Jump to content
SAU Community

Aerial connector

JH32

By JH32,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

JH32 Grand Master

JH32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

you won't believe it .... when I said "it works a treat" ... I found that was only in the garage ;)

as soon as I drove outside the reception was shithouse!

;)

heheh ... how can I make the reception better?

Can I wire a whole new wire from the actual aerial in the glass or is it too hard?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6168-aerial-connector/#findComment-94170
Share on other sites
Guest GR33DyMANGO

Guest GR33DyMANGO

Posted
Posted

... why dont u just put a satelite dish on the roof? im sure that'll 'work a treat.'

all u'd need to do to get to the aerial would be to wire it off the new connector u just made. maybe you could run wire from there to a mobile phone aerial on the outside of your car. that way it'd look good at the same time... well maybe???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6168-aerial-connector/#findComment-94457
Share on other sites
ix9 Grand Master

ix9

Posted
Posted

my car came with a double-din head unit that got great radio recpetion.. after putting in my previous deck, the radio reception is all crackly and has static... so much for being an expensive deck huh?

If you DO find a solution James let me know hey... im in the same boat.. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6168-aerial-connector/#findComment-94478
Share on other sites
JH32 Grand Master

JH32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by Strich9ine

my car came with a double-din head unit that got great radio recpetion.. after putting in my previous deck, the radio reception is all crackly and has static... so much for being an expensive deck huh?

If you DO find a solution James let me know hey... im in the same boat.. :cool:

will do mate.

I'll try playing with the wiring a little :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6168-aerial-connector/#findComment-95227
Share on other sites
JH32 Grand Master

JH32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by riggaP

Does the aerial come up when the radio is turned on??? If I doesnt this is the cause of you problem. You may have to reconnect the other wire which signals the auto aerial... Its the only thing I can think of...

rigga, my car doesnt have an aerial that extends :)

it's just one of those aerials that's in the glass.

the only thing i could think of was that the metal in the garage construction was boosting the signal.

which means the car's aerial is probably shit :cool:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6168-aerial-connector/#findComment-95229
Share on other sites
Henros Enthusiast

Henros

Posted
Posted

JiMiH,

If your aerial plug has two pins, you must have 2 aerials. Skyline factory headunits use a dual diversity system for radio reception. When you wire your new plug, make sure you connect to the extendable main aerial (the thicker of the 2 co-axial wires) and NOT the sub aerial in the glass. The SUB aerial in the glass is no good for FM, which is why you're getting crappy reception. If you don't have an extendable main aerial (either auto or manual), I suggest you install one to improve reception. Also, make sure all connections are nice and secure, preferably soldered.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6168-aerial-connector/#findComment-98146
Share on other sites
adam 32 Grand Master

adam 32

Posted
Posted
why dont u just put a satelite dish on the roof? im sure that'll 'work a treat.'  

hahahhahahahahhahaha good one :)

jimi, youll need to buy a connector (which youve already done) and take it somewhere to get it joined to the wires professionally. the reason your reception is shit, is beacuse youve got shitty contacts from the wire to the outlet. if you want a good result take it to an auto electrician or car audio place, they wont charge more than an hours labour ($50ish max)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6168-aerial-connector/#findComment-100504
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...