Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They have in fact replaced 70% of there staff and are in new premises, and Xspeed have produced alot of top cars in there time, simply look at the number of covers on HPI and Hot4s etc. A number of shops were keen to get Ant on board when SST closed, and he wasn't the one that pulled the plug on the business.

The grand opening of Xspeed is going to be on the 26th of June, come down you may be surprised at how well run the place is:cheers:

Paul

BWHWHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAAHhAHAHAHAHAHA

Hot 4's and HPI are true indicators of how good a work shop is.

Im not saying Ant is no good - not at all. Im just saying that before I recommend a shop - they have to be proven. And if they have turned over all their staff (which would be a great step in the right direction) now only time will tell how good they are. But as far as im concerned they have proven nothing yet.

  • Replies 142
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Dan, where do you take your high performace car to?

I look forward to them proving you wrong;)

Paul

I have no performance car - only a 2002 320i BMW.

Where will I take my next car - NO FARKEN Idea. I have lost faith in all workshops recently. I don't trust any of them.

Dan

Now now Dan lets not be bad mouthing ppl. The rules are, if you cant say something nice u cant say anything at all. Thats why ppl always get reccomended but not badmouthed. Just gotta see who that info is coming from to make a judgement call. Of course I totally agree with what your saying though.

Personally i havent been to x speed in ages but they treated me pretty good 3 years ago.

Now now Dan lets not be bad mouthing ppl.

Boostzor, I don't think dan was bad mouthing anyone. I, on the other hand, have many interesting things to say about this subject as I recently pointed out on antilag (and got subsquently banned). What was it you said teejay, that I wouldn't have the guts to speak my mind on sau? Well, guess what...

Why wouldn't you go where they have one of the best tuners and best engine builders?

Paul, one of the best - WHAT!? -

Boostzor, I don't think dan was bad mouthing anyone. I, on the other hand, have many interesting things to say about this subject as I recently pointed out on antilag (and got subsquently banned). What was it you said teejay, that I wouldn't have the guts to speak my mind on sau? Well, guess what...

Paul, one of the best - WHAT!? -

And heeeere come the moderators!!!

Boostzor, I don't think dan was bad mouthing anyone. I, on the other hand, have many interesting things to say about this subject as I recently pointed out on antilag (and got subsquently banned). What was it you said teejay, that I wouldn't have the guts to speak my mind on sau? Well, guess what...

Paul, one of the best - WHAT!? -

Hey Champ

Can u please explain to me what has happened to your motor....

PM if you want.

Daniel

IMACUL8, no problems dude. A full log of the events that took place will be on my web site soon enough. Lets see fcukers try to pull that down. It's a sad, sad tale, and watching people sing the praises of someone my grandmother could out-engine-build is even sadder.

dan_the_man, no problems :(

Gradenko

I saw your post on anti lag - and if they banned you for that - fark them.

They all speak their mind, and as soon as someone says something they don't agree with - they ban.

Its either free speech for all or for none - not for some and not for others.

Haha, good to see we have stirred up some emotions:D

Let's not compare Anti-lag with SAU, we all know the rules on SAU and the moderators enforce them evenly.

If anyone wants to ask about your personal opinion then having your own website is a great idea, or they can PM you.

Having said that I still stand by all the stuff I have said about Xspeed, and I'm happy to recommend them to anyone:cheers:

Dan, I've had alot of work done by Xspeed, especially early on when I was getting into cars. They have always been very professional and done great work:D When I moved house and closer to SST then they did the majority of my work, but I always recommended Xspeed to others. Now that they have Ant and Fabs both working there then they can provide a heap of extra services to Skyline owners, especially seeing as they will now have there own dyno.

Having said that I still stand by all the stuff I have said about Xspeed, and I'm happy to recommend them to anyone:cheers:

Fair enough. I should probably make clear that I've used Xspeed in the past and have found Hans to be an exceptionally helpful fella, so nothing against them as a company.:(

Too bad he ain't there anymore.

I saw your post on anti lag - and if they banned you for that - fark them.

Werd.

Fair enough. I should probably make clear that I've used Xspeed in the past and have found Hans to be an exceptionally helpful fella, so nothing against them as a company.:/

Too bad he ain't there anymore.

"Hans"?? If u mean Hanson - he is still there... if you mean Jan - he's left... maybe Hans was their Swedish lovechild?? Or maybe you dont even know the names of the tuners your passing judgment on - which can be dangerous when ur playing with people's reputations.

XSpeed are damn fine in my opinion - and even better with the new workshop and crew on board - Im sure every workshop has the odd tale or two or unhappy customer - but Ive been going to Hanson for work for more than 2 years on 2 different cars and they've got my vote. Yet to have work done anywhere else, but since having the Stagea both Ken at Hyperdrive and Jeff at C-Red have also always had more than enough time to offer good advice and information... so I am sure I'll end up on their hoists as well at some stage... especially once the damn daughterboard group buy for the Neo6 works out and Hyperdrive can throw it in the Stag!

:P

Adam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...