Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So an R33 RB25DE 4WD pedal box won't bolt up then? They are a push-type box but I'm thinking it may be the way to go so I don't have to modify the firewall

The other thing I am wondering about is the Brake Booster. They are much bigger on the Stagea compared to the R33 Skyline unit. Does this need to be changed or is there enough room..................actually I might change it anyway, firm up the pedal a bit

Oh & has anyone got pics of the recess job on the firewall?

Edited by tRUkbOY
  • Replies 297
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...7502&hl=booster

heres a thread i made ages ago on it, but i changed my username since i got banned :/

thats got some pics of my booster mounted (for the rb26 engine though) but i'd say the 25 would have more room than the 26 because of the 26's plenum which is mighty close. brake booster is very very very close but just enough room in the end :)

shows some of the pedal mountings further down the page as well.

good luck, and i think page 3 or 4 on this thread shows some pics from user "Argo"

hope it helps

Brad

Edited by CruiseLiner

pics dont seem to work for me.

also i dont see why u cant just use the non-booster one from a series 2 stagea and get the pedal box etc to match the master cylinder length (also the series 2 stagea)

dunno the difference in pedal feel but recessing the booster is a major job and as i've said i wouldnt attempt it with the motor in the car as its sooo tight around the area.

Edited by CruiseLiner

"also i dont see why u cant just use the non-booster one from a series 2 stagea and get the pedal box etc to match the master cylinder length (also the series 2 stagea)"

Thats the only other option Id go for. If the S2 pedals bolt into an S1

"also i dont see why u cant just use the non-booster one from a series 2 stagea and get the pedal box etc to match the master cylinder length (also the series 2 stagea)"

Thats the only other option Id go for. If the S2 pedals bolt into an S1

i seriously doubt the s2 pedal box will "bolt" in simply, the footbrake thing has some weird mounting spots and doesnt match the pedal box at all (going by my pedal box which is the gtr one i think). very simple job to bolt it in but, just weld one tab off one side of the box and make one of the original holes in the box abit bigger and it fits in almost perfectly using the factory bolts from the original footbrake setup.

the pics in that link i said shows u how i mounted the box but they are alittle crammed under the dash to get any decent distant shots.

Ok is it just me or does this look like its not recessed?

http://stagea.st.funpic.org/082105/stagea29.JPG

http://stagea.st.funpic.org/082105/stagea28.JPG

(hope you don't mind this Ska)

Meh they are on teh intarweb for all to see, I am just sorry I couldnt give you the answer to that question :P

Oh and I forgot if I had mentioned this but I do have genuine GTR pedals :)

Not sure if it has been covered before in this thread

Does the gearbox transfer case ratio matter if using a GTR gearbox for the conversion or should a GTS4 box be used?

Does the diff ratio need to be changed?

And also, has it been confirmed what clutch master cylinder a series 2 factory Type S uses

Vacumm or not?

i dont get the questions properly darren, the diff ratios have nothing to do with the manual conversion, and the transfer case doesnt have its own ratio or anything, the gears in the box do though, but the 4.3 diff gears in the stock stageas should be alot better than the gtr 4.11 gears for getting moving and pulling the extra weight.

use a gtr 5 speed and tf case as they are nice and cheap these days at under $1k :O

hope it makes sense :)

Edited by CruiseLiner
i dont get the questions properly darren, the diff ratios have nothing to do with the manual conversion, and the transfer case doesnt have its own ratio or anything, the gears in the box do though, but the 4.3 diff gears in the stock stageas should be alot better than the gtr 4.11 gears for getting moving and pulling the extra weight.

use a gtr 5 speed and tf case as they are nice and cheap these days at under $1k :O

hope it makes sense :)

The question did not really make sense to me either once I wrote it

I was told by someone the other day there maybe issues with using the GTR gearbox

Anyway, I can a GTR R32 box for $500 and GTR R33 for $800 or a R32 GTS4 box

Might aswell get the R32 GTR box then

Thanks for the clear up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...