Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guyz

Finally got my 32 on the road and have noticed that in sum gears it seems to lag.

Now im not to sure whether becoz it was sitting in japan for 5mnths without being driven and when it arrived it had no fuel at all so possible sum shit is blocking the injectors but yeh not running the best

The engine is a stock rb20.. no other visible modifications.

Not sure wat psi its running either..

When you punch 1st and 2nd gear the car seems to respond particularly well.. however when your just crawling and then put ur foot on the gas say when ur in 2nd there is a short wait b4 the car decides to move, same with 3rd gear too

Seems to me like its missing...

Um any suggestions?

Thanks Joe!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61357-r32-laggin-probs/
Share on other sites

Hey guyz

Finally got my 32 on the road and have noticed that in sum gears it seems to lag.

Now im not to sure whether becoz it was sitting in japan for 5mnths without being driven and when it arrived it had no fuel at all so possible sum shit is blocking the injectors but yeh not running the best

The engine is a stock rb20.. no other visible modifications.

Not sure wat psi its running either..

When you punch 1st and 2nd gear the car seems to respond particularly well.. however when your just crawling and then put ur foot on the gas say when ur in 2nd there is a short wait b4 the car decides to move, same with 3rd gear too

Seems to me like its missing...

Um any suggestions?

Thanks Joe!

They don't have much low down torque you need to keep it up in the rev range a bit, between shift changes do you:

* Clutch in, change gear, clutch out, THEN get on the gas,

OR

* Clutch in, change gear, get on the gas and clutch out as the revs are rising?

You need to be doing the latter, after having driven a V6 auto commo for the 3 years prior to getting my skyline it took me a little while to get out of habit of just putting the foot down and expecting something to happen, I'd just put it in to gear then put the foot down and it reacted very sluggishly just as you're describing. But maybe that was just me. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61357-r32-laggin-probs/#findComment-1159275
Share on other sites

Also try the computer reset trick, first go grab a tank full of BP Ultimate (any 98RON will do but i like BP) and take your car home, disconnect the negative from the battery, hold the brake pedal down for a min, then reconnect the battery and take her for a thrash.

This all puts the ECU back in to self learn mode making slight adjustments to ignition.

If you eliminate you shift habits, fuel quality, ECU reset as possible causes the next step is to check the timing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61357-r32-laggin-probs/#findComment-1159335
Share on other sites

i think they are laggy, but not as bad as everyone makes out.....with an exhaust, cam gears and hi flow panel filter it made a world of difference......on and off boost, your not gonna take on a rb25 or rb30 and beat it down low but they go well for that they are.

my 2cents

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61357-r32-laggin-probs/#findComment-1160300
Share on other sites

Now think how fun it would be on the street with a decent turbo trying to make over 200rwkw. :(

You do get used to it and adjust your driving style. :D

Yogi is right.. The ol' RB20DET does go really well with a few mods for what they are. I was impressed with how well mine was.

Once on boost they rev nicely and do go well. Launching is another story. Mine would bog down with anything under 4000-4200rpm on board.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61357-r32-laggin-probs/#findComment-1161259
Share on other sites

mine was a bit like that too and I had, filter,full 3" exhaust, FMIC,1.0Bar boost etc...

I think its just the engines nature man

take it out to the track for the day and have a chance to run around without breaking the law and get used to the car would be my advice. I did everytime I added some mods and it helped

mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61357-r32-laggin-probs/#findComment-1161411
Share on other sites

Throw the exhaust and cat in the bin, get a new system, get a Hybrid FMIC, and throw in a new fuel pump. Combined with a good service with fresh fluids and your pocket will be $2,000 lighter...

The difference will be huge. You will have about 150-160rwkws and a in that state the engine can be flogged repeatedly for years and another 50-80,000kms:)

I wouldnt really bother with a boost controller as you will find you will make around 12-13psi anyway with the breathing mods.

Yeh they can be a little breathless, but ppl, they are a 1400kg 2.0L turbo car. I love ringing the RB20s neck, it feels sporty:) Half the fun of turbo cars is the rush onto boost.:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61357-r32-laggin-probs/#findComment-1161900
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...