Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

|PRESA|

dont waste your money on a 1.5k greddy cooler unless you plan to build a dedicated track or drag car and make some real high hp level's, which doesent sound like you will be doing. Since your in Melbourne give race radiators a call in dandenong and you can get very well built custom cooler cores for around $500. The piping and installation will be extra ofcourse. I have a similiar core as this and it work well with over 300rwkw.

The stock cooler does a piss poor efford even with the stock turbo so get rid of that if you plan on getting a highflow turbo.

|PRESA|

dont waste your money on a 1.5k greddy cooler unless you plan to build a dedicated track or drag car and make some real high hp level's, which doesent sound like you will be doing. Since your in Melbourne give race radiators a call in dandenong and you can get very well built custom cooler cores for around $500. The piping and installation will be extra ofcourse. I have a similiar core as this and it work well with over 300rwkw.

The stock cooler does a piss poor efford even with the stock turbo so get rid of that if you plan on getting a highflow turbo.

Your right, but if hes on a budget he can still run 12psi safely on the stock IC.

But for another 700$ might aswell get a FMIC setup localy.

Thanks for the help guys.

The reason I was looking into a Greddy cooler is that I noticed Nengun is selling them for a little over $1k delivered.. Till about march my budget is $1k

I was thinking about getting a PFC althought I would tune it for the stock cooler/turbo, then when I add the fmic and hi-flow I'll need an additional tuning.

Therefore I thought if I bough the minor things 1st then worked my way to the PFC i'd save on the tuning side of things.

I had my car dyno'd a month back and got 163.3rwkw (12psi, stock cooler, stock exhaust) as we kept doing a couple runs after that the power would drop to 159rwkw to 153 rwkw, he then introduced me to the inlet pipe from the cooler and it was dam hot!!! This caused by the cooler, in the tuner's experience he suggested 1st thing to do is get the 3" turbo back exhaust then FMIC.

So far I have the 3" dump/front and cat, stock 2.5" cat back with a muffler (it came with the car) finishing the cat-back won't be a problem, I'm just tossing up between a Greddy FMIC (I rather quality/performance than worry about the price on a locally made) or PFC.

Thanks for the help guys.

The reason I was looking into a Greddy cooler is that I noticed Nengun is selling them for a little over $1k delivered.. Till about march my budget is $1k

I was thinking about getting a PFC althought I would tune it for the stock cooler/turbo, then when I add the fmic and hi-flow I'll need an additional tuning.

Therefore I thought if I bough the minor things 1st then worked my way to the PFC i'd save on the tuning side of things.

I had my car dyno'd a month back and got 163.3rwkw (12psi, stock cooler, stock exhaust) as we kept doing a couple runs after that the power would drop to 159rwkw to 153 rwkw, he then introduced me to the inlet pipe from the cooler and it was dam hot!!! This caused by the cooler, in the tuner's experience he suggested 1st thing to do is get the 3" turbo back exhaust then FMIC.

So far I have the 3" dump/front and cat, stock 2.5" cat back with a muffler (it came with the car) finishing the cat-back won't be a problem, I'm just tossing up between a Greddy FMIC (I rather quality/performance than worry about the price on a locally made) or PFC.

Tell your " tuner " hes a toss head.

Why the heck are you wasting your money on a greddy? get a localy made one. Hi flow and PFC then tune it. Dont tune it with stock turbo , its aw aste

get a full 3" exhaust

...Get the Intercooler once you start boosting past 1K boost....

...FMIC is just cooling the turbo/engine....

The VL's ran 12psi with NO intercooler for 300,000KLMS! ....

 

1k of boost? So thats one kelvin, or 1,000 unit? boost. I guess you mean a bar of boost:)

Yeh FMIC cools the inelt air for the engine, and it important to remember that whilst the std cooler isnt a thing of beauty, it isnt all that bad either. Though I think (my thoughts...it seems you diagree) you are wasting your time and money getting a hi-flowed turbo and paying for the tuning of a Pfc when you are still running a std cooler.

The std cooler will struggle to pull the inlet temps down to anything under 50deg C, so when you tune the PFC you wil not be able to run the sort of ignition the engine could handle of you were running an inlet charge only 1-10 deg C within ambient temps.

Also with being such a compromised IC standard, experience with my old std ID is that whilst your turbo may be cranking out 15 psi you engine will be lucky to see 13 psi, more like 12psi:( So its not just the cooling but also the pressure drop, and if the airflow to the std cooler is oridinary and would have to be improved.

