Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I reckon they look the shit ricey or not!! Wouldnt the ones with vents help to serve a purpose??(ie- heat vent for engine bay) aswell as a slight weight reduction?? Anyone got any pics of a gunmetal 33 with a CF bonnett? Im gettin one soon and I wanna see what it might look like :P

What about carbon wings?? Are they an insurance issue?? Are they also deemed ricey or do they actually serve a purpose??

Wanna save 5kg? dump the spare.. done..  cost = free..  

they are mainly rice, but they can look good, esp. on skylines..

Yep i tend 2 disagree too..

Have u felt the weight of a standard R33 bonnet as opposed 2 a cf one? a bit more than 5kg lol

Also i reckon they are more racey looking than rice..just my opinion

As i have a high mounted turbo as well..vents help heaps with cooling etc.

It cracked when somone sat  on it:(

So am i right in saying that carbon boonets are manufactured just like fibreglass bonnets, i mat and resin...am i missing something or isnt the whole point of carbon fibre the weigh:strength advantages from a materials and construction aspect. Do you still get all the strenght properties if things arent vacuum formed and baked etc etc?

yes to make a carbon bonnet is the same as a fibreglass one

strength however has nothing to do with vacum forming just compisits and resin combination

hope that helps

I have a little first hand experience with what a carbon skinned fibreglass bonnet does in an impact. See, my mechanic decided to drive my car after a wheel alignment, even though he had strict instructions not to! Anyway, he didnt clip the bonnet down, and it flipped up and wrapped over the roof! Suprisingly little damage, but it "broke it's back" and splintered a little, so not worth repairing.

Luckily for me, the shop's insurance paid for a fresh one to be moulded from the original, and it was REAL fully bagged carbon! I think it weighed about 5kg all up, and was so strong it didn't need clips. The difference between this and those s##t replica ones from Sydney? is massive! I've seen plenty of those just de-laminate!

So, I don't actually think they're any more dangerous than a alloy/steel bonnet, but the mod plate guy I saw wouldn't "plate" the mod for me.

Not that the car had a cat/filters/or much legal anyway!

Well im a bit disappointed that they are just a fibreglass bonnet, but instead of using fibreglass mat, they use a carbon mat:(

For the price i just paid, the main reason i wanted it was for the vent, even though i didnt like all the shark gill bits and i think the vent is too far back to be most effecient, for the price and finish its a good deal.

Just have to get it painted silver so it doesnt look anything like some of the horrible wannabee drift cars i see on the road:(. Im an Escort Panelvan driver in disguise so dont want too much rice on my car:)

Anyone with experience with carbon fibre parts...i was of the understanding that they need to be vacuum formed with special resins and baked for curing if they are going to enjoy any real strength properties. Perhaps its time to read an article i have laying around again.

Anyway, if i come accross a alloy GTR bonnet at the right price, and i can find a good alloy welder, ill have a go at a custom vented GTR bonnet (Looks at Ronin:))

got my bonnet from customcarbon. has 0% fibreglass, its 2 layers of carbon (wet) with a thin layer of foam between, its vented over turbo & radiator, and weighs between 6-7kg ( I can hold it with 2 fingers). cost me round the $1800 mark.

got a quote from just cars.....down the bottom it said "carbon bonnet not covered"

:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...