Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There are no "Specs" available for a Cefiro, closet would have to be S13 Silvia. I know they are listed on most machines as I just had mine done.

Like too_much_boost said, post up your itemised bill if you have one, $700 sounds reasonable though.

  • Replies 199
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

wtf specs for a wheel alignment? very strange? unless you specify something they will generally even up the camber if possible, set toe to neutral or in a little if you are running a lot of camber to reduce tyre wear.

Final bill was actually $635 - they must have seen me and felt sorry for me and charged me less :) I think that's quite reasonable.

They did a great looking job which I'm very pleased with - only thing is I have an unidentified white powder on the catch can (too much partying from the engine bay?) and a helluva lotta spray dirt/mud inside the engine bay (between the engine and fan belt kinda area) which I don't remember having when I brought the car in.

Probably just dirt from the car sitting around while they were water hosing their garage - I hope :)

I'm disappointed with the "no specs" thing, whatever that is, it's not exactly a stock car but they said it's not in the computer? I told em use the specs for the silvia cos it should be the same they said no prob come back next week for $80 << that seems like a bloody good price if they're doing toe/camber/caster/the works which pedders wanted (i think) $120 for. So I think I'll go back next week with my settings. I'd really love to have all my settings written down so I can just say this is what I want for sure - anyone care to suggest some numbers for toe/camber/caster etc?

Apperantly they said I should also get me one of these things as with the rear camber kit installed my rear wheels sits 'out' a little bit-

rear_thing.jpg

The rear feels ... different with the pineapples and camber kit installed (mostly probably down to the pineapples). The new plugs seem to make it run nicer too - MUCH nicer. I like it so far but won't be able to see it in action till it's registered.

While I was there a guy with a GTR was getting a twin zorst system installed and I noticed he had a nice kakimoto muffler... I told them I'd like to purchase from him to fit on my car - which should make a little less loud without making it crap on open throttle. fingers crossed on that one :cheers:

Next installment: Engineering certificate ;)

Hey, If it's a older cefiro w/ a zenki harness you might want to check the ground to the back of the alternator. Another thing is there is a fuse in the engine bay, marked "main" you might want to check that. When the ground broke off on the back of mine, it blew just about all of my fuses, and melted a few relays. Did a check light (looks like high beams backwards) come on right before it caught fire?

Got my wheels aligned yesterday and got a before and after sheet of the settings. Thought it'd be good for a laugh-

Before

Camber L -4.11 R -3.07

Caster L 6.34 R 6.50

Toe L 7 R 7

Rear Camber L -4.04 R -3.22

Rear Toe L 6.0 R 6.0

After

Camber L -1.32 R -1.26

Caster L 7.33 R 6.52

Toe L -.05 R -.05

Rear Camber L -0.57 R -1.00

Rear Toe L 1.1 R 1.1

Question - after they've set it up why did they set up each side slightly different?

Car feels very different now. Better overall at mid speeds but in slowish (2nd gear) tight corners the car kinda bumps through the corner, keeping the grip like crazy but bumping through it... I'm not sure if performance wise it's the quickest way through the corner but it feels tough :)

I will have to "test" properly at a track - which I can only get to when the car is registered. Still. Feels alot nicer now.

Yeah it is mechanical and yeah it's very tight so tight corners it skips HEAPS... whole car lunges up almost.. It just wasn't noticable before the alignment as much because the car felt like it sat more on the front wheels (with 4 degrees neg camber it makes sense).

Now when I go round the same corner it's not like the rear "slinks" after the front as much, it's more like the front falls into line where I want it to go and the rear half slinks and half bumps into place.

Might be the combination of wheel alignment and pineapples :)

My only thing is the garage said it's a 'sealed diff' and they can't change the oil :

When I get it engineered and rego'ed I'll be able to "test" more.

Well with rego out the next step in engineering will be getting documents from meggala for proof of purchase which he is sending tommorow woot!!

Armed with that I should be able to get through engineering next week and hopefully without any major hurdles there :

Finally someone said what I was thinking. *sigh* why oh why can't I ever seem to find a decent garage!?

It would be extremely unusual to have a diff whose oil can't be changed :) However, the easiest way to check is to stick your head under the car and look for a drain plug on the (rear, I assume) diff. If its in the standards R200 enclosure as per a lot of Nissans, it should be dead obvious.

LW.

  • 4 weeks later...

Was taking my car for a run yesterday (to keep it running nicely) and when I pulled it out of 3rd to put into 4th.. well.. something felt very very bad.

I had a hard time pulling it out and now 4th feels very squishy, and while it stays in there and seems to be putting power to the ground but it feels very very wrong (squishy/soft/no defined clicking in). I can push it out from 4th with no clutch at any rev quite easily too.

lol

Funny thing is silver my car is running better than ever.

It's the most reliable it's ever been, the cleanest and the best setup.

All I need now is engineering, blue slip, pink slip and I'm laughin.. my 4th gear is behavin now. So after that I'll try to reco the gearbox and that's it.

It's just that to get this far it's cost me too much and I've run out of cash for engineering+rego lol

weel good luck with it, lets hope soon we'll get to see it doing what it was built for

Funny thing is silver my car is running better than ever.

It's the most reliable it's ever been, the cleanest and the best setup.

All I need now is engineering, blue slip, pink slip and I'm laughin.. my 4th gear is behavin now. So after that I'll try to reco the gearbox and that's it.

It's just that to get this far it's cost me too much and I've run out of cash for engineering+rego lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...