Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i recently had a system installd by GL pro sound

Got put in 2 12"inch rockford fosgates, splits at the front and 2 rockford amps

Now my boot rattles like hell

GL pro sound tell me u cannot get rid of the rattle

Is there any way i can reduce the rattle or eliminate it totally??

Id appreciate the help,

Thanx :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63241-boot-rattle/
Share on other sites

Check your number plate, that usually makes the most noise.

You can sound deaden the under side of your boot lid. Check all screws/bolts are tight. Check the jack and tool kit, they will make some noise!

If your bootlid rattles, try looking for a thicker rubber seal so you almost haveto forceit shut.

They are wrong, there is alot you can do :D

Hope that helps!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63241-boot-rattle/#findComment-1190470
Share on other sites

$110ish for a sheet of quality sound deadening like serenity max.

while you are at it, buy 2 and deaden both doors.

tighten every nut and bolt you can get a screwdriver or spanner onto.

tighten the jack as previously suggested.

if you are superkeen pull the back seats out and replace the parcel tray with mdf.

and if you are superdooper keen install sound deadening under the back seat.

you should have Nissan Skyline R33 Infiniti after all this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63241-boot-rattle/#findComment-1192595
Share on other sites

glps really said you can't do anything to fix the rattles???!!!! surely not. boot rattles are pretty much par for the course with a decent system w/o sound deadening in most cars and i'd imagine most shops are well aware of this.

whats rattling (if is the bootlid) is the frame. get some non-acitic silicone (otherwise it'll corrode) and run a bead between the outer "skin" and the framing. go nuts and do it properly. what you want to achieve is to isolate the two from each other. then you want to cover the whole of your bootlid underside in a good quality sound deadener (g-spot is the one to go with) and re-carpet it.

if you don't want to do it yourself, you should have a chat to marty @ fhrx studios. he's on these forums and based in sydney. shoot him a pm. he's deadened many a japper (inc his own s15) and knows the ins and outs.

d

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63241-boot-rattle/#findComment-1203758
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

GL Pro Sould are pros, i carnt beleive they told you that .. yes as everyone has told you sound deaden everything .. you used to be able to buy this stuff called SOUND OFF professional damping for high performance car audio, you could buy this stuff in brush on and in sheets. You need to do the inside of your rear quarter panels and the boot lid, run some seam sealer in all the seams of the re-enforcements on you boot lid and either brush the deadner on the whold underside of your boot or cut out a sound deadner sheet and glue it on .. i would recomend using the brush on stuff instead of the matting.. its amazing what a difference it makes ..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63241-boot-rattle/#findComment-1269262
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
    • There are guys on Facebook under, Infiniti Owners Australia   https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1Z3RbPqx4k/?mibextid=wwXIfr What Whp are you after and I can help, and join this Q group in the states. https://www.facebook.com/share/g/19A59cN3JR/?mibextid=wwXIfr
×
×
  • Create New...