Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

just got back the results of the flow tests between the rb20 standard manifold and the hks cast manifold will mark these 1 to six front to back

standard HKS cast

1. 159.7 170.7

2. 162.4 166.6

3. 160.7 178.7

4. 150.6 183.6

5. 149.9 182.2

6. 173.3 184.7

As you can see all flow pretty well and a marked inprovement over standard but you'll have to draw your own conclusions if the flow improvement is what your after for the cost although afe did state the these are very well made the casting quality was some of the best his seen and flow extremely well for a cast manifold a worthwile investment over standard and he was kinda wondering why they stoped making them . One other thing he said to me was not to tell anyone you have one as he said you'd probably surprise some people with the way the car goes even in standard form to say the least i think it impressed him and that statment coming from someone who deals with these sorts of things daily makes for an impressive statement

Cheers Peter

So who can tell me the internal diameters of the Rb20DE, RB20DET, RB25DE, RB25DET and VG45 throttle bodies?

I figure the Mitsu boys love boring out their throttle bodies for a few extra kws...

And has anyone looked at the alignment of inlet manifold to the head? I figure if the extrude honing isnt too expensive then i will get the inlet manifold flowed, match port it to the head, throw a bigger throttle body on it and see how it goes....

I looked at the inlet manifold porting to the head when i fitted my motor up together. Basically there was sfa difference. I just took out the 1 or 2 mm here and there that was the difference. I was suprised how well the std nissan stuff was matched Roy. Using the gasket as a template and a rotary tool it took only like a few mins to get it spot on...

Extrude honing the inlet would be good as well as the exhaust manifold. As far as i know the tb is about 2.5" (same as ic piping/afm ~80mm) and the VH45 is about 90mm (same as the afm)

Edited by Bl4cK32

Several years ago (there is thread on it), we flow bench tested a standard RB20 cylinder head, inlet manifold plenum and throttle body up to airflow sufficient to make 500 bhp. It showed no improvement when we removed the throttle body completely. So fitting a larger diameter throttle body is a waste of time and money until at least 300 rwkw is reached. It maybe even more than that, we stopped testing at 500 bhp.

:) cheers :D

Funny you say, the new baby is shooting for 300-330rwkws, so whilst its all apart may take the time for a small improvement here and there

i take it your not doin that on std internals? I was thinking of trying a hks 2835 pro or hks gt-rs and see what sort of number i can pull with a low mount

hopefully soon we'll see how a HKS Fcon V Pro will perform on a RB20 minus AFM...

already seen. performs well, thats IF you can find someone to tune it. atm i'm waiting on a tuner over here in SA that says he's trying to develop some software for it. other than that its only BD4s that can tune them AFAIK.

as soon as i can get it tuned the turbo will be downsized.

KKK-K27@12psi

post-1089-1138344910.jpg

already seen. performs well, thats IF you can find someone to tune it. atm i'm waiting on a tuner over here in SA that says he's trying to develop some software for it. other than that its only BD4s that can tune them AFAIK.

as soon as i can get it tuned the turbo will be downsized.

KKK-K27@12psi

bd4's is the plan

hope the dont shut down! lol

fwiw hks gt3037 = gt30r.

i cant wait to get my engine back together, with proper compression (175psi vs 140psi) the turbo should come on harder and faster with better response.

least i hope it does.

Without a doubt it'll be alot faster.

You can get an 044 to fit internal - I've got 1 in my '33.

Bit more stuffing around but possible.

so i can get the 044 to be an intank pump? would it be just the same as installing the 019? the 019 was a fairly long pump...im just asking as everywhere ive researched everyone keeps saying its an external pump...so im just clarifying

thanks

chris

I have a q45 trotthle body right here. Its 85 mm on the inlet side and 83mm at the valve side.

Was planning to use it on my rb20det after the head is flowed and a custom manifold is mounted, but maybe its a bit to big. Maybe trade it for a rb25 body orso.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
    • It sounds like you want what the Toyota Landcruisers have for their roof racks. Wanna know what you end up with? Rust holes in the roof, and water everywhere...
    • Discovered today that if I select reverse first and take my foot off the brake, then select drive, the drive indicator light works and so does the tiptronic gear indicator. 
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Does anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
×
×
  • Create New...