Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

if its a 33 you dont need to take the front shaft out at all.

ask markr34gtr for the details, but when mine went on the dyno all he did was bleed the fluid from the in-tank boot for the attezza, and poped the plug from under the dash and ran rwd no probs basically. took maybe 5-10min and no hoist.

How do people dyno a GTR on a 2wd dyno? Do they take the front drive shaft off? If this is the case, wouldn't gear oil spill everywhere?

You don't take the shaft out, you just disconnect it. :boinkcar:

you unplug the 4wd fuses then crack the pressure out of the line that goes to the back of the transfer case.... as r33 and 34 have constant pressure to the transfer case so the 4wd sytstem is preloaded to some extent....

but you will have to bleed the 4wd system when your done on the dyno....

if you dont know how to do it dont risk it just go to a 4wd dyno.....

hope this helps...

Has anyone tried doing what the R33 Service manual says to do (see attached pic).

No. 1 says to unplug the air evac plug under the dash, turn the ignition on and pump the brakes 5 times with 10 seconds of turning the ignition on.

If you've done it right the 4wd light on the dash will flash twice every 1 second....

Might be easier than draining fluid and then bleeding the system when you've finished.

I'm going to try it on my Stagea to see if it works (not sure if it will, I think the ATTESSA is slightly different). I just need to work out which plug to disconnect cause the diagram isn't much help !!

J

OK, just spent the last hour outside having a play.

Looking under the dash I found one plug that had a single black wire going into it and a single yellow (with a stripe) coming out of it - see the attached pic.

I found the plug strapped to another wiring loom, and if the GTR's under dash is the same as the Stagea's, then just follow the hood realise cable and it's sitting right near it (you'll see it in the pic).

I thought it was strange that it was very accessible :rolleyes:

So I pulled the plug apart, started the car and pumped the brakes 5 times within 10 seconds and you wouldn't know it but the 4wd light started flashing twice for every second !!!

I suppose this will be safe to do seems that it's in the R33 service manual. It doesn't say anything about 'do not drive the car like this etc...', but it'll be good to try it out on some dirt or wet grass somewhere to see if only the rears spin.

Anyway, I thought this may help a few people so give it a try.

Anybody want to comment?

J

OK, just spent the last hour outside having a play.

Looking under the dash I found one plug that had a single black wire going into it and a single yellow (with a stripe) coming out of it - see the attached pic.

I found the plug strapped to another wiring loom, and if the GTR's under dash is the same as the Stagea's, then just follow the hood realise cable and it's sitting right near it (you'll see it in the pic).

I thought it was strange that it was very accessible :D

So I pulled the plug apart, started the car and pumped the brakes 5 times within 10 seconds and you wouldn't know it but the 4wd light started flashing twice for every second !!!

I suppose this will be safe to do seems that it's in the R33 service manual.  It doesn't say anything about 'do not drive the car like this etc...', but it'll be good to try it out on some dirt or wet grass somewhere to see if only the rears spin.

Anyway, I thought this may help a few people so give it a try.

Anybody want to comment?

J

Yep that works, only the rears spin, both of them too :D Taking it out to Willowbank 2nite to see which way I get the quicker times, judging by how easy it spins up the wheels I think 4WD will be quicker ;)

Wow, now that is good to hear.

Now I presume if there was some (any) torque going to the front wheels they would spin while up on the hoist and you had the backs spinning with throttle. Even the slightest bit of torque would make the fronts turn.....

Great news :P

J

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...