Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 102
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest Mashrock
how d u manage to be 21 and have 3 cars that are that good?

thats a heaps nice job on the covers aswell kel

i'd say the nice view he has, would have something to do with it.

but nice colour on the covers. i have to do mine soon too i think 200 bucks i can get it done for. just gotta work out the colour.

  • 2 weeks later...

i recently saw a different thread where a guy in scotland posted his engine bay pic... looked beautiful

Anyways, i been looking for that thread but i cant find it anywhere.... if anyone remembers thread name or user name, help me out.

Just that i wanna use the same color paint on my cam covers but cant find the thread

Looks like your car is running a fair bit of base timing?!?!?! Or is that about right on the RB25?

...and good work on finally removing that damn head light cover:thumbsup:

Thinks its just fully locked out for the aftermarket managment system.

Could be wrong though :cheers:

Looks like your car is running a fair bit of base timing?!?!?! Or is that about right on the RB25?

...and good work on finally removing that damn head light cover:thumbsup:

Exhaust is at around -4 deg with hks cam gear and base timing is modified with pfc and is still running very consertavite for the track days.

cameron

Yes its good stuff but needs alot of polishing to get shiny.

I havent yet pub some armorall on the rubber hoses which i will do today hopefully if i have some time

I've probably posted this picture before? Here's mine -

Included one of the engine in the last stage of the build.

And yeah I know the GT-R badge is lame, looking to get a GT-S style replacement ASAP. Anyone know where I can get a good quality one?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...