Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[Sydneykid]

im pretty sure when I tested the grounding signal from the ECU it was at 4500rpm that it completed the circuit. i.e. sending the signal to the Solenoid to open.  I also thought the signal stayed till revs dropped below 4500rpm.

Maybe I'm wrong.

Nope that sounds right, but it is load sensitive on the Stagea. I didn't try it by just free reving the engine, so 4,500 rpm might be right under those conditions, On the Stagea it is certainly different in each gear, it doesn't open at all in first or second. This keeps the boost on the low limit. And when you hit the "Snow" button the solenoid also stays closed, regardless of the gear or rpm. Which sounds logical, I guess you don't want more power in the snow.

[elbee111]

Hello guys,

Let me be the first to say that you can blow your turbo at around 17 pounds if you are not careful, and it is surprising how quickly the boost gets to this level and beyond when the wastegate is not told to do something about it. :Oops:

OK. Yeah Yeah, I blew the turbo. (Ended up listening to bits of ceramic stuff floating around). :Bang:

I haven't finished though, and will try again at a later date.

Anyone got a standard turbo going cheap ??

El Bee

[Panikin]

Have purchased the iebc, dfa & h/c kits will build when spare time is not like rockinghorse shit.

The restrictor on my 33 was 1.7mm (1.5&1.6mm drill passed through the hole &1.8mm no go) made 14psi,not for long. Soldered and redrilled 1.5mm & got 10psi spike and 8-9psi depending on load(flat ground or uphill).

Do I need to resolder and drill it 1.25mm for iebc?

[Panikin]

hi sydneykid and others

 

a while ago before i had my ebc and powerfc etc i tried what you did above, i originally had the ground wire hack done which gave me 7psi all the time, but instead i bypassed the solenoid completely (like you have above) and i was able to hit 1 bar with no problems. the engine sounded like a rocket and i could hear detonation (or a form of tapping) so i backed off, i tried it a few times and could repeat would hit the full +7 on the stocker guage. Unsure why yours is only going to 0.50 bar, or perhaps why mine would just goto 1 bar? Going to 0.50bar is the stocker wastegate actuator

correct? Does this make sense?

It may be the R33 skyline has a larger hole as i got 14psi on my boost gauge +7 on the stock one with that mod,. see last post.

[Sydneykid]

Have purchased the iebc, dfa & h/c kits will build when spare time is not like rockinghorse shit.

The restrictor on my 33 was 1.7mm (1.5&1.6mm drill passed through the hole &1.8mm no go) made 14psi,not for long. Soldered and redrilled 1.5mm & got 10psi spike and 8-9psi depending on load(flat ground or uphill).

Do I need to resolder and drill it 1.25mm for iebc?

You might, best to wait and see what duty cycles you have to use on the IEBC to control the boost to your desired levels. Then make the hole the apropriate size.

It may be the R33 skyline has a larger hole as i got 14psi on my boost gauge +7 on the stock one with that mod,.

That is logical as the Stagea has lower boost levels which is the main reason why they develop less power when standard.

[GTRgeoff]

The critical question for me though is what restrictor to use for a twin turbo setup (R34GTR), since I don't have the original GTR hose setup to add. Some gentle trial and error is needed methinks. Now if Funky will just get my order in......

elbee I may have a good 25t turbo available soon, depending on how fast the TT setup goes in. I want it done by 10 mar and when happy will be selling my turbo which has produced 220rwkw @ 14psi. I bought it from Rigoli in 2000 and it was supposedly modified, but I can't tell what.

[elbee111]

elbee I may have a good 25t turbo available soon

Please let me know of price etc when available.

Will probably get a direct replacement in the meantime and hi flo the old, but moving to the Rigoli job sounds mighty interesting.

El Bee

[GTRgeoff]

I'd like to know more about the spec before letting it go. The wife thought of putting it in the auto but it is selling soon anyway and is stock. Pearls before swine. Let you know.

I think with the volume of air going to the actuators, if I stick to a single bleed to post AFM I should be ok with the standard size and use the controller to bring up around 15psi. Basically just start standard, split to both actuators after the bleed and that should be fine. That should exceed the 220rwkw I was getting and a bit more top end. Be nice at the Island to top 260 on the straight.

