Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok this thread is still going... well i dont own my series II skyline anymore

Im proud to say that i own a 2002 s15 GT spec...

I understand how the bov/flutter works

my question is now what do you use to block the bov? any thing specific?

i know the cons about blocking the bov but frankly at this stage i really dont care i just want that sound esp when its on a s15 its nice...!!!

  • Replies 300
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Take out the two bolts that hold the BOV down and slide the gasket out. Get a Coke can, cut the tops so u can fold it out. Trace the gasket shape onto the coke can and cut around the outside of your tracings(leave the inside as it is, it's this that will bloke off the air). Then just slide the gasket back in with your coke can gasket on top. (you can use some rubber gasket sealant if u like, but mine doesn't have it and doesn't seem to leak)

FTR i did mine to stop my car surging in between gear changes, and it worked.. Don't mind the sound now either, sounds tuned or something, hehe

Yeah i thought about the coke can but wasnt sure if it would last? cause it a really soft metal and could melt over a time of period with the heat...

But yeah it works aye? just cut out, unscrew the current bov then put back on? what about the pumpack hose...? leave every thing as it is?

Yeah i thought about the coke can but wasnt sure if it would last? cause it a really soft metal and could melt over a time of period with the heat...

But yeah it works aye? just cut out, unscrew the current bov then put back on? what about the pumpack hose...? leave every thing as it is?

Coke cans are alluminium. Alluminium is a piss poor conductor. And believe me, it's not THAT weak. Just very light. You WON'T have to worry about it melting, i can assure you of that. 40*C or 30*C intake temps or what ever won't even be enough to heat it propperly, let alone get it to the heat required to melt it.

Anyway, you are talking about the inlet side of things, so it's not all THAT hot, if you want to call it hot at all. Exhaust side is the hot side, no BOV there :(

Here's a thought. Why not just remove the BOV alltogether and sell it? Or do you want to just have it there for wank factor (by wank factor i mean, it's there, just not doing anything...)?

Coke cans are alluminium. Alluminium is a piss poor conductor. And believe me, it's not THAT weak. Just very light. You WON'T have to worry about it melting, i can assure you of that. 40*C or 30*C intake temps or what ever won't even be enough to heat it propperly, let alone get it to the heat required to melt it.

Anyway, you are talking about the inlet side of things, so it's not all THAT hot, if you want to call it hot at all. Exhaust side is the hot side, no BOV there :D

Here's a thought. Why not just remove the BOV alltogether and sell it? Or do you want to just have it there for wank factor (by wank factor i mean, it's there, just not doing anything...)?

Alluminium is a very good conductor of heat.

Anyway your right the coke can will work... bit dodgy though :(

I can't believe this thread is still going, and that you still want your car to flutter.

just my 2c since everyone decided to revive this thread

when I had teh fully sik bro fluttah, ,it ran SO SHIT that I couldn't believe how crap it was and why people do it. It's like driving a lazy ass turbo that can't decide to boost or not boost. So in short, I got rid of my siknesss and now run normal. Nothing beats the good old induction sound..............NOTHING!!!!!

Ok this thread is still going... well i dont own my series II skyline anymore

Im proud to say that i own a 2002 s15 GT spec...

I understand how the bov/flutter works

my question is now what do you use to block the bov? any thing specific?

i know the cons about blocking the bov but frankly at this stage i really dont care i just want that sound esp when its on a s15 its nice...!!!

My mate has an s15 and it flutters anyway without blocking off the bov. It was especially audible once he put a pod filter on and upped the boost a bit. The only thing he blocked was the little hole in the bov to stop the air leak, but it fluttered even before this.

just my 2c since everyone decided to revive this thread

when I had teh fully sik bro fluttah, ,it ran SO SHIT that I couldn't believe how crap it was and why people do it. It's like driving a lazy ass turbo that can't decide to boost or not boost. So in short, I got rid of my siknesss and now run normal. Nothing beats the good old induction sound..............NOTHING!!!!!

You are then the minority. Blocking the bov off does indeed improve the turbo's spool.

But yes mine did run a little crappy but the turbo's response was up.

But then you go on to say nothing beats the good old induction sound? The bov flutter etc sound is not an induction/suck sound? So.. I tend to take what you say with a pinch of salt. :(

Well the reason the fluttering is loud on mine is because im running a pod (until i get around to putting the stock airbox on, or manage to find a pod box) With the stock box, it's only audible from outside the car. the airbox may only be a little bit louder than the stock box, so if u want loud flutters, um, take the cover off or something

You are then the minority. Blocking the bov off does indeed improve the turbo's spool.

But yes mine did run a little crappy but the turbo's response was up.

But then you go on to say nothing beats the good old induction sound? The bov flutter etc sound is not an induction/suck sound? So.. I tend to take what you say with a pinch of salt. :(

induction sound as sucking air sound...not blowing back out sound

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
×
×
  • Create New...