Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

List as of Castrol oils as follows

Engine Castrol formula R 10/60

Gearbox Syntrans 75w/85

Transfer case Transmax Z

Front Diff Syntrax 75w/90

Rear diff SAF-XA 80W-140

4wd TRANSMAX Z

pwr steer TRANSMAX Z

Brake super response dot 4

Clutch super response dot 4

This is what i use in my own GTR and it gets a hard life and still lives

Theo

hi, I was told by Gavin that you can use dexron III for the attessa resovoir, I tried getting hold of this 'nissan special power steering fluid' from two nissan dealers in Brisbane and one of them used to sell the R32 GTRS and they didnt have a clue about the fluid.

Were you able to actually get some?

I have used the dexron III in my attessa and if anything the 4wd is coming on much quicker (also have new tyres which are a week old - which may be contributing, just getting grippy now).

P.S. Make sure the rear diff has Limited slip dif oil in it, from memory the castrol oil recomendation card in the shop is wrong. It should be LSX 90, i actually emailed them to find out, if you want to be sure email them to find specs.

above is in regard to an R32 GTS4

Stephen

coolant: Nulon. The green one. I think they just call it "nulon long-life". It's good sh1t and was recomended to me by the guy who built my calsonic twin core radiator. He said in his experience it is also not reactive with other coolants, which is important since you wont know what was in it.

mmmgtir: Thanks for the tip. I have also heard that Redline Water Wetter is good stuff too.

Parag0n: I am planning to get the radiator flushed and will dump all the water/coolant, and start again with new coolant and demineralised water :)

LW.

Ok, just looked through the service manual and it recommends the following for the diffs:

Front Final Drive (F160): GL-5 85W-90 (~1l)

Rear Final Drive (R200): GL-5 80W-90 (1.5l)

Rather irritating the front and rear have different requirements. 80W-90 seems to be easy enough to find; anyone know who makes an 85W-90 product?

Edit: Just thinking about it, the front is open and the rear is mechanical. So should the front oil just be a standard diff/gear oil, and the rear a special LSD oil (ie. additional friction additives)?

Lucien.

You can use LSD oil in the front as well .

I use premixed coolant saves the macking around to get the water .

Basicaly any brand as long as its minimum 33% , 50 % is better and it will last longer too .

You will need about 8 lts if you empty the heater as well as the block .

Okie Dokie. Having now changed the gearbox and transfer case oils I can say the following:

* My gearbox needed just over 4 litres of oil. If you plan to use Redline Lightweight Shockproof be aware that the large containers are 3.7l not 4l bottles. I bought an additional an additional small bottle (~0.9l) so I had some extra.

* My transfer case needed about 1.5 litres of oil. I used Castrol Transmax Z: I purchased two of the 1 litre bottles.

Interestingly the gearbox oil looked filthy while the transfer case oil looked almost new. Thankfully there were almost no shavings whatsoever on the welsh plug magnets for either :P

I am still entirely confused about what diff oil to go for. I double checked the Nissan workshop manual and it lists standard diff oil for the front and LSD oil for the rear. I can quite easily get 85W-140 and SAE90 LSD oils, but nowhere seems to stock anything close to 85W-90.

Finally, can someone explain the ATESSA actuator too me? Its different to the rear diff and transfer case, right? I might see if I can track down some of this "Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special" unless anyone can recommend something else (or counter the comment made by GTR V)?

Cheers,

Lucien.

  • 2 weeks later...

Slightly old post - but anyhow - I obtained some "Special Blend Matic-D" ATF from my local Nissan dealer (Moorabbin, VIC out on Napean Hwy). Number listed on front of the bottle is 10130-89901A if that helps at all.

Paul

Okie Dokie.  Having now changed the gearbox and transfer case oils I can say the following:

* My gearbox needed just over 4 litres of oil.  If you plan to use Redline Lightweight Shockproof be aware that the large containers are 3.7l not 4l bottles.  I bought an additional an additional small bottle (~0.9l) so I had some extra.

* My transfer case needed about 1.5 litres of oil.  I used Castrol Transmax Z: I purchased two of the 1 litre bottles.

Interestingly the gearbox oil looked filthy while the transfer case oil looked almost new.  Thankfully there were almost no shavings whatsoever on the welsh plug magnets for either :thumbsup:

I am still entirely confused about what diff oil to go for.  I double checked the Nissan workshop manual and it lists standard diff oil for the front and LSD oil for the rear.  I can quite easily get 85W-140 and SAE90 LSD oils, but nowhere seems to stock anything close to 85W-90.

Finally, can someone explain the ATESSA actuator too me? Its different to the rear diff and transfer case, right?  I might see if I can track down some of this "Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special" unless anyone can recommend something else (or counter the comment made by GTR V)?

Cheers,

Lucien.

Slightly old post - but anyhow - I obtained some "Special Blend Matic-D" ATF from my local Nissan dealer (Moorabbin, VIC out on Napean Hwy). Number listed on front of the bottle is 10130-89901A if that helps at all.

Paul

Thanks Paul: does it have any other marking on the packet/bottle?

LW.

I only have a 1 litre bottle (about $8) but I think they said they had a 4 or 5 litre available.

Black squarish bottle - white sticker usual red/blue stripes - says:

Nissan

Automatic Transmission Fluid

Special Blend

Matic-D

Part number on the invoice is the number in my last post. Bottle also mentions to use it as power steering fluid for R32 GTR.

They told me that this is the stuff to use for the HICAS reservoir.

Paul

Thanks Paul: does it have any other marking on the packet/bottle?

LW.

  • 1 year later...

Hi after reading this post im now a little confused, WTF ???

I have been running transmax z (ATF) in my front diff of my 33GTRVSPEC

I looked it up at auto Pro in Newcastle in one of there oil charts and transmax z was recomended for the 32GTR front diff.

I also spoke to Guys that tune my car and they also recomended transmax z and aparently they put it in all the GTR's ,,,

is anyone else running transmax z ( ATF ) in there front diff ?????

should i change it ASAP ???

Thanks

  • 3 years later...
The reason I posted it up the 2nd time is because you asked the question after I had already put the answer there the 1st time.

I am only tryimg to help you.

GTR V

I just recently brought 5 litres of nissan D matic fluid for my transfer case. It states on the back of the container that it is also used in the R32 gtr power sterring. It cost me $66.00 from nissan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...