Jump to content
SAU Community

Roof Racks


Sydneykid
 Share

Recommended Posts

Has anyone found the right profile roof racks to fit the standard rails? I have had a look at a few in my local SupaCrap, the Nissan Navara looks like it might be close.

Merry Xmas fellow Stageans:cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did someone say Navara?

Hi Duncan, Merry Xmas, do you have a Navara handy that you can measure the profile of the roof rails? Surely Nissan didn't make a unique profile just for Stageas:cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, very handy.  Exactly what do i need to measure?  It currently has roof racks on as well :D

You convinced my out of a Stagea so I got a navara to tow with instead ;)

I didn't think I was convincing you out of a Stagea, I really like mine. Except I can't find a decent tow bar manufacturer in Sydney. But that's not the Stagea's fault.

The standard Stagea roof rails are triangular shape. Using the verniers, they are 35 mm on the outside and 30 mm on the underside and inside. That's ignoring the rounded corners. Maybe compare that with your Navara.:cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sydney Kid, Thule make very nice racks to clamp onto the roof rails on Stageas, the good ones (aerodynamic) are about $180 per cross bar and then you can get heaps of 'bolt-ons' like ski, bike carriers etc.

Thanks, where can I get Thule stuff from? :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sydney Kid, Thule make very nice racks to clamp onto the roof rails on Stageas, the good ones (aerodynamic) are about $180 per cross bar and then you can get heaps of 'bolt-ons' like ski, bike carriers etc.

Hi Prank, do they have a listing for Stageas? If not what did you ask for? :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The Thule part numbers for the Stagea are as follows:

Thule Foot pack #755

Thule Aero Bar #861 (120cm bar)

The Thule International parts manual lists the wrong size bar for Stagea 97 on - it lists the longest bar which is too wide for the car. The above part number fits - I have them on my car now. Cost is around $250.

:D

  • Nope 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Thule part numbers for the Stagea are as follows:

Thule Foot pack #755

Thule Aero Bar #861 (120cm bar)

The Thule International parts manual lists the wrong size bar for Stagea 97 on - it lists the longest bar which is too wide for the car. The above part number fits - I have them on my car now. Cost is around $250.

:)

Thanks for that, off to the local Auto One store I go......will post pictures when fitted.:D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

S1 and S2 should be the same as the changes made to the car were cosmetic and any changes to the physical cabin structure would be too expensive to implement mid life which is why lots of cars get nose and bum jobs.

so in theory unless nissan was pouring money down the sink on mid life upgrades then yeah they should fit.

anyone post up a pic of the roof rack on their car pretty please :)

:(

Glenn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
The Thule part numbers for the Stagea are as follows:

Thule Foot pack #755

Thule Aero Bar #861 (120cm bar)

The Thule International parts manual lists the wrong size bar for Stagea 97 on - it lists the longest bar which is too wide for the car. The above part number fits - I have them on my car now. Cost is around $250.

:nyaanyaa:

I had 135 mm bars on my series 1 and accommodated a 6oo litre top box and a sea kayak if I offset the kayak to one side of the rails, using Thule kayak holders. This gave me no problems and I drove thousands of km's like that loaded up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now can anyone help me re the M35 and fitting a roof rack that is not the Nissan issue one?

I tried Thule and they have no standard fittings that suit. Prices are steep if I have to adapt a Thule but I wish to use my Thule fittings that I already have.

If I drop the $700 odd that I need for the Nissan one can anybody confirm that it is the satandard Euro sized bar and will suit my attachments? Or can I just get the roof fitting and use my existing bars?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I just got a set of roof racks for my Series 2 Stagea and wanted to advise other owners that these fit perfectly;

"Jetbag" brand. Owned and made by Thule (Sweden), 3 yr warr

Model- Complete 6501

Black 126cm long with black foot kit

Lockable

75 Kg rating (very good)

Got them through these guys based in NSW - $105 delivered (less than 1/2 the price of ROLA, THULE and the other major brands).

http://www.roofrackworld.com.au/

More info here.

http://www.jetbag.com/

Apperently the same as the current model Toyota RAV 4 with roof rails.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, I was supprised. Its all about flow rather then housing size.  Doing G35-900 Vs ATR45SS-1 Next. 62mm V 61mm. 
    • Of course sometimes you cannot go with the cheaper alternative but I try to weigh it up for the application - am I competing or am I going to the track ten times p/yr. As long as there’s enough information out there to back the cheaper alternative as a good option I’ll go for that.   I’m a bit of a bastard though as it’s my job to reduce costs, particularly on non income generating assets. EUR 500 saved for the diff + EUR 1,000 saved on BC racing over Bilstein and then say EUR 300 versus EUR 600 on an off brand windscreen versus OEM (for example) soon accumulates. I mean, I’m probably gonna put the car in the ditch anyway. Absolutely do not take this as a justification for always buying cheap shitty parts, just a rationale for doing your research and considering what’s necessary for your application.    
    • All the above effort, time, swapping out parts in the dark (i.e. no O2 data). You're literally running in the dark.
    • Looks like both of my cars have pressure switch issues. The R32 GTR has 18 flashes on the ATTESSA controller which is "ETS pressure switch circuit". The 4WD light is intermittent, and often just restarting the car clears it. There is an $300 replacement option https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/285675135148?itmmeta=01HXN3YKRGKQ08GRZ5KFKKZWJT&hash=item428390a0ac:g:6CcAAOSwWxBltMEG so if it becomes a permanent issue and I can confirm that the switch is the issue, i have a solution. The NM35 is reporting C1208, and disconnecting the switch causes the 4WD light to go away. Translating from the Japanese shop manual "when the pressure is reduced to 2.6MPa (377 psi) or less: conduction occurs when the pressure increases to 3.8MPa (550 psi) or less: conduction is present. Reference: • Immediately after the E-TS actuator motor stops, the pressure inside the accumulator is high and there is no continuity." Not sure how good the translation is but from what i can deduce this means the switch is normally closed (NC) and as the pressure builds from 0 to 550 psi the switch stays closed, then opens and 550 psi. As the pressure drops from 550 psi to 377 psi the switch stays open then closes again at 377 psi. Is that how these things work? These pressures are a lot higher than the R32 ("control pressure 0-228 psi") but i'm hoping i can find a generic switch (like they've done for the R32) to use as a replacement. Maybe something like https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/355586397452?epid=1676016964&itmmeta=01HXN534AF22ACTG6TGDDQGEQ7&hash=item52ca99d50c:g:mAEAAOSw8ilmBcMh&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LtWdNlWHgyJ%2F3cbw25S2A1lde3qBi3fJii4T3lQavCz4kpqiD42SmBa4FocMvXCjcxiowHjb8vZ8%2BWxc53BkHv781tkStSnCDaenfGKC3bIp0keK20dfsn9LoPa3TfqaEmAydqqyKobgTdXsGGzsl%2BRjOVGuD8OIpOv%2B0wMl7aUtHg0iJtojbtzA%2BRS8Xfm8Ufjuvz4niwrqglAXFUbkL6J%2FGuHPeeECZhLBBN3iNM1Swl94Fv5zE95YK%2B5O6dxDN1ySNOjdMxkA8yaprbuwRHFQv1nlGh%2FWjekj6EUFR2%2FO4HTsoKtSAkY0Mj1w1uf1w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6zFjKXtYw but with a lower close pressure, and thread adapter if required. Am i dreaming?
×
×
  • Create New...