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Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

Sydneykid

By Sydneykid,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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chrissso Proficient

chrissso

Posted
Posted

For the hypothetical argument:-

For the ignition timing, I think that you would need a dpa to intercept each spark plug. Thats if that is how they work.

That's 6 bulky shithouselooking cream boxes that you would have trouble hiding in the non existent room behind the dash. The idea is good, but I think if you had to buy 6, the cost would be similar to a unichip.

Or maybe I'm looking at it the wrong way, are you saying that you intecept the signal from the CAS? That may work...

Or something else that the ECU uses to calculate the ignition timing.

Unfortunatley, I don't know enough about CAS signals or format. Maybe someone else could enlighten.

The real answer is stop fuggin around and get a PFC.

I think that basicly, if you want to do more than bend the AFM voltage, then a PFC is the way to go as it can give you control over everything. Easy to fit, better tuning results and less ugly plastic boxes to hide.

I do know that they can be used to do a speedo correction.

You might be able to use them to fool the speed limiter.

There is probably a 101 uses for them, all limited by you imagination.

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AMS Grand Master

AMS

Posted
Posted

Ok I'm going to have to jump in the middle of your convo here...

Well I thought the IEBC was working for me, but turns out, it doesnt work at all! I cannot make it go higher or lower than 7-8 psi no matter what setting I put in. Anyone know what's going on?

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted
The real answer is stop fuggin around and get a PFC.

I think that basicly, if you want to do more than bend the AFM voltage, then a PFC is the way to go as it can give you control over everything. Easy to fit, better tuning results and less ugly plastic boxes to hide.

Unfortunately, it ain't that easy - there isn't a PowerFC available that is a direct plug-in to the Stagea wiring loom (this is that Stagea section of the forums, after all).

Getting one to work involves, amongst other things, converting your Stagea to manual (none of the series 1 RB25-engined Stageas were manual, and there are no PFC's for auto Skylines), hacking up the Stagea wiring loom to suit the PowerFC (or vice-versa), and sorting out an alternative method to keep the ATESSA control - most of the Stageas that come into the country are AWD, and there were no RB25DET-engined Skylines that also had the ATESSA system.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
  • Author
Posted
For the hypothetical argument:-

For the ignition timing, I think that you would need a dpa to intercept each spark plug. Thats if that is how they work.

That's 6 bulky shithouselooking cream boxes that you would have trouble hiding in the non existent room behind the dash. The idea is good, but I think if you had to buy 6, the cost would be similar to a unichip.

Or maybe I'm looking at it the wrong way, are you saying that you intecept the signal from the CAS? That may work...

Or something else that the ECU uses to calculate the ignition timing.

Unfortunatley, I don't know enough about CAS signals or format. Maybe someone else could enlighten.

The real answer is stop fuggin around and get a PFC.

I think that basicly, if you want to do more than bend the AFM voltage, then a PFC is the way to go as it can give you control over everything. Easy to fit, better tuning results and less ugly plastic boxes to hide.

I do know that they can be used to do a speedo correction.

You might be able to use them to fool the speed limiter.

There is probably a 101 uses for them, all limited by you imagination.

The Apexi SITC changes the CAS signal at 5 rpm points, with interpolation between them. So you achieve the timing that you want. This thread covers fitting an SITC to a Stagea;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=80642

:) cheers :rofl:

chrissso Proficient

chrissso

Posted
Posted
Unfortunately, it ain't that easy - there isn't a PowerFC available that is a direct plug-in to the Stagea wiring loom (this is that Stagea section of the forums, after all).

Getting one to work involves, amongst other things, converting your Stagea to manual (none of the series 1 RB25-engined Stageas were manual, and there are no PFC's for auto Skylines), hacking up the Stagea wiring loom to suit the PowerFC (or vice-versa), and sorting out an alternative method to keep the ATESSA control - most of the Stageas that come into the country are AWD, and there were no RB25DET-engined Skylines that also had the ATESSA system.

I'd agree with that. But like SK has pointed out - there are better options for timing.

I guess I overlooked the whole stagea thing as I have a manual skyline...

The fact that SK couldn't put in a PFC is the major reason this thread was started hey!

AlexCim Grand Master

AlexCim

Posted
Posted

ive fried two IEBC's by switching too slowly from high to low, kinda staying in between.

It caused heat to build up in one of the resitors and it to burn out. I replaced it but never worked again. The result was the EBC being stuck on load point 64. Basically making it as good as a bleed valve :)

xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted
The Apexi SITC changes the CAS signal at 5 rpm points, with interpolation between them. So you achieve the timing that you want. This thread covers fitting an SITC to a Stagea;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=80642

:) cheers :rolleyes:

So you could use a DFA to change the signal from the CAS? and it would probably work better than the SITC as it has more resolution?

Just throwing around a few ideas... At the moment Ive got the DFA and IEBC and a Universal Voltage Switch kit running an intercooler water spray... could add another beige box. ;-)

chrissso Proficient

chrissso

Posted
Posted

Hey, I just found out something.

I have a DFA and lately on cold nights, I have been loosing power between 5000rpm and 7000rpm,and going through more fuel.

Plugged in the controller and found that the input was 1 and the output 0. SO I pulled it apart and found the red led wasn't on. The "switch in" was not working. I had to adjust VR4 to get it to switch on when the engine turned over. And now the red light comes on.

So I'm not sure how this happened. Maybe vibrations caused VR4 to unscrew changing the resistance, or maybe it's because I changed batteries and the alernator doesn't charge the battery as vigourously anymore (the old one was fooked). Anyway, just thought I'd share.

  • 2 weeks later...
ellie Proficient

ellie

Posted
Posted

Help!!!! I have a standard R33 boost control solonoid and an Apexi 3 port boost control solonoid.

1. Which one will be better to use?

2. Will the Apexi item flow better with more control due to its larger ports?

3. How do you set The 3 port up? Obviously you put the two barbs to COM (in) and NC (out) but what do you do with the NO port?

4. Is there anything else required to change the setup of the solonoid to NC operation fom NO?

Cheers in advance :)

Oosh Veteran

Oosh

Posted
Posted

NO = Normally Open

NC = Normally Closed

These are the two states of the outputs when the solenoid is NOT energized.

COM = Common Input

For this application it's best to use a NC, as for the vast majority of the time (when you're OFF boost) you want the valve shut, then when you're holding back the boost it opens up. This is so you're pulsing the solenoid as little as possible, and avoiding holding it open for a long time, which can shorten its life-span.

In the case of bleed systems, you'd want a normally open valve, coz it'll spend most of it's time open.

The APEXI one in question obviously has both, useful, but overkill for this.

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