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ok its very easy you need to go settings the RPM you will see i think the top rpm setting is your idle i will try and get pictures and stuff

hey i think i see what your talking about, but in there it says following:

rev limit-6900

F/C A/C 1200

F/C A/C 1300

IDLE A/C 650

IDLE A/C 700

so the idle in neutral rises every time i start or put the clutch in after crusing etc, ( same as an auto when you shift from D into N) to around 1300rpm then settles after bout 10sec to be 1000rpm..eg at traffic lights or just starting it hot , starting it cold it stays shoots to 1400rpm then settles to 1300 til it warms up a bit...

its the hot idle i want to return to 800 or 900, to quieten it down, cause on a fast idle its very loud, booming noise, embarrassing lol when your sitting at the traffic lights etc..

Thanks Paul I was trying to find that

Sliver its a simulate pfc you can use it like a real one

ah ok, i see now, thats pretty good

so this is the problem then, mine is set to idle at the correct idle but its actually idling at 1000rpm, why do you think thats happening?

how long do you drive it, i have to drive mine about 5-10 mins before its warm enough to drop its cold idle

could be a dirty AAC Valve >>DIY to clean it<<

might not be set on the other settings properly

set it up just like the picture if you want a factory rev limit leave that part alone

http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-emulator/menu_1_2_10_1.html

how long do you drive it, i have to drive mine about 5-10 mins before its warm enough to drop its cold idle

could be a dirty AAC Valve >>DIY to clean it<<

might not be set on the other settings properly

set it up just like the picture if you want a factory rev limit leave that part alone

http://www.paulr33.c...u_1_2_10_1.html

ahh the revs come down after bout 5mins, from say 1300 to bout a 1000rpm,

i noticed the fast idle after it was tuned, dont think i had this high idle with the factory computer, thats why i was wondering bout the pwr fc settings, ill go clean the AAC valve tomorrow to rule it out though..

what causes the revs to fly up to 1300 initially though? can that be changed?

eg, driving along, pull up at the traffic lights and clutch in, revs hold on 1300rpm for 5-10sec then die down to 1000rpm, not really necessary for it to do that

it feel like when using an automatic and changing back to neutral..when stood still

not sure certainly sounds weird

my fast idle is only about 1100rpm

yeah it all seems a bit fast, even the cold start, flys flys up to 1500rpm, varies a little though, somtimes lower, maybe those two idling setting of 1300 and 1200 that are on there should be altered to 1000rpm.

hi all

i have a power fc for a 34 gtr, i am looking to hook up a boost controller unit to this...

i believe there is a special loom/spec one for the rb26 (3 pin plug)

i have found one that looks to be minus a few bits and wanted to double check with some one who may have used one b4.

it will need

- 1x solenoid (with hose fitting)

-1x map sensor

-hose and fittings etc etc

now is there 1 or 2 wiring looms?

1 from the power fc unit to the map sensor, and the soleniode hooks into the stock loom.

or is there ment to be 2 wiring looms?

pics on google suggest both :S this is where im LOST!

also what was the serial numbers of the power fc units that had the glitch of ignition?

i recal a -8? -08 or somthing...

cheers boys

  • 2 weeks later...

there is 1 loom but 2 versions of it

there is the 3 pin version and 5 pin version

depending on what powerfc model you have, and which socket you have on the side determines which version to get

on BNR34 from memory it is the 3 pin version

the 3 pin version is actually 3 pins for the map sensor (power, ground and signal)

the other pin is on the main ECU loom and it's the boost solenoid / wastegate solenoid wire

this wire runs to the factory solenoid and you simply re-use that and it re-mates to the AVC-R solneoid (power, ground)

the 5 pin kit is used where the car does not have a factory controlled solenoid

so the 5 pins is 3 for map sensor, 2 for solenoid

Heya i know this has already been discussed but just wondering how much work is in changing a 32 gtr power fc to a 32 gtst if possible? and is it worth it compared to a nistune?

Any help is great thanks :)

how to wire BNR32 PFC into R32 GTST is covered in the PFC FAQ and workshops can even do it for you

read the info or get a workshop to do it for you or buy a legit AP engineering HR32 powerfc

  • 1 month later...

whats the deal with the handcontrollers? i have one that came with a pfc i bought that doesnt work but the handcontroller works fine except when ive tried plugging it into a couple other pfc's (one was the pro one thats in my car now and the other was a regular 33 gtr one) it wont go past the apexi logo. the serial of the pfc it came with is GTR33L 020-1825 and the controller is FCC3 020-18807. im trying to sell it and its a bit hard when i cant get it to work when someone comes round to take it.

cheers.

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