Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In the end, i am sure that Stagea owners are smart enough that if we REALLY want we could find someone here in Australia to make us all surrounds.

If we were to purchase a surround as a group, there MUST be somewhere local that could just replicate them for us.

The only issue I see with these is that there would be some problems with the finish on the surround being the same as the stereo etc, but in the end, if i was to do a conversion and the only thing left was the surround, i would just drive around with no surround on (i am not THAT fussed)

As for handbrake boot and gear boot, i know people to make these things.

Ian here in melbourne has a manual stagea, he may be kind enough to lend it for a day to get moulded?

On a final note, my nissan dealer seems to be relativly cheap, give me part numbers and ill try and get prices for us all...How about we ask gary himself? Or mercury?

Alex, I have done a bit of work with mouldings manufacturing etc etc, and it is much more expenisve/ tricky than what you think. So I doubt extremely that it would be cost effective to do for a small number (ie < 100 ). That said, if you did end up doing it, I could take my car somewhere for them to look at for you.. :P

Ian

  • Replies 297
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes, i can understand plastic moulds are no cheap, specially to have the finish that it does. However i am thinking more something made of CF with fibreglass reinforcing, and then just gluing on the standard clips taken off the auto cover

I have a friend to do something like this (he is in indo getting married right now) and he can make CF boots for 400$ so i am sure a surround wouldnt be as much as nissan wants.

However, yes, this would be a totally difference finish to the nissan one, but to be honest, i am not one to complain about mismatched colors as long as its mostly functional. The only "difference" i see is the finish on the ash tray would be different to the cover, but this could actually look good...

I have started to buy parts for my manual conversion so i will keep everyone posted with what i do.

Got a R33 GTR gearbox with shifter and transfer case for 800$

Looking around for all the other stuff right now.

Not sure if this has been mentioned, but trade price for the 260RS centre console (shifter surround, cup holders and storage area) comes to about $2000 as all bits are sold seperately, the centre console alone is $900 without anything else.

And thats trade price!

FYI, Just Jap sell brand new late model R33 GTR boxes for $3250ea, the late model ones had stronger synchros.

Nice find, Christian...

So I guess you're keeping the Stagea and doing the conversion - didn't take you long to take down the EOI post in the For Sale section...

Good choice!

Cheers,

Nick T.

  • 2 weeks later...

What did you guys all do about the dash?/ I was driving today and i looked at the dash and thought, what happends to the P N D 3 2 1 on the cluster?

Did you all just leave it there and disc the lights or did you replace the cluster..

What did you guys all do about the dash?/ I was driving today and i looked at the dash and thought, what happends to the P N D 3 2 1 on the cluster?

Did you all just leave it there and disc the lights or did you replace the cluster..

Well mine has the 260R cluster in it, but it still has spots for the P R N, but dont light up at all.

Also in the cluster where the turn lights are, there is 2 inbetween, one is the high beam, but what is the other?

Were all R33 GTR gearboxes Pull type?

Also, is an engine harness something difficult to change, or just a matter of unplugging a lot of things and plugging in the new harness.

For my RS4, would it be fine to use a GTST (more available) harness with ABS, is there any problems with the 4WD?

Thanks,

Alex

  • 4 weeks later...

Quick question,

now that you won't be utilising the wierd Handbrake Release thingy, what are you going to do with it?

Ska? Stagezilla? Anyone else who's already had it done/got to that point?

When Alan (aka Argo on the forums) did the conversion on the car I just bought off him, he left the handle there and it's kinda just hanging there from the shaft that goes into the slot in the dash.

I'm thinking of eventually removing the handle and putting a gauge/turbo timer in the space there, if one will fit (haven't measured it up yet). Any other suggestions?

Cheers,

Nick T.

  • 2 weeks later...
Not sure if this has been mentioned, but trade price for the 260RS centre console (shifter surround, cup holders and storage area) comes to about $2000 as all bits are sold seperately, the centre console alone is $900 without anything else.

And thats trade price!

FYI, Just Jap sell brand new late model R33 GTR boxes for $3250ea, the late model ones had stronger synchros.

Prank you stagea drving poofter. Why don't you join a volvo club cause they arent skylines! there about as much of a skyline as a f**king XC70. Wow skyline running gear f**k you!

  • 1 month later...

I got no idea, but i will be replacing the whole lot.

Unfortuntly, my manual conversion has taken a back seat for brakes and suspension work. BUT, all in good time, probably 3-5 months down the track, the car will be finished. Suspension, brakes, wheels, manual, power... me = :(

BTW, ive decided to keep the car standard looks wise bar the wheels. I am also going to get a DAYZ front bar from JP, but apart from that and probably some DAYZ sideskirts, thats it ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...