Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it also has bigger brakes, and i think it's got digital climate control,and it has an adjustable front spoiler. there have been a few threads on this, but no-one has a definant answer.

hard to tell, coz a lot of the stuff that was standard on the type m you could get as an option on the non-type-m

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60028-m-spec/#findComment-1142308
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Nissan Skyline GT-R V-spec II R34

The GT-R V Spec II has the ATESSA E-TS PRO four-wheel drive system which integrates with the LSD, giving the computer control of side-to-side torque distribution as well as front to rear. This offers improved traction. Underneath the V Spec II, Nissan have fitted front and rear diffusers which work together to smooth airflow under the car, reducing lift and creating down-force. The rear diffuser is made of carbon-fibre and features a NACA duct to direct cooling air to the rear differential. The V Spec II also has a different 2-step tachometer which has finer graduations above 3,000rpm for more accurate readings.

Nissan Skyline GT-R V-spec II N1 R34

The GT-R V Spec II N1 is designed to be the basis of racing GT-Rs. It features different turbo chargers using metal rotors instead of ceramic, an engine oil cooler and larger diameter rear brakes. To save weight some items are removed including the rear wiper, rear fog lamps, the remote control entry system, air conditioning and the audio system (although the antenna and wiring harness remain). The centre console lid and parking brake lever are now trimmed in plastic rather than leather and the external mirrors are painted black. The N1 is only available in white with an unpainted lightweight carbon-fibre bonnet.

Nissan Skyline GT-R M-spec R34

Released in 2001, the M Spec is similar in specification to the V Spec II but with a few differences. These are mainly inside the cabin where the M Spec has a leather covered steering wheel and gear knob with gold stitching and heated leather seats. Other changes include an aluminium bonnet and revised suspension tuning. Like the V Spec II, the M Spec has the ATTESA E-TS PRO four wheel drive system, underbody aero package and a 2-step tachometer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60028-m-spec/#findComment-1158724
Share on other sites

There was also R33 GTS Type G and Type X.

The Type G and Type X R33 had an RB20E Motor.

The Type S has an RB25E Motor.

The differences from a standard R33 GTS25t to a R33 GTS25t Type M were the Front bar and Side Skirts. There was no MSpec, MSpec was in the R34 Skyline model. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60028-m-spec/#findComment-1158735
Share on other sites

I'm sure I read somewhere on here that all GTS25t's were type M. The type M just denoted it was a turbo car. If you do a search, you'll find a lot of debate on whether there was a type-M and what extra features you got. All I know is mine has digital climate control, the lower front bar and viscous LSD.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60028-m-spec/#findComment-1159351
Share on other sites

Type M is a "Sports package" its basically just a car with a whole bunch of options as standard. Like "Sportivo" for Corolla.

GTSes got Type S

GTSt's got Type M

GTE's and sedans got Type G, J and X

The options given as standard varied from financial year to year, as seen in the catalogues. The few options that were offered thruout the run were Sports bodykits, sports spoilers, upgraded interior trim, Viscous LSD (or Active LSD), HICAS, and sports suspension.

Keep in mind there are regular factory cars which can have these options added to them which make them similar spec. Also you can add MORE options to the Type M package, like cup holders, sunroof, EL lightup panels, gold badges, glovebox refrigerators etc.

M-Spec however is totally different, there's an LM Spec as well in R33's, the commemoratory LeMans blue editions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60028-m-spec/#findComment-1162271
Share on other sites

Funky, you seem to know alot about the extras you could get. Would you happen to know what the black box thing on the back shelf labeled "Puretron" is? Guesses so far are a de-ionizer or an air purefier of some kind.... thats my "warp engine" mentioned above... no one else i've spoken to has one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60028-m-spec/#findComment-1163261
Share on other sites

When I first got my car, it had a rotating inlay on the indicator stalk, similar to the intermittent wiper 'rotating bit' on the wiper stalk. The one I'm refering to was like the indicator stalk was wearing a ring with 2 positions. I assume it was a Fog-light switch but I'm not too sure because it came with a non-standard bar and I have since replaced the whole stalk assembly (it just started to click and short out one day) to another set that was identical but without the fog-light thingy.

When I looked at another mates r33 gts-t he had the standard bar with the foggies, but when I looked closer I noticed that there was only a reflector behind the glass, and no bulbs. He didnt have the fog-light ring thing on his stalk :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60028-m-spec/#findComment-1171374
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hmm basically, all GTSt's and GTS25t's are Type-M, all GTS, GTS25 etc are Type-S.

Type-M denotes that the car is a turbo, Type-S that it is a non-turbo. Other extras may come with the Type-M (not sure) but I know for a fact that non-turbos are Type-S and turbos are Type-M.

Possibly the 'M' stands for 'Massive insurance' and the 'S' stands for 'Secondrate', not sure :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60028-m-spec/#findComment-1247368
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...