Jump to content
SAU Community

Timing Belt Change - Some Help Required

Scooby_Steve

By Scooby_Steve,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Scooby_Steve Community Regular

Scooby_Steve

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I was just wondering if the process to change the Timing Belt in a R33 Skyline Series II is complex?

Where can I buy this timing belt from? I've got a mate who probably can do it but I dont want to ask him if it's going to be a lengthy task.

Also, what price should I be looking at if I was to get this done via a workshop/mechanic? Any suggestions on where to get it done (ultratune?)

Lastly any suggestions on what should be replaced so that it will save me Labour cost in the future (eg. water pump?)

Any help would be great. Thanks.

Regards

Steve

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

Also get the idler and adjuster bearing sets. There is a thread on these in the forum but if they go, then the engine goes. Mine had done 120000km and were pretty ordinary. About $120 for the NSK set. Use the search feature. Also might be worth changing the guide plates @ about $10 for the pair and the woodruff keys if they look a little worn for a couple of bucks, both from nissan. Ring NSK direct for a local supplier but don't use nissan for the bearings as they will ask for your first born and 2 fingers :D

PTR33 Proficient

PTR33

Posted
Posted

also get the waterpump checked while they are in there. It will save you a couple of hours labour in case if it craps itself only a few thousand kms later and all the same stuff has to be pulled out to get at it again.

Ben101 Contributor

Ben101

Posted
Posted

Have done the job in about 5 hrs with a mate (including farting about) the timing belt got from nissan the idler and tensioner bearing after market (got sell a kidney if you want nissan items) the cam and crank seals are all the same can get them from ACL changed water pump while was there saves headache later on careful pulling of the balancer it will be tight but does come off make sure to mark the sensor on the cam and when you take the front part of the vvt unit off on the inlet some oil will come out and its spring loaded dont loose the bolts

BBQ Community Regular

BBQ

Posted
Posted
Hi,

I was just wondering if the process to change the Timing Belt in a R33 Skyline Series II is complex?  

Where can I buy this timing belt from? I've got a mate who probably can do it but I dont want to ask him if it's going to be a lengthy task.

Also, what price should I be looking at if I was to get this done via a workshop/mechanic? Any suggestions on where to get it done (ultratune?)

Lastly any suggestions on what should be replaced so that it will save me Labour cost in the future (eg. water pump?)

Any help would be great. Thanks.

Regards

Steve

When doing a timing belt replacement, its good practice to replace the water pump, and the idler bearing & tensioner bearing, and fan belts, eg power steering, alternator, so on. As it’s much easier to do it now once it’s apart, especially water pump. Because you could get the timing belt changed and your water pump could die in one month’s time.

And then it’s back into the garage pulling everything off again.

Idler and tensioner bearings you can get at any bearing place (Alard Bearings), Cost any where from $60 on wards. And as for the timing belt just go genuine, cost should be around $100 for a timing belt.

The biggest cost would be labor, as it’s a time consuming process. And that really depends on what your mechanic charges.

Hope that helps.

Ben101 Contributor

Ben101

Posted
Posted

Steve the part numbers are PBT15 $40.00 and 56TB2801B01 $64.00 and the brand is called PART TECH if you take the numbers to a bearing place like CBC bearings etc.. they should be able to match them up the place i got them from is Mekong Spare Parts 9724 0691 if you any problems let me know

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

out of interest, has anyone seen a water pump fail on an rb? at how many klm?

I changed mine as well, but was just thinking, of all these threads on SAU I've never heard of a dead water pump ?

Jolinator Proficient

Jolinator

Posted
Posted

didnt you guys see the post were the dudes waterpumped housing sheared in half and threw the fan blade into the radiator, he reckond the belt was done up too tight or there was a stress fracture, it was nasty

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • FRGTN1
      R34 Manual conversion Speedometer

      By FRGTN1 · Posted

      Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...