Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 376
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

If anyone else wants a battery you have until thursday this week to let me know .

I should have the betteries on friday arvo , you can pick up from saturday on . I will let you know when i have them here .

Jerry, I have a problem with my GTR and this battery. It won't fit as it is too wide (length is fine) for the fabricated alloy battery box. Can you get these batteries in smaller sizes?

Jerry, I have a problem with my GTR and this battery. It won't fit as it is too wide (length is fine) for the fabricated alloy battery box. Can you get these batteries in smaller sizes?

Yes they come in smaller sizes , same as oddysey but i don't recomend you get a small one , it defeats the purporse .

What is the width of your tray ? I don't know your setup ( as it is custom ) but in the r 33's the plastic tray is to small as well , as long as you can mount it in the there and clamp it down its fine . I don't see much use of the plastic tray as they are totaly sealed and will never leak .

Its your call though , just let me know if you want any and how many by tomorrow morning , i have down for 3 .

If you have the battery in the boot on your r32 you should use a sealed battery or a semi sealed with a breather hose going under the car ( just like the 33's and 34 gtrs have from factory ) or there is a risk that you have fumes in the car .

If you are a little handy i'm sure you can wotk something out . If you have the 32 with you when you come to pick up i maybe able to help you .

Anyway i should have the batteries tomorrow arvo , i'll you and others know as soon as i get them .

The batteries are here , those of you that asked i will send a p.m. . Anyone else that wants one let me know and if someone dosn't pick up you can have theirs .

If i dont have any left we can do it again at some future time once i have enough people wanting them .

  • 1 month later...
Id like to get one of these batteries to mount in the boot of the GTR... what do I need to buy to relocate it on top of the battery cost?  

wrxhoon you have a PM :(

If you have a 32 you are going to find a place to mount it , some brackets and about 5 metres of cable to run it to the front for +, just use a small piece from battery terminal to the body for negative .

I replyed to your pm .

postage to melbourn3 would be about $20 .

R33's and r34's that have the battery in the boot dont use a breaker , its your call if you want to use though .

You have to make sure the cable will not be exposed on the car body or get cut on anything sharp .

Ben i have another guy that wants a battery .

Inissane do you want a battery ?

Babia do you want one ?

If you both do thats 4 ,we only need one more .

You say you require a bigger top bracket to fit these in an R33 GTR? Can you supply this bracket or alternatively where would I pick one up?

Also im guessing the factory power and ground connectors just bolt downwards onto these sealed batteries?

My current battery is a aussie spec battery that is too small for the car and simply doesnt last :P

Fellars, I have one of these batteries in my 33. Thanks heaps for that wrxhoon. Just to give you an idea of how it runs.

I've had it in there for about 6 months. Never leaked. Holds charge for a long time without starting the car. I haven't actually tested how long, but i've left it for 2 weeks, and it still started easily.

I've left the headlights on for an hour by accident, and the car still started.

I've listened to the radio for 2-3 hours without any problems.

This battery would have to be the cheapest, and best value battery you can get for that price. If you want name brand, you can fork out 3-400 for an odyssey or an optima. In regards to mounting in the 33, all I needed to buy was a $5 battery bracket from autobarn - I bought the plastic one. works fine. The metal one didn't fit.

The battery terminals are also fine. just take the bolt out from the lead, turn it sideways, and use the bolt that comes with the battery.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...