Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[adamR33]

i belive its a fualty hand controller as i bruoght a dfa with hand cont and hand cont was flicking on and off so guest it was my fualty somewhere but no coz i just a iebc today and hooked everything spot on and hand cont is still flicking on and off so just tell jay car that the hand cont is faulty and they will replace it. cheers

[Sydneykid]

Jaycar EBC

Jaycar DFA

Apexi SITC

HKS SLD

Nismo cat back (very quiet)

Catco high flow cat

R34GTT SMIC

Pipercross panel filter

Feels like around 160 4wkw at the moment

Plus the following, after this weekend, since I have to remove it all to replace the cracked exhaust manifold

Performance Metalcraft split dump and engine pipe combo, Thermo wrapped of course

GCG Ball Bearing High Flow turbo, I have put the smaller compressor housing on it, as I want to make sure it looses nothing for towing.

Then a road tune by me, planning on running up to the max that the standard injectors, at standard pressure, can handle.

If I think it needs more power, then I will stick a bolt on Nismo FPR on it and turn up the fuel pressure.

That should test out the rumour that Stagea fuel pumps flow more that R33GTST fuel pumps.

The target always has been 200 4wkw (double what it had standard), so I will throw it on the dyno to confirm that the target has been achieved.

cheers

I spent most of the weekend replacing the cracked manifold (pictures to follow), fitting the turbo and the split dump. I also did a bit of general maintenance at the same time, replaced some broken bolts, tidied up the intercooler joiners and clamps plus cleaned and re-oiled the Pipercross airfilter.

I didn’t finish till late last night, so no time for tuning. Just a quick drive to make sure it moved. Extreme R&R at 1.5 bar (oooooops) , so I reset the IEBC to 100% duty cycle which gave around 1 bar. Still a little R&R, but it’s plenty quick, before the standard ECU kills the fun.

The GCG Ball Bearing high flow (ex R32GTST) I put on had a 10 psi (R32GTST) wastegate actuator, compared to the 4/5 psi one that the Stagea comes with standard. First I flicked the IEBC over to the low boost setting of 8 psi (high was 10 psi to perserve the ceramic turbine), but that wasn't anywhere near enough to drop the boost from 1.5 bar down to a more R&R friendly 12 psi or so. I ran out of time (and energy) to decrease the size of the vent, maybe tonight. Although I doubt it, I have some suspension set up to do on the race team car (not a Skyline) for the Bathurst 12 Hour next weekend.

I still have the IEBC set to keep the wastegate closed for as long as possible, so it develops 0.5 bar at 2,500 rpm at 1 bar at 3,000 rpm. I will be able to improve that with the SITC as it can now take some more ignition advance, up to almost 3,000 rpm. Plus a bit of A/F ratio tuning will help as well. If I can get 0.5 bar at 2,000 rpm and 1 bar at say 2,600 rpm I will be happy.

The Performance Metalcraft split dump (also ex R32GTST) has added a nice rumble to the exhaust, much more than I remember it doing to the RB20DET when I fitted it to it. I ordered the split dump with an extra lambda sensor fitting, so it much easier to tune as the standard lambda sensor can stay in situ.

So the hard (dirty) work is almost done, now it’s time for some tuning (clean) work. I seem much more at home with the laptop these days than the spanners. This pretty much completes the list of mods I had in mind for the Stagea, maybe a adjustable fuel pressure regulator will be required to make the power target. Just some tuning to go. I will post up the SITC and DFA settings, plus the vent size change required and the IEBC mapping once I am happy with the results.

cheers

[Sydneykid]

The R&R was getting a bit annoying, stopping the WOT fun far to often. So I dropped the boost down until I couldn't feel any more R&R, that was ~13 psi. Which will have to do until after this weekend and the Bathurst 12 Hour race is over and I can spend some time tuning the DFA and SITC. Which should let me turn up the boost a bit more.

I will definitely have to finsih installing the HKS SLD, because it will most certainly exceed 180 kph next time on the track.

cheers

[adamR33]

This is the 10 minute no cost boost to 0.5 bar rerouting of the vacuum hoses. Disconnect the two vaccum hoses from the solenoid. Then connect the boost feed (from the cross over pipe on the left of the picture) to a the standard T piece. Connect one side of the T piece directly to the wastegate actuator (on the right of the picture). The remaing connection on the T piece goes back into the inlet via the BOV return pipe (on the standard fitting). Make sure to put the the standard brass restrictor in that vacuum hose to bypass the desired amount back into the turbo inlet. The standard bypass hole of 1.25 mm bypasses enough air flow for 0.5 bar.

hey sidney kid with this 5 min job where do i put the resrictor ?

1- between the intercooler pipe and the T piece

2- between the T piece and the waste gate

or

3- between the Tpiece and the turbo air intake?

coz i have is how u show in picture and the resritor in between the intercooler pipe and the t piece and its a standard size 1.25 and its doing close to 0.7 and its fine when doing 0.5 but once i get to 0.7 or over it will start poping like a boost cut ... how do i solve this.

[Sydneykid]

hey sidney kid with this 5 min job where do i put the resrictor ?

