Jump to content
SAU Community

Selling your r33?


Recommended Posts

Just wandering if anyone is having issues selling their R33 at the moment. I am not sure if it is the time of year, my price or just a stagnant market, but it seems that noone wants to buy a skyline, an excellent skyline at that.

My car is for sale in the for sale section of this site, on the carsales.com.au, and has also been in the trading post. I am thinking of taking it to international car connections on parramatta road, anyone dealt with these guys?

Is anyone else having the same problems as me, my car is in the sweet spot of 20 500 for series 1 r33 in excellent condition with the following mods: blitz exhaust, 18in rims, blitz pod, boost guage, stereo. You can see the ad for a full list.

What are anyones thoughts on this? Anything would be appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hate to be the one to tell you, but when buying a car people look at these things in order of PREFERENCE.

1. Price

2. Year

3. Kilometers/Condition

4. Mods / No mods

Your car doesnt stack up on the first three, particularly no. 1. Even though your cars condition and mods might make up for it, you are not getting any calls because people are skipping past your ad to the late model Series II for 18 grand that may not be in as good condition as yours or have as many mods.

As you should probably know, dont expect to get any money back for your modifications.

Sorry to be the one to tell you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well i've sold my skyline a while ago .. i guess i was lucky cause the day i put the ad in the paper ... some guy called me up at 8 in the morning and basically bought it then and there ...

but i also agree with pentae ... 20k+ is a little high for a series 1 imho, no matter how good the condition. unless it had good amount of upgrades ie turbo and computer at least, then i think your price is not very competitive with everyone else. And also colour is a big one too ... ie i'm sure that black and silver skylines go much quicker than other colours and that most skylines i've seen in the street are burgandy for some reason ...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you see R33s for sale for around $15k.

Not many people are going to look further, especially the $20k+ mark.

Most owners are just boy racers and will take whatever they can get cheap and flog that out.

To find a genuine buyer who is interested in the bigger picture, it will take a while, especially being an import, hard to get parts, hard to insure, boy racer image, blah blah...

I've seen GTR's for just a tad over $20k mark now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hipster: Its smart to ask for the advice, selling your pride and joy can be a painful experience. I was horrified that I could only get $12500 for my absolutely beautiful '92 nissan silvia turbo. It was worth so much more in my heart.

I was also amazed that I could not sell my Nissan Pulsar GTIR for anything over the $16k mark, and only just recently sold it for $15,800. Trust me: Its not worth having a car for sale for 6 months.. after about month 7 you just want to get rid of it, and then you might do something stupid like take ANY old price!

I would recommend stripping the cars stereo and as many modifications as you possibly can, and drop the price down to the mid-to-high teen mark. Having these items lying around on your garage floor also makes great negotiation tools once the buyer has test driven your car and its time to talk the sphincter of the universe. Throwing in a set of speakers or turbo timer etc. is a great incentive for them to buy your car over the one down the road..

As I mentioned before, you cant expect other people to pay for your mods. A lot of buyers are looking for a stock standard example because they are believed not to have been thrashed.

And as RB30 put it, put yourself in the buyers shoes.. what makes your car worth $5k more than the others in the buyers eyes? I imagine most potential buyers would rather spend the change on mods :P

Yes, there are other Series I r33's for sale for the high teens to early 20s mark, but theres a good chance they've been rotting on the carsales/carpoint/tradingpost listings for over half a year... And if you see them dissapear that doesnt mean they got sold for asking price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the advice guys. I thought my price was probably the factor behind the lack of interest. Just hard to let your pride and joy go for anything less than what you think it is worth, but I guess at the end of the day what the owner thinks its worth and what the market states its worth are always going to be two completely different things.

Has anyone ever sold there car to a dealership? If so which one?

Last question, what do people find to be the best ways to sell there cars. I have used the trading post, has anyone used somewhere like national car connections that takes your car and sells it on there lot for a small fee.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you see R33s for sale for around $15k.

Not many people are going to look further, especially the $20k+ mark.

Most owners are just boy racers and will take whatever they can get cheap and flog that out.

yeah, very true i think these days.. there is the tight-ass market.. who wants the image... then those that are willing to pay a bit more and end up owning the car for more than 6 months.

hard to sell an r33 these days, so many around, so many of different varieties, and so many low prices with people desperate sale to pay back debts, go overseas, etc.

That is why I sold my r33.. saw it coming a bit.. but i was lucky even then to get a good price.

Unfortunately, soon as you buy it, you're going to lose money.. people need to realise that. The "out of the showroom" applies a little to older cars in someways.. have to sometimes expect to take a $3 or $4k hit to price it for a reasonably quick sale, even if you only bought it 6 months ago.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply, I think that you are definately right about taking it to a dealer. It was just a thought. Just seems to take forever to find a buyer for the car. I had someone ring me this morning and offer 15 000 for it. There was no way I was accepting that sort of cash. I will be pretty sad to see the car go, but I will definately be keeping in the skyline family with a sexy r32 that I am purchasing off of a friend.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i believe that most people have a budget of of no more than about 18 grand for a series 1, at your lowered price if you advertise in the trading post you should get some interest..

with a budget of 20grand or more people are really looking to buy a series 2 i would say.

i sold my series 2 about 10 months ago in about a month, buyer came of carsales and paid 22 grand it was pretty stock..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, I think the trading post first thing after xmas is the best way to go. I am beginning to start building up my mates r32 in my head but need to sell this one first. There is something undeniabley fun about getting a new car, especially when you get to start the modifying process again. Will be getting into drift a bit hopefully, so I figure the r32 is a good place to start.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there seems to be a huge recession in import prices at the moment. SI r33s are selling for as low as 15 and under, r32's as low as 10, and silvias even less than that. Maybe it could be a good idea to keep it for another 6 months maybe?? see if the market improves at all?? thats just my uneducated guess at it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For a different perspective, geographically anyway, this does'nt seem to be the case over here in WA: R33's, while very common, will sell relatively stock for around the $15-17k mark. R32's are still pretty rare here (how about you other states?) and as such are fetching pretty high prices. When they are for sale (never!) they get snapped up pretty quickly.