As for Vl turbos runnino no IC for 300,00kms, well sure anything can work, doenst mean it should be done. I can have my car tuned to run on std unleaded with 1.2bar of boost, the car will have jack all ignition and plenty of fuelling and be a pig, but it can be done...in fact i think i could probably do that with my current conservative tune:(

With a good IC your tuner can get much more bang for your buck when tuning the car:) At least talk to your tuner and see what he would charge to re-tuned the engine once it has found an extra 2-3 psi because of new intercooler and also wind a biut more ignition into it as a result of nice cool/dense inlet charges:)

Not saying anyone is wrong, just soem thoughts which havent been raised in this thread...

1k of boost? So thats one kelvin, or 1,000 unit? boost. I guess you mean a bar of boost:)

Yeh FMIC cools the inelt air for the engine, and it important to remember that whilst the std cooler isnt a thing of beauty, it isnt all that bad either. Though I think  (my thoughts...it seems you diagree) you are wasting your time and money getting a hi-flowed turbo and paying for the tuning of a Pfc when you are still running a std cooler.

The std cooler will struggle to pull the inlet temps down to anything under 50deg C, so when you tune the PFC you wil not be able to run the sort of ignition the engine could handle of you were running an inlet charge only 1-10 deg C within ambient temps.  

Also with being such a compromised IC standard, experience with my old std ID is that whilst your turbo may be cranking out 15 psi you engine will be lucky to see 13 psi, more like 12psi:(  So its not just the cooling but also the pressure drop, and if the airflow to the std cooler is oridinary and would have to be improved.

As for Vl turbos runnino no IC for 300,00kms, well sure anything can work, doenst mean it should be done. I can have my car tuned to run on std unleaded with 1.2bar of boost, the car will have jack all ignition and plenty of fuelling and be a pig, but it can be done...in fact i think i could probably do that with my current conservative tune:(

With a good IC your tuner can get much more bang for your buck when tuning the car:)  At least talk to your tuner and see what he would charge to re-tuned the engine once it has found an extra 2-3 psi because of new intercooler and also wind a biut more ignition into it as a result of nice cool/dense inlet charges:)

Not saying anyone is wrong, just soem thoughts which havent been raised in this thread...

Thanks Roy, So I guess your suggesting getting a FMIC first? Before the PFC. Would you suggest a good FMIC as being that of a Greddy ? Which are still reasonably priced compared to HKS or Blitz.

Once the cooler is fitted and cat-back is in, I'll look towards the PFC and turbo setup. My thoughts anyway.

By the way if you look at the "Greddy" link I posted, I was looking towards the Greddy R-SPL cooler retailed at $1044.67 delivered.

Strange but for the V-SPL which is for light modified cars it's more dearer than the R-SPL which is recommended for better cooling of high performance cars etc.

I have plans for my car so the high performance cooler I will grow into.

By the way if you look at the "Greddy" link I posted, I was looking towards the Greddy R-SPL cooler retailed at $1044.67 delivered.

Strange but for the V-SPL which is for light modified cars it's more dearer than the R-SPL which is recommended for better cooling of high performance cars etc.

I have plans for my car so the high performance cooler I will grow into.

Are you really that bloody stupid? DO NOT BLOODY SPEND 1050$ ON A FRIKING INTERCOOLER!

Get a custom one, it will actually flow better if you go 100mm core which is now cheap customly made .

All up maximum 699$

You do not learn, go do whatever you want you also time wasted me that you wanted a short shifter then acted like you sold your car .. remember that?

Great, i reckon this guy will never learn and dont deserve to own a turbo skyline which such low knowledge after 20+ posts of useful info.

YOU DONT NEED SUCH AN EXPENSIVE INTERCOOLER!

Bloody i run no IC with Water Injection :wassup: sometimes..

You dont need a intercooler if your planning to run low boost. but for another 600 odd dollars get yourself a kit custom made pipes and a ebay intercooler for 250$ or so !

Roy, i mean 1 kg/cm2,also this is what japanese gauges read.. people get it confused with Bar :D

good luck. i have had enough of this nonsense...

Wow talk about off the hook.

IMO the hybrid copys are good enuff.My car is reciving 1,some just want a brand name and i can see that,research and development and quality craftsmanship that has been proven time and time again.And the ease of fitment for presa that only comes with a pre fabricated unit.

But im like DoriDori.Why pay sooo much for it when you know that the cheaper option is just as good.get a spray can and jig to spray a logo on it.

My 2 pesos

Wow talk about off the hook.

IMO the hybrid copys are good enuff.My car is reciving 1,some just want a brand name and i can see that,research and development and quality craftsmanship that has been proven time and time again.And the ease of fitment for presa that only comes with a pre fabricated unit.

But im like DoriDori.Why pay sooo much for it when you know that the cheaper option is just as good.get a spray can and jig to spray a logo on it.

My 2 pesos

Are you really that bloody stupid? DO NOT BLOODY SPEND 1050$ ON A FRIKING INTERCOOLER!

Get a custom one, it will actually flow better if you go 100mm core which is now cheap customly made .

All up maximum 699$

You do not learn, go do whatever you want you also time wasted me that you wanted a short shifter then acted like you sold your car .. remember that?

Great, i reckon this guy will never learn and dont deserve to own a turbo skyline which such low knowledge after 20+ posts of useful info.

YOU DONT NEED SUCH AN EXPENSIVE INTERCOOLER!

Bloody i run no IC with Water Injection :wassup:  sometimes..

You dont need a intercooler if your planning to run low boost. but for another 600 odd dollars get yourself a kit custom made pipes and a ebay intercooler for 250$ or so !

Roy, i mean  1 kg/cm2,also this  is what japanese gauges read.. people get it confused with Bar :D

good luck. i have had enough of this nonsense...

You are a fkn dumb c@nt watch how you speak d!ck head, I'm here asking questions about cars.

Firstly I wasn't gonna spend money on your short shifter sh!t when you originally wanted $125 for it then you ask for $130. You got a mouth to be mentioning things like that on this forum. As I said earlier I'll pay money for quality and your short shifter wouldn't be worth a bar of soap. If you got any more issues you have my number feel free to call me!

You insult the forums with your posts, demanding people what they should do, there are two kinds of people on this forum, People who know what they're talking about and people who think they know what they're talking about.

Study your knowledge before you give advice next time.

You are a fkn dumb c@nt watch how you speak d!ck head, I'm here asking questions about cars.  

Firstly I wasn't gonna spend money on your short shifter sh!t when you originally wanted $125 for it then you ask for $130. You got a mouth to be mentioning things like that on this forum. As I said earlier I'll pay money for quality and your short shifter wouldn't be worth a bar of soap. If you got any more issues you have my number feel free to call me!

You insult the forums with your posts, demanding people what they should do, there are two kinds of people on this forum, People who know what they're talking about and people who think they know what they're talking about.

Study your knowledge before you give advice next time.

HA HA HA HA YOUR A TOTAL CLOWN!

Soap for my shifter kits ? No... is it why i sold around 6 of them and got good results ? first of all you never saw the kits.. so zip it.

Quality? what is so bad quality about a hybrid copy? have you ever owned one? or even seen a greddy in real life? I bet you couldve tell the differnce besides the logo.

Atleast im not the one asking q's about what i should do to my car..

HA HA HA HA YOUR A TOTAL CLOWN!

Soap for my shifter kits ? No... is it why i sold around 6 of them and got good results ? first of all you never saw the kits.. so zip it.

Quality? what is so bad quality about a hybrid copy? have you ever owned one? or even seen a greddy in real life? I bet you couldve tell the differnce besides the logo.

Atleast im not the one asking q's about what i should do to my car..

We'll be in contact.

Thanks Roy, So I guess your suggesting getting a FMIC first? Before the PFC. Would you suggest a good FMIC as being that of a Greddy ? Which are still reasonably priced compared to HKS or Blitz.

Once the cooler is fitted and cat-back is in, I'll look towards the PFC and turbo setup. My thoughts anyway.

presa, the greddy IC you are looking at is the sidemount as far as i can see. they have an R-spl core.

this thread is funny.. seriously - if the guy wants to spend money on an intercooler - he is allowed isn't he? People spend $3000 on rims for their car, and yet the engine stays stock :D but that's their business what they've chosen to spend the money on for their car.

Anyhow Pressa, you're best off with both a good intercooler AND a full aftermarket ecu to run your upgraded turbo..

SAFC might work on a larger turbo but you'd really be limiting what you can do with your car for a while, or even the power you are putting. Ultimately you're putting on a larger turbo for more power correct? why limit that? best to wait until you have a little more cash and do it all properly at once. You will save money there too.. one tune, one trip to a garage to get everything fitted, etc.

Running a stock cooler with any larger turbo is probably NOT a good idea. It might work on the street, but do you really want to risk your engine or $1500 nicely highflowed turbo on a hot day or something?

doridori32,

What's you'r problem, | PRESA | is trying to get help with his car here and you'r jibbering on about absolute sh!t. you'r last post is total off topic and no one care's about you'r short shift's so stop talking about them.

| PRESA |

Don't worrie about him, do what you think is best I my self would recommend a front mount cooler to get thoes inlet temps down.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...