1- between the intercooler pipe and the T piece

2- between the T piece and the waste gate

or

3- between the Tpiece and the turbo air intake?

coz i have is how u show in picture and the resritor in between the intercooler pipe and the t piece and its a standard size 1.25 and its doing close to 0.7 and its fine when doing 0.5 but once i get to 0.7 or over it will start poping like a boost cut ... how do i solve this.

#3

cheers

[Work32gtr]

I have a brand new never used FULLY BUILT Hand controller and DFA (Digitial Fuel Adjuster) for sale. Tested and working on the bench. I bought and built the kit with every plan to put in my car, but then realised after doing all the hard work my GTR has to AFMs and therefore would require two DFA's. So I have upgraded to a power fc.

Will also through in the brand new 1.8m DB25 cable required for connecting the hand controller to the DFA

Complete kit for sale - $200 posted to anywhere in AUS

To buy the kits from Jaycar would cost you $90 DFA

$70 HC

$20 Cable Total $180

So you are paying $20 for my 6 hours labour to build the kits!!!! PLUS free Postage

There are picture all over this topic of what they look like, but if you really want photos PM me or something

[Robo's]

I though it might be handy if I added the ECU pins I intend to use;

Fuel Adjuster;

Red = 12 volts + * Pin 31

Black = 12 volts - * Pin 32

Green = input from AFM * the cut wire that used to go to Pin 54

Black = output to ECU (where the AFM used to be connected)* Pin 54

Boost Controller;

Red = 12 volts + * Pin 31

Black = 12 volts - * Pin 32

Green = input from injector * Pin 101 (cylinder #1)

Black = output to the standard solenoid * the cut wire that used to go to Pin 104

I have now fully tested them and the connections are as posted above.

Are these the same pins for a R33 GTST?

[Robo's]

Looks like they are different pins. The boost pin is 25, injector is 101, can you connect it to any injector?

Also which ones are for ignition and ground?

[Robo's]

Anyone???? I connected it up and it ran like a dog so i pulled them out again, obviously something is wrong

[PJ]

Did you cut the injector #1 wire, or just solder onto it? If you cut it, then theres your answer.

If not

- check boost/injector wires aren't reversed.

- remove one wire at a time

- at idle it should be doing nothing - what does the display show?

[PJ]

Just putting it out there, is there any chance we could create a sticky list of jaycar friendly tuners.

I know its relatively straight forward to tune, but would feel much better if I didn't have to explain

what the unit was, how it worked etc.

[SevenAngryPenguins]

hey guys some help/advice wanted, i have just installed the jaycar EBC and everything seems to be working ok however my boost is way too high. I have solenoid set to 100% just to keep it down to 13 psi (My bleed hole is only 1mm). I'm thinking my solenoid is faulty. I blew though it while it was set to 100% open and it was a noticeably restrictive is this normal or is it stuffed??? (it pulses ok). Anyone know what the coil impedance should be??? mine reads 35 ohms any help or input will be greatly appreciated.

cheers chris

[SevenAngryPenguins]

anyone....

[Robo's]

Rigged it up as per instructions, intercooler pipe going to top of solenoid, then hose from bottom of solenoid goes to a t/piece, one to atmo with a 1.5mm restrictor and the other to the actuator.

Problem is, with IEBC set to 100% or 0% it makes no changes to boost what so ever. Occasionally on the handcontroller it reads a funny reading like a loose conection on the display screen. Load readings read fine when driving upto 64. High or low settings also have no change.

I just tested with ignition on and at 0% i cannot blow thru it. I increase percentage and you can hear the solenoid open and i can blow thru it.

Interesting as it appears to work , maybe something happens when i start the car? Or maybe its the funny connection i see?

Edited July 29, 2007 by Robo's

[mark_sudakov]

are these still the best options for a boost controller and piggyback on a bugdet?

[Robo's]

Yes they seem to be quite useful. If you have the time to set it up, they are very good. Take a couple of hours to set it up and plenty of test runs, but if you master it, it will work great.

[mark_sudakov]

Thanks

Is there any tuners now days that r familiar with these items?

[Robo's]

Thanks

Is there any tuners now days that r familiar with these items?

Moslty likely not but its not too hard to learn if you read this thread

[_Ryan_]

Hey

Was wondering if anyone has any photos of the completed kits?

I have never soldered before, and have almost finnish the EBC, done the hand controller, DFA is next...

I cant tell which out of the two largest chips is which on the EBC? Instructions are crap.

Photos would be handy as i also dont know where the big white resistor goes, and want to check everything in general.

I earthed the two silver brick thingo's as i think that is what the book wanted me to do?

-Ryan

Edited November 20, 2007 by Ryan1600

[Sydneykid]

Hey

Was wondering if anyone has any photos of the completed kits?

I have never soldered before, and have almost finnish the EBC, done the hand controller, DFA is next...

I cant tell which out of the two largest chips is which on the EBC? Instructions are crap.

Photos would be handy as i also dont know where the big white resistor goes, and want to check everything in general.

I earthed the two silver brick thingo's as i think that is what the book wanted me to do?

-Ryan

Hi Ryan, the big white resister doesn't go anywhere, it is for testing the voltages. How to test them is in the instructions. The 2 x IC's are marked with white paint, the instructions tell you where they go. It's in the fine print, but it is there.

Cheers

Gary