Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

there are a few R31's that are super charged, can pull about 130 kws with about 10 psi (correct me if im wrong)

Thats funny. :D

Drop a RB25 head on a RB30 with a set of rb25 pistons to bring the comp up to 10.5:1 and you see that kind of power. :)

Guest Mashrock

rb26dettr

twin turbo supercharged..

now thats nice.

there are massive advantages of a setup up like this.

you can use a spuercharger for all the downlow boost. and have either one or two massive snails to finish off the job, if i had the money and time i would try and do something similar..

here's a photo..

i havnt really found any info on this motor ever tho.. if anyone could help??

I know why they call supercharges parasites.

 

Checking out one of the whipple flow maps I noticed to flow 500-600cfm it sucks around 40hp.

Yes, but, with a turbo you are also losing a lot of power due to the extremely high exhaust backpressure (usually a little higher than the boost pressure).

Where's Warpspeed when you need him.

I went throught the supercharging thing on in line 6 cylinder engines back when the dinosaurs roamed the earth. Admitedly that was on Holden Red motors. I really carnt see why it carnt be done now even better with the multi valve twin cam engines of today.

Considering my motor was making 497hp and 523lbs/ft of torque on pump gas and even more on alcohol !

I know nissan made a car (cant remember which one - one of those small cc jap race cars) that had both a supercharger and a turbo on it. The supercharger would give it the botton end power then as the revs rose and the turbo came onto boost it would change over to the turbo.

A supercharger has all of the advantages that a Tubro has as disadvantages(ie good at the bottom, running out of puff at the top, no lag, turbo has no reall loss of power at the bottom end, but the supercharger takes power from the bottom end of the rev range)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...