Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have a R33 GTS25T with minimal mods. HKS exhaust from cat back and pod filter. I spoke to a tuner who advised me that if I was to spend $5k then the best thing to do would be a new ECU (cost of $3,000 tuned), FMIC ($2,000) and dump pipe for $400. Does this seem reasonable and logical?

Is $3k for the ECU good value. Would it be just as good and cheaper to get a GReddy e-manage or something like that.

How much additional power can I get from a different ECU alone? Is it possible to get more power while increasing the fuel efficiency?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58802-is-this-advice-right/
Share on other sites

i think those prices are very high.. Im in Melbourne however I believe the following would be closer to the mark:

Apexi PFC: $1500 Fitted and tuned

Front Pipe and Highflow Cat: $600 fitted

FMIC: Max $1500

Boost Controller: $80

Prices are for new items.

With what you already have as well as Computer, Cooler and Exhaust you should be close to the 200rwkw mark with better fuel economy.

That is my current setup on 12-13psi and i am currently getting about 12L/100km city driving and 9L/100km freeway.

You will notice a huge difference in the way the car feels.

i think those prices are very high.. Im in Melbourne however I believe the following would be closer to the mark:

Apexi PFC: $1500 Fitted

Front Pipe and Highflow Cat: $600 fitted

FMIC: Max $1500

Boost Controller: $80

Prices are for new items.

With what you already have as well as Computer, Cooler and Exhaust you should be close to the 200rwkw mark with better fuel economy.

That is my current setup on 12-13psi and i am currently getting about 12L/100km city driving and 9L/100km freeway.

You will notice a huge difference in the way the car feels.

Just don't forget to add at least $400 for the PFC to be tuned to the above list.

a PowerFC is $1100 delivered, and they come with a H/C, you cant buy them anymoer separate. They are a package now.

Tuning should be around $500

With your left over cash, i suggest you look at a new clutch if yours is stock as it wont last too long with the new found power.

And if you still have cash, then look at brakes before looking to upgrade turbo, thats just my opinion. I like to go fast, but i like to stop faster

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
×
×
  • Create New...