spooling rpm time could i expect it to come onto boost from the upgraded version?

:D

Only probelm with these type of turbos is that you will always have boost control problems and sureg problems when trying to pump out alot of hp from a internal gated turbo!!

Only probelm with these type of turbos is that you will always have boost control problems and sureg problems when trying to pump out alot of hp from a internal gated turbo!!

is the reason being that in order to control boost pressure on a big turbo, an internal gate wont allow enough gas out to make the boost change needed?

From Grepins Thread, posted by SK regarding the GT2835proS

Hi grepin, I like it, it has....

270 rwkw at 7,300 rpm

277 rwkw at 6,300 rpm

246 rwkw at 5,300 rpm

210 rwkw at 4,300 rpm

That's an average of 251 rwkw over the useable rpm allowing for gearchanges. There are plenty of cars with over 300 rwkw that don't average 251 rwkw.

I think it would be a nice car to drive, fast and progressive.

BTW guys, notice this dyno run was not in Shoot Out Mode, so no ambient air temperature compensation. If it was a 31 degree day, then on a 19 degree day it's gunna make a smidge over 300 rwkw with an average around 270 rwkw.

Wanna guess what the A/F ratios would be then? In my opinion Mick has done a good job, looks to be both safe and powerful, you don't see that everyday.

As I said at the start, I like it!

trust33, bear in mind that Garret GT25 series are not the same as HKS GT25 series. for example to duplicate the ~250rwkw from a HKS GT2535 int gate youd need a Garret GT3040 int gate.

All because of the different compressor and turbine blade designs?

I have read that on sdu forums by mariogtr that whatever turbo i use the hks will allways flow closer to its full potential than a garret equivilent.He says somewere in the vicinity of 20hp is what you should take off of a garret turbos rating and it would give a better indication of what this turbo will pull.

Also being that all of these turbos are rated at stock boost 10psi or so.So there will be room for more power.

I say,now being that a stock rb25det turbo is rated at 250ps and has smaller .ar housings and includes ceramic bladed turbine,non ball bearing turbo and being able to see the power they can produce when pushed,that a garret or hks turbo with a better ps output to start will surely make arround 380-400 ps of what i am after.The only difference being that HKS will make it there easier.

If going an underrated turbo what are my chances of being able to elliminate/minimise lag and be able to come onto boost by 3500-3800 and still be able to make the desired 380-400hp/ps output int gate and run minimal boost?

Hks would be good but to be able to afford a brand new one i would have to buy from os.Have you seen hks-T au prices!meh..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...