Perhaps people over here have a different buying mentality (I can't really see how they would...) or other states have a shitload more imports, but yeah, its quite a healthy market here atm.

any interest hipster?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No offense hipster but it might be wise to bite the bullet and let it go at mkt price.

I would like to advise using the general rule of thumb of the average asking price of an R33 S1 u see on the market and mebbe adding 1k at most on top of that, regardless of mods or condition. No one here wants to hurt your pride and joy but the reality is, regardless of how immaculate your car may be, no one will pay a 3-4k premium ovr the average asking price for that. The longer u drag this with a mentality that you will not let it go below a certain price, the higher the costs u incur from depreciation, rego, insurance, maintence etc etc.

Just an idea of how tings are, i sold my 93 "immaculate" r32 in 2001 for 17.1k

Somehow after that the market dropped and my flate mate managed to secure an R33 S1 in reasonable condition (scratches on paint, 170k km) for 14k in 2002.

Its hard to see how anyone will pay 18k for an S1 unless of cos, lady luck shines upon u and u manage to secure someone who buys with his heart and not his head. (which is difficult becos r33s are not rare either...infact too common)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had a similar situation with my R32 GTS4. I replaced that solenoid, but it hasn't solved the problem. So its possible the pump is failing. It seems you need to drop the diff in order to do anything that might fix this. So its important to know exactly what the problem is. Or just replace / repair everything while the diff is out.
    • Yep, I was supprised. Its all about flow rather then housing size.  Doing G35-900 Vs ATR45SS-1 Next. 62mm V 61mm. 
    • Of course sometimes you cannot go with the cheaper alternative but I try to weigh it up for the application - am I competing or am I going to the track ten times p/yr. As long as there’s enough information out there to back the cheaper alternative as a good option I’ll go for that.   I’m a bit of a bastard though as it’s my job to reduce costs, particularly on non income generating assets. EUR 500 saved for the diff + EUR 1,000 saved on BC racing over Bilstein and then say EUR 300 versus EUR 600 on an off brand windscreen versus OEM (for example) soon accumulates. I mean, I’m probably gonna put the car in the ditch anyway. Absolutely do not take this as a justification for always buying cheap shitty parts, just a rationale for doing your research and considering what’s necessary for your application.    
    • All the above effort, time, swapping out parts in the dark (i.e. no O2 data). You're literally running in the dark.
    • Looks like both of my cars have pressure switch issues. The R32 GTR has 18 flashes on the ATTESSA controller which is "ETS pressure switch circuit". The 4WD light is intermittent, and often just restarting the car clears it. There is an $300 replacement option https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/285675135148?itmmeta=01HXN3YKRGKQ08GRZ5KFKKZWJT&hash=item428390a0ac:g:6CcAAOSwWxBltMEG so if it becomes a permanent issue and I can confirm that the switch is the issue, i have a solution. The NM35 is reporting C1208, and disconnecting the switch causes the 4WD light to go away. Translating from the Japanese shop manual "when the pressure is reduced to 2.6MPa (377 psi) or less: conduction occurs when the pressure increases to 3.8MPa (550 psi) or less: conduction is present. Reference: • Immediately after the E-TS actuator motor stops, the pressure inside the accumulator is high and there is no continuity." Not sure how good the translation is but from what i can deduce this means the switch is normally closed (NC) and as the pressure builds from 0 to 550 psi the switch stays closed, then opens and 550 psi. As the pressure drops from 550 psi to 377 psi the switch stays open then closes again at 377 psi. Is that how these things work? These pressures are a lot higher than the R32 ("control pressure 0-228 psi") but i'm hoping i can find a generic switch (like they've done for the R32) to use as a replacement. Maybe something like https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/355586397452?epid=1676016964&itmmeta=01HXN534AF22ACTG6TGDDQGEQ7&hash=item52ca99d50c:g:mAEAAOSw8ilmBcMh&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LtWdNlWHgyJ%2F3cbw25S2A1lde3qBi3fJii4T3lQavCz4kpqiD42SmBa4FocMvXCjcxiowHjb8vZ8%2BWxc53BkHv781tkStSnCDaenfGKC3bIp0keK20dfsn9LoPa3TfqaEmAydqqyKobgTdXsGGzsl%2BRjOVGuD8OIpOv%2B0wMl7aUtHg0iJtojbtzA%2BRS8Xfm8Ufjuvz4niwrqglAXFUbkL6J%2FGuHPeeECZhLBBN3iNM1Swl94Fv5zE95YK%2B5O6dxDN1ySNOjdMxkA8yaprbuwRHFQv1nlGh%2FWjekj6EUFR2%2FO4HTsoKtSAkY0Mj1w1uf1w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6zFjKXtYw but with a lower close pressure, and thread adapter if required. Am i dreaming?
×
×
  • Create New...