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MV Automatics here in Adelaide (1 Stirling Rd Blackwood 5051) put the shift kit in my car for $300, and they told me they have sold the kit to other auto trans companies across the country. (ring them (08) 8370 0430 to get a price and then see how much your local shop will charge to fit it.)

I also had them fit a trans cooler at the same time (heat is not your friend).

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well another auto R32 driver here, but i think people are underestimating the drivetrain losses with the auto box

i made 132rwkw with 3" turbo-back exhaust, FMIC, filter, rb26 cams, and 12psi (running very rich)

my tuner suggested i would have approx 155rwkw if it were manual, based on what he has seen in his experiences, which is about what zoom magazine found when they converted the rb20 r31 to manual and picked up 20rwkw

saying that though, the off-the-line work is very easy to get consistently right and stalling the auto can counter for the lag by never being off boost in a drag race :(

i have noticed though that when you change the gearstick (eg from 1 to 2) there is a delay of about 0.5-1 sec before the gear actually changes and its a bit of a pain in that regard...

i would also recommend a trannie cooler which i have installed on my car

but i have never 'raced' a manual skyline so i have no way to compare its performance...

cheers,

Waz.

MV Automatics here in Adelaide (1 Stirling Rd Blackwood 5051)  put the shift kit in my car for $300, and they told me they have sold the kit to other auto trans companies across the country. (ring them (08) 8370 0430 to get a price and then see how much your local shop will charge to fit it.)

I also had them fit a trans cooler at the same time (heat is not your friend).

Is that $300 for valvebody including labour?

Is that $300 for valvebody including labour?

Yes that was drive in, drive away. Not bad when I estimated a normal auto trans service (which was due) would cost $100 anyway.

Re power difference between manuals and autos - have you taken into account the different dif ratios?

i find that auto is most of the time faster, i drive an man, and when racing faster skyline than myself, i will almost beat them cuz they short-shift (i dont shift untill i hit 7000,7100 if it doesnt hit limiter im not tring :P)

soo i guess it really depends on the driver and how good/fast he can shift but i would say 70% of the time the auto will come out in front

i find that auto is most of the time faster, i drive an man, and when racing faster skyline than myself, i will almost beat them cuz they short-shift (i dont shift untill i hit 7000,7100 if it doesnt hit limiter im not tring :P)

soo i guess it really depends on the driver and how good/fast he can shift but i would say 70% of the time the auto will come out in front

If you shift when you hit the limmiter you are probably shifting way too late anyway.

Next time you get it on the dyno get a printout of the torque, KW plotted against RPM to work out where you get most torque and a what RPM to change.

Yes that was drive in, drive away. Not bad when I estimated a normal auto trans service (which was due) would cost $100 anyway.

Re power difference between manuals and autos - have you taken into account the different dif ratios?

What is their respective diff ratios? I think my manual is 4.11:1

auto's are the bomb.. call me lazy i dont care... they arent too bad on the track ( except 4 over heating) u can downshift will a pull of the stickto 2nd or 1st or a press of the button for third.

i must say afta burning one gearbox out at a trackday i am installing a cooler on mine when i get it back.

manuals may b more fun, but i have had friends who have manual skylines drive mine and they were really surprised by the way it drove and the reaction of the turbo.

my only prob is getting rid of the jap spec speedlimiter (180km/h) ( if anyone knows how let me know)

I ran 13.8 @ 104mph launching at 2200rpm

complete stock auto box and ecu

180.3rwkw back in august

since then ive done; fuel pump, cai, better dump pipe, hiflow cat, custom straighter cat back exhaust, fully synthetic transmission fluid

also put in safc2, so would be interesting to see what the above with tuning will gain over 180kw

or even more so with hiflowed turbo, bigger injectors, shift kit and bigger trans cooler :P

my only prob is getting rid of the jap spec speedlimiter (180km/h) ( if anyone knows how let me know)

Easy, what you need is a "frequency clamp" in series with the speedo feed to the ECU. As the kph increases the pulsing frequency (from the sensor in the gearbox) goes up, when it gets above a certain frequency the ecu works that out as 180 kph and cuts power. You use the "clamp" to stop the frequency getting to that point, say 175 kph. Since all of the gear changing and other stuff is well and truly over by then, the auto box works fine.

Fueltronics sell them, so do heaps of others. If you are OK with electronic kits Jaycar have this one;

:(

wouldn just wiring a potentiometer in line with the pin on the ECU that recieves a speed input do the trick?

wouldnt wiring a potentiometer in the line permanently, also give you faulty readings of speed all the time

speed goes up speed goes down speed goes up speed goes down

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