Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wouldn't take it to TM, a few friends of mine have taken it to TM and each have come back with more problems.

The recent was they didn't do up the rocker cover and oil was spurting everywhere and a pool had formed in the Spark Plug area.

I would possibly try Hornsby Nissan, they service Imports.

Post how you go cause I need one too.

cheers.

Get some time off,,, have a nice drive down to Sydney and get Powerplay to do the job. I work in the Industry and loved their work. You might pay more than some other places but you won't be dis-appointed.

Neil.

took my ceffy down to Bel Garage in strathfield (bit of a drive for you tho) and they did the whole thing for $650 with a full fluid pump out, clean and refill, for things like diff oil, gearbox oil etc. Replaced the engine fan as it had a small crack, replaced water pump, changed the bushings that were worn, replaced all the belts, changed the sparks n checked the coils, did the full diagnostics using the nissan unit and then fixed anythign problematic that it showed.

Not bad service as well... he was quite amused to see a SAU-VIC car in NSW gettin a service tho.

Here is the full list that UAS does.

# Systems Check, reset memory, check all sensors and check for any fault codes.

# Systems cleaner, (pressurized can with long bendy hose inserted in various locations to clean carbon

build up in plenum chamber and tops of valves and ports as well as PCV and throttle body (s)

# Online injection clean.

# New Iridium Spark Plugs.

# Compression test.

# Water Pump.

# Thermostat

# Cam belt

# Drive belts.

# Oil Filter

# Fuel Filter

# Check cam and crank seals for leaks usually OK

# Check cam belt pullies.

# Check electrics, exhaust, suspension. Coolant hoses.

# Gear oil 75w- 90 or if auto trans service extra $100.

# Engine, gearbox and power steering get Uniglide treatment.

# Clutch and brake fluid flushed and bleed.

# Radiator and engine flush.

# Clean and treat battery terminals.

# Clean terminals to injector plugs, ignition coils.

# Spray lubricant on throttle linkages and other.

# Check and adjust water sprayers and additive used

# Lubricate door hinges and strikers, bonnet latch, boot hinges, aerial mast.

# Check and tighten sub frame and suspension and cross member bolts etc.

# Tyre pressures checked and corrected.

# Air filter replaced or if performance filters cleaned and re oiled.

Of that the only things i'd "professionally" need done (or havent been done within the last 10,000km/6mths are:

# Systems Check, reset memory, check all sensors and check for any fault codes.

# Systems cleaner, (pressurized can with long bendy hose inserted in various locations to clean carbon

build up in plenum chamber and tops of valves and ports as well as PCV and throttle body (s)

# Online injection clean.

# Compression test.

# Water Pump.

# Thermostat

# Drive belts.

# Check and tighten sub frame and suspension and cross member bolts etc.

So that's 26 jobs down to 8 (unless you've never had a mechanic touch your car over the past 6-12mths in it's 10yr life which is highly doubtful) of which half are just 'checks' and the other half are straight forward work or 'if required' jobs.

Maybe you should take a closer look (or ring around and find out exactly what they do) then work out what you can do yourself and whatelse actually 'needs' to be done. Then re-ring places and get a quote on just those jobs and I believe the price would atleast halve (or atleast your local john smith mechanic could do).

Just my 1/2 cents worth, Does anyone know if POWERPLAY or UNIQUE AUTOSPORTS is better ? Not many d1ckheads u can trust with an import nowadays.

I haven't had much done at UAS so I can't comment.

But Alastair over at Powerplay does an good and thorough job :( they did my 100000klm service a while back.

BTW I'm not sure but I suspect they will need your car for a full day to to the 100000klm service so Saturday may not be possible?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...