Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SK;

Thanks, I've not seen anyone quote their experience with this conversion. Problem is that, as mentioned previously, while I agree it's a great idea (hence my interest) and YOU can do it, that doesn't mean that a lot of others can. And as you don't own a workshop I can't ask you to. Your position and a lot of others people's is very different in that respect. Re the RIPS girdle I sent a message to them on that subject and got no response. Agree your point re sellers of aftermarket gear but it gets back to the simple question of 'who doesn't have an aftermarket agenda and can do the job properly'. I have received advice from someone who runs a large outlet and has extensive experience with GTRs. I also know he won't try to sell me gear I don't need, and he said 'stay away' because it's not worth the grief of the detail to get it really right.

Dror;

My experience matches yours with advice from the better known workshops. Issues with block/girdle prep = big $ and when AVO says 'there's a lot to it if you want to get the little things right on a road car' you know it's going to hurt your wallet like hell. I've been quoted $15k to have it done properly drive in, drive out. Even taking off a bit for engine in/out and dissasembly by me it still seems like a lot when considering, as SK correctly pointed out, that RB 30 parts are often cheaper.

Purple32;

Thanks I'll try them I've heard Ben is very good.

Appreciate the advice guys, thanks.

My experience matches yours with advice from the better known workshops. Issues with block/girdle prep = big $ and when AVO says 'there's a lot to it if you want to get the little things right on a road car' you know it's going to hurt your wallet like hell.

I would ask;

What are the exact issues with "block/girdle prep"?

What are "the little things" that you have to get "right on a road car"?

From my experience there are just as many "little things to get right" on an RB26. In fact there are more, because to get the same power you have to rev the RB26 to 20% higher rpm. That means 9,600 rpm instead of 8,000 rpm. If it's an RB28 that means 11% more rpm. These are not insignificant increases.

Have you considered their effect on transmission ratios? You really should shorten the final drive ratio, that means the 2 diff ratios need changing. The speedo will need recalibrating. The clutch needs to be capable of handling the 20% higher launch rpm. You will need heavier valve springs, that will mean more camshaft lobe wear, valve seat pounding etc

When I did the first RB30 in a GTR 4+ years ago, I looked at ALL of the issues and made the decision accordingly.

:P

The extra torque from the RB30 would make all the difference on a street, track oriented car.

If you are going for the maximum hp a block can support than things are different. For this reason, Mario's car is totally irrelevant.

If you want 500hp, a stock RB26 will do the job.

If you want 7-800hp why wouldn't you want the extra 400cc...?

Mario's GTR700 is a 2.7 isn't it? Fastest in Southern Hemisphere.

There is a HUGE difference between revving an engine for 8-9 seconds and revving it for tens of minutes on end around a track.

There is a HUGE difference between revving an engine for 8-9 seconds and revving it for tens of minutes on end around a track.

You point is very true, but it can be argued that you don't have to run 1200hp on the track, hence you don't have to rev to 12000rpm or whatever Mario's car rev to.

If a 750hp RB 26 was going to cost me as much as the 750hp RB30, I would go with the RB30.

Mario's car can rev to something like 13,000 odd rpm, cant it? Larger capacity doesn't like to rev so hard, thats why his car is only 2.7L probly....

What use will the motor have; drag, curcuit, street??, that might infulence your decision a bit more...

With that many VL's out there doing fast 1/4 mile times with tough rb30's, i'll be going for it :)

With that many VL's out there doing fast 1/4 mile times with tough rb30's, i'll be going for it :)

Considering Mario's 33 and Danny's VL are both in the high 8's says alot about the strength and potential of the RB30 even with the crappy single cam head.

I would ask;

What are the exact issues with "block/girdle prep"?  

What are "the little things" that you have to get "right on a road car"?

From my experience there are just as many "little things to get right" on an RB26. In fact there are more, because to get the same power you have to rev the RB26 to 20% higher rpm.  That means 9,600 rpm instead of 8,000 rpm.  If it's an RB28 that means 11% more rpm.   These are not insignificant increases.

Have you considered their effect on transmission ratios?  You really should shorten the final drive ratio, that means the 2 diff ratios need changing.  The speedo will need recalibrating.  The clutch needs to be capable of handling the 20% higher launch rpm.  You will need heavier valve springs, that will mean more camshaft lobe wear, valve seat pounding etc

When I did the first RB30 in a GTR 4+ years ago, I looked at ALL of the issues and made the decision accordingly.

:)

SK;

the people from whom I've sought advice, in suggesting that there are 'little things' you have to get right on a road car including those you've mentioned (wouldn't I have to change diff ratios and speedo recal with an RB30 anywayas it revs lower?) also suggested that there's a lot of machining work to be done - far more than a good RB26 build. I've read the RB30 thread and buggered if I can really see it but that might not mean much either. As I said it's difficult to find and gte access to people who have done this conversion on a GTR. AVO couldn't even give me a ballpark on the phone, I had to call them back a week later.

re block issues, there are two things that I understand can be a problem. one is cracking due to greater torque/ torsional stress in a 4wd (they had no concerns in a 2wd) and the other, as Dror has found, is the $ to address this issue. which leads us back to the issue of 'while you can do it not everyone can, but you can't build me a motor and the people that we have access to, and can, want huge $'.

yep I'd love to try it because I agree it makes such good sense and the torque - presumably - is quite awesome but at this point, for a 4wd road car seeking to make about 400 rwkw it doesn't seem viable/worth the angst to do the conversion.

Cheers

  • 3 months later...

I dont know how old this thread is it was sent to me by another member, but i have personally made my own block adaptor/girddle to perform the rb26 sump rb30 block conversion and although the car is not running that has no bearing on the fact my solution works and is cheap. There are a few minor issues that need to be addressed but even if you payed the most ridiculous labour prices i can't see the price of making the engine fit the sump using my plate coming out and anymore than $1300-1500 including the plate!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...