Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well, first off, you know all about removing and putting the cover back on? Otherwise, really any high temp engine paint will do.

well.. from what i saw yesterday, it comes off pretty easy.. nothings going to fly out/break/etc when i take them off?

2 pac paint and lots of prep work but be carefull as 2 pac is carcinogenic.

its pretty much prepped, i spent all yesterday cleaning all the crap off them, will give it a good final clean once i take them off...

im guessing they need to be primed too?

i used some high temp acrilic you get from supercheap. it looked good, but i found out if you put it in the oven for a little while it lasts longer.

I also gave it a couple of clear coats too, but unfortunetly didnt bake it.

heres a pic of the laser, i might get the gtr proffessionally done.

steve

and its expensive too

This is the job I did on a Proton Rocker Cover... harlequin purple to green..

Spray cans... $80 for the paint..

some prepsol... bit of sandpaper...

geez it was tempting to polish the crap out of it after it was cleaned and prepped.

This is the job I did on a Proton Rocker Cover... harlequin purple to green..  

Spray cans... $80 for the paint..  

some prepsol... bit of sandpaper...  

 

geez it was tempting to polish the crap out of it after it was cleaned and prepped.

that looks pretty damn nice..

id love a silver/blue harlequin paint :D

Mines going yellow this week (along with block, plenum, timing belt cover and coil pack cover) - will post up pics when finished.

Using high temp engine paint from SuperCheap (get the lot for less baby!!!!).

Appreciate any additional tips for stripping original paint :D

Mines going yellow this week (along with block, plenum, timing belt cover and coil pack cover) - will post up pics when finished.

Using high temp engine paint from SuperCheap (get the lot for less baby!!!!).

Appreciate any additional tips for stripping original paint  :)

thats what i was going to do too kel, cept blue :D

Mines going yellow this week (along with block, plenum, timing belt cover and coil pack cover) - will post up pics when finished.

Using high temp engine paint from SuperCheap (get the lot for less baby!!!!).

Appreciate any additional tips for stripping original paint  :)

give it a few coats of high temp clear spray.

steve

did a little bit of a test run tonight.. only did one coat, but it looks alright :P

(the 'real' colour is actually between the 2 blues that it appears in the photos, and looks much nicer in real life)

  • 6 months later...

Don’t mean to bump this thread, but anyone who is using 2 Pac paint to paint rocker covers, be advised as stated above it is carcinogenic. You need a Full Face respirator, as the carcinogenic are absorbed even through the eyes. I use to work full time for a safety crowd and even there we always recommended for liability, an air line hooker system. But hey a complete over kill for a one rocket cover. But keep it to an open well vented area.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...