[MANWHORE]

Hi Sydneykid

Just an idea about allowing ytou to switch the hand controller. Perhaps you could wire a switch to the dfa and the iebc allowing you to switch them off without turning off the igniotion. Then you can move the hand controller over.

Cheers

[Sydneykid]

Hi Sydneykid

Just an idea about allowing ytou to switch the hand controller. Perhaps you could wire a switch to the dfa and the iebc allowing you to switch them off without turning off the igniotion. Then you can move the hand controller over.

Cheers

The engine would stop if if I turned the power off to the DFA and it would go max boost (that the tubo can develop) with no power to the IEBC. I have asked JE and he reckons they used a DB25 switch to swap over when they were developing the prototypes. I have got one around here somewhere, so I will give it a go soon and post up the results.

[benl1981]

what kind of fuel efficiency benefit would one expect from this. I currently get around the 11-13L/100ks for an R33 manual. I can hear it pop a little on back off as if it is a little rich. A 2.5 should get about 10L/100 with mild driving right if you do this mod right and get it tuned on the dyno with EG analyser. Can you play with it a little yourself without putting it on dyno?

[Oosh]

I was originally a little skeptical about these kits, and it still remains to be seen through personal experience, but i decided to throw caution to the wind and build them on the weekend.

My experiences so far are very positive, just a couple of pointers re: construction that helped me and might do the same for others.

1. Do NOT use the solder provided, IMO it's too fat, I used 0.56mm which was thinner than necessary but is what i had lying around, i think 0.70mm would be the sweet spot. Just gives you better control and esp. good for IC sockets and DB connectors.

**IEBC**

2. Watch out for LK5 (Link 5), if you blindly follow the silk-screening (like i did) you will connect it the wrong way around (to -ve instead of +ve), read and re-read all the documentation.

**Hand-Controller**

3. Despite the instructions, which i misread, you CAN solder the pin-header to the top side on the LCD PCB. Just don't hold the iron there too long or you risk melting the screen. It was half advantagous i messed this up as i ended up with the black plastic bit between the 2 PCBS which provided a more stable support.

I'm not suggesting you do it deliberately, but don't worry if you repeat my performance, it'll still work fine (as long as you haven't cooked the screen that is).

4. You needn't fret too much (certainly not as much as the doco makes out) about the button alignment.

Just push them all in to PCB (lining up the straight edges with the PCB markings).

Then get a flat bit of plastic and press on the under side so all the pins are flush (none poking thru the PCB).

Flip it over and rest the PCB edges on the edges of the empty case bottom, with the buttons dangling in to the cavity, now you can solder all the buttons in one go without knocking them about.

Your final alignment with the lid's holes may not be 100% but it'll do, if you f'up bad just break out the solder braid, or sucker if you're lucky enough to have one, and try again.

5. Ignore the 40% clockwise contrast setting, just wind it all the way to the clock-wise, else you'll sh!t yourself when nothing appears. Thankfully others had mentioned that here previous so i was calm-ish when it happened to me!

So far all i've done is build it and hook up power and adjust the one load point i can see, watching the LED flash appropriately, I'll hook it up to an injector ECU pin soon and hopefully pick up a solenoid shortly.

[Sydneykid]

what kind of fuel efficiency benefit would one expect from this.  I currently get around the 11-13L/100ks for an R33 manual.  I can hear it pop a little on back off as if it is a little rich.  A 2.5 should get about 10L/100 with mild driving right if you do this mod right and get it tuned on the dyno with EG analyser.  Can you play with it a little yourself without putting it on dyno?

Maximum possible fuel economy is usually achieved in closed loop (cruising) so I doubt that the max would improve much if at all. I have leaned ours off from 13 to 1 to 14.5 to 1 in low load (not closed loop) so there is a bit to be gained there. The main gain is in WOT running, I have leaned that out from 9's to a bit over 11's. So there is 20% to be had there. Plus the extra power means I don't have to squeeze the throttle as hard to get up to speed. So there is a bit there as well.

By the time you offset that with the fun factor from 30% more power, you might end up with 10%. My best so far is 15% improvement, but the Stagea is very heavy, has 4wd losses and zero mechanical mods. I ma sure the exhaust upgrade will help a lot (both power and economy).

[Oosh]

Hooked the IEBC up to the Inj #1 signal and the load points displayed on the Hand-Controller matched perfectly with the Duty Cycle % displayed on my Impakt DigiDash (1 load point = ~1.5%).

I should be picking up a R33 solenoid before the end of the week, then get the extra hosing and fittings and install it on the weekend, i'll try to take some pictures and maybe slap something in the DIY section for other R32 owners...

Now on to a QUESTION about the the solder "valve", I'm still running a stock RB20 turbo which looked fine when it was off 2-3 months ago but i don't want to push it past 12psi, with the valve essentially being a bleed it's going to raise the minimum boost I can hold yes? And since i'm already holding 10psi as is, it doesn't seem like i have much wiggle room, only 2psi in fact.

Note: My main reason for installing this atm is to get the car coming on boost quicker not necessarily to run more boost.

So, how small a bleed should i go, how small is too small (i.e. the point when the air trapped between the actuator and solenoid, when it snaps shut, can't escape quick enough causing w'gate creep!) ?

[someonestolecc]

Just noticed this thread and read the whole thing.

What an excellent thread, thanks S-kid and everyone else I'm going to be getting this IEBC thingy and controller as I've wanted to boost up the cefiro for a while now but couldn't afford an EBC.

My question is assuming my car has a retuned ECU tuned for the boost I'm planing to boost it up to, I won't need the fuel adjuster thingy, just get the IEBC and find the SR20 solenoid and ECU pin for injector 1 right?

this is gonna be sweet.

[Sydneykid]

Now on to a QUESTION about the the solder "valve", I'm still running a stock RB20 turbo which looked fine when it was off 2-3 months ago but i don't want to push it past 12psi, with the valve essentially being a bleed it's going to raise the minimum boost I can hold yes? And since i'm already holding 10psi as is, it doesn't seem like i have much wiggle room, only 2psi in fact.

Note: My main reason for installing this atm is to get the car coming on boost quicker not necessarily to run more boost.

So, how small a bleed should i go, how small is too small (i.e. the point when the air trapped between the actuator and solenoid, when it snaps shut, can't escape quick enough causing w'gate creep!) ?

Hi Oosh, the amount of air trapped is tiny and the pressure is quite low by pneumatic standards, so not much of a hole is required. I wouldn't worry how small you go. Increasing the bleed hole size (by enough ot get 2 psi) is not going to improve the boost build much. You still get some pressure at the wastegate actuator, so it will open progressively.

[Sydneykid]

My question is assuming my car has a retuned ECU tuned for the boost I'm planing to boost it up to, I won't need the fuel adjuster thingy, just get the IEBC and find the SR20 solenoid and ECU pin for injector 1 right?

Hi, the DFA would be quite a bit cheaper than a chip upgrade, plus you will already have a hand Controller (for the IEBC). Ultimately the chip upgrade and tuning will give a superior result. But if the budget is tight, you should give it some thought.

[Oosh]

Hi Oosh, the amount of air trapped is tiny and the pressure is quite low by pneumatic standards, so not much of a hole is required.   I wouldn't worry how small you go.   Increasing the bleed hole size (by enough ot get 2 psi) is not going to improve the boost build much.  You still get some pressure at the wastegate actuator, so it will open progressively.

Thanks SK, I think I'll run with a 1mm hole then, one other Q:

To start with I'm just going to bleed it to atmo, but i'd like to plumb it back eventually, is the best strategy the same as BOV plumb-back i.e. after the AFM but before the Compressor?

[Sydneykid]

Thanks SK, I think I'll run with a 1mm hole then, one other Q:

To start with I'm just going to bleed it to atmo, but i'd like to plumb it back eventually, is the best strategy the same as BOV plumb-back i.e. after the AFM but before the Compressor?

Not only is it the best place it is the ONLY place. Before the AFM defeats the purpose, as it would measure the air twice. After the turbo would be under boost so it wouldn't flow.

[coastlife]

Hi Guys

Sydney kid could you post your settings or antone else thats set up an RB25det (just as a starting point) as I have just finished my EBC and fitted it I think I was looking at the % the wrong way around .

100% is less boost and 1% is max yes? I was lowering the figures to stop the boost cut coming on all the time which would have been making it worse.