Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Paul,

I just read there is a VCT and non-VCT PFC models for the RB25DET. Is this true? If so, how can I tell which mine is (second hand, no box). I don't know the model code right now cos it's at home.

all rb25det models support VCT

Is there a specific Power FC for a R34 GT with an RB20DE normally aspirated engine?

No the ER34 PowerFC assumes you have Rb25DET Neo and associated Neo ancillaries

Will the Power FC for a R34 GT-T work?

No I wouldn't expect so as it will expect Neo 25t, with Neo injectors, coils etc

You would need to look at either using an RB20 Ap Engineeering PowerFC or do an engine swap

Using an Rb20 AP eng is probably just as hard as the rb20de you have probably still has the R34 traction control etc fitted

so its not just a normal rb20de but a half cast between the RB20 and Neo engine setups

hey Paul..just got a question for ya...my car doesn't idle well...it just keeps hunting even when i have selected the R33 AFM and did the learn idle for 30 mins i've actually done this twice....so yeah i donno where my problem is would you be able to shed some light?

Cheers

Chi

bought a PFC for a R33 GTR and plugged it into my R32GTR and it wont start just sits at the apexi logo screen. Now i know this is supposed to happen with incompatible hand controllers but this came from a working skyline? any ideas? need help urgently as the car is sitting at the tuners waiting! THanks heaps

is the PFC combo new or 2nd hand?

if its freezing on the apexi logo the hand controller is the wrong version or its damaged etc

the car probably isnt starting as it needs to be DATA INIT'd and reset to factory defaults like it might have diff injectrs / afms etc

from what i understand the R33/R32 gtr pfc is the same?

but from nenguns compatibility table there is an older version hand controller 415-N001 which on works with R33 GTR? The newer model 415-X001 works with both R33GTR and R32GTR, could this be the issue? i thought since the number is FCC3 it was a version 3 hand controller meaning it would be a newer model?

yeah so you have the older style GTR PFC and the newer style hand controller which is why its freezing at the apexi logo

you need FCC NT hand controller or N001 from nengun's site

32 / 33 GTR PFC is the same, but you need a matching hand controller

if you have PFC RB26 then you need FCC NT or N001

If you have PFC GTR33L then you need FCC 3

so this would have worked in a 33GTR but obviously not in my R32GTR? thanks for the help buddy! ie. could this combination every worked together or was i sold a bullshit combination that never worked?

Edited by c0ris

Hi Paul

Just a quick question, if i want to swap a RB26 engine (either a 32 or 33GTR) to my current R34 GTT which already has a PFC. Do i need another PFC based on the GTR model or can i still use the GTT? Would my a/c or other electrical works with a GTR PFC?

Driftmeister, I have a 98 GTT with a PFC for the original engine (RB26DETT(Neo). I did a swap with a BCNR33 RB26DETT but I kept my same PFC and the original wiring harness for the GTT. My GTT runs ok but with many symptoms here and there. My power steering doesn't work (nothing to do with PFC), no a/c (also nothing to do with PFC). Those two things are just compatibility issues. I just need to buy a new pwr steering pulley and an OEM compressed a/c line for a R33 chassis.

Electrical Problems...

My check engine light stays on but there's no problem...

No TCS..

Oil Temp Guage doesn't work.. compatibility issue... aftermarket sensor will fix that.

Theres a compatibility issue with the injectors. The PFC for a GTT runs on a high impedance system, the RB26 motor for a BCNR33 uses a low impedance system. I lucked out, I ordered some Bosch 444cc Green Top High Impedance injectors from the US (cheap but they sell in set of 8.. I just sold the other 2 to my shop), my tuner has a friend who's a Robotics Professor and he built a converter sensor to change the RB26 system to high impedance.

There were trial and error things that I went thru with my air sensor since I only have that one from the RB25 motor. My tuner had to modify the pfc to read the different air flows. We were trying to go D-Jetro but we still need to work things out to see whats best.

I suggest buying the correct harness and cpu for the RB26 motor if you have the loot to do so... you'll eliminate many headaches.

I'm about to get my Tomei 276 l/hr high flow fuel pump installed this weekend. Were expecting ~400whp, 62whp gain from what it is now. All I have is

Apexi Filters (both are for the GTT haha saving money again)

full custom exhaust

FMIC

SARD Fuel Regulator

Exedy Hyper Multi Plate Twin Clutch

Blitz SBC-iD III

HKS Turbo actuators

and the Tomei fuel pump.

Hope my mistakes shed some light for you!

Driftmeister, I have a 98 GTT with a PFC for the original engine (RB26DETT(Neo). I did a swap with a BCNR33 RB26DETT but I kept my same PFC and the original wiring harness for the GTT. My GTT runs ok but with many symptoms here and there. My power steering doesn't work (nothing to do with PFC), no a/c (also nothing to do with PFC). Those two things are just compatibility issues. I just need to buy a new pwr steering pulley and an OEM compressed a/c line for a R33 chassis.

Electrical Problems...

My check engine light stays on but there's no problem...

No TCS..

Oil Temp Guage doesn't work.. compatibility issue... aftermarket sensor will fix that.

Theres a compatibility issue with the injectors. The PFC for a GTT runs on a high impedance system, the RB26 motor for a BCNR33 uses a low impedance system. I lucked out, I ordered some Bosch 444cc Green Top High Impedance injectors from the US (cheap but they sell in set of 8.. I just sold the other 2 to my shop), my tuner has a friend who's a Robotics Professor and he built a converter sensor to change the RB26 system to high impedance.

There were trial and error things that I went thru with my air sensor since I only have that one from the RB25 motor. My tuner had to modify the pfc to read the different air flows. We were trying to go D-Jetro but we still need to work things out to see whats best.

I suggest buying the correct harness and cpu for the RB26 motor if you have the loot to do so... you'll eliminate many headaches.

I'm about to get my Tomei 276 l/hr high flow fuel pump installed this weekend. Were expecting ~400whp, 62whp gain from what it is now. All I have is

Apexi Filters (both are for the GTT haha saving money again)

full custom exhaust

FMIC

SARD Fuel Regulator

Exedy Hyper Multi Plate Twin Clutch

Blitz SBC-iD III

HKS Turbo actuators

and the Tomei fuel pump.

Hope my mistakes shed some light for you!

Thanks for your prompt feedback bro..appreciate it. I didn't expect to have quite a number of compatibility issue. I thought if i were to go RB26, the best would be to use the complete harness from the 33GTR and get a PFC for the it. I would presume the TCS & A/c wouldn't be working and a/c require a separate switch for it.

Anyway, now i think it's better to just mod the GTT 25 engine which is less headache. Cheers!

  • 3 weeks later...

my r33's exhaust light is on all the time, i couldnt find an answer in ur power fc guide, if its a sensor problem, what should i do if it is? and my check engine light is on a fair bit too, but my knock is under 20. My warning functions r all on